| HOUSE AND GARDEN 
April, 
1913 
3i7 
Why You Should Grow Small 
Fruits 
(Continued front page 278) 
The canes may be cut back to three or 
four feet high in which case they will be 
sufficiently stiff and strong to support 
themselves. More satisfactory results as 
a general rule, however, will be obtained 
by giving them the support of a tall, stout 
stake to which they should be loosely tied 
with some soft material, or by running a 
wire along each side of the row so that 
they can be supported between them. Or 
they may be planted near a fence where 
room is scarce, and trained against that. 
While most of the cane fruits are very 
hardy and will stand the winters in cold 
climates, the only way to make certain of 
having satisfactory results is to give them 
a mulch of rough material during the mid¬ 
winter months. This is for New York or 
more northern sections. It would seem at 
first that it would be quite a job to cover 
the berry patch six feet deep with leaves 
or hay, but that little task is got around by 
putting the canes to bed by bending them 
over so that they are almost flat on the 
ground and holding them in this position 
by burying their tips with a shovelful of 
earth. Then, just before severe freezing 
weather, the canes may be covered with 
soil, rough litter or hay, held in place by 
a few old boards or stakes. 
The winter mulch should be removed 
in the spring before there is any sign of 
the beginning of growth, otherwise you 
will have trouble. When the canes are 
again tied up to their supports then some 
more pruning will be in order. Black¬ 
berries should be cut back to four or five 
feet for the main stalks and the side 
branches should also be cut back a third 
to a half. The blackberries and the Cuth- 
bert raspberries — one of the finest of the 
reds, should have the side branches cut 
back almost two-thirds of the length, the 
main canes having been cut off to about 
two feet tall the previous summer to en¬ 
courage the growth of the side shoots on 
which the fruit is borne. 
Dewberries are naturally trailing plants 
running along the ground, but in the 
garden it is necessary to give them a sup¬ 
port. This may usually be done by driv¬ 
ing a stout stick near each plant and tack¬ 
ing laths across it at right angles and at 
a distance of a foot or a foot and a half 
from each other. 
You can hardly kill a currant bush once 
it gets firmly established. But unless you 
are willing to give it some attention you 
cannot expect even fairly good fruit. If 
it can be given fairly heavy soil so much 
the better, as plenty of water is an es¬ 
sential. In hot very dry seasons with a 
drouth just before the fruit matures it will 
be very desirable if not absolutely neces¬ 
sary to give the soil a mulching with hay 
or rough manure and if possible an oc¬ 
casional thorough soaking with water. 
This is even more true of the gooseberry 
than’ of the currant. Both of these fruits 
like an open, airy position and should not 
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