HOUSE AND GARDEN 
470 
J 
UNE, 1913 
are, however, very hardy and strong 
of growth, and they flower freely 
during the month of June—so there 
must be an abundance of them in the 
rose garden. The real gems, how¬ 
ever, are the hybrid teas. These are 
the plants that bloom—actually bloom 
— all summer. Although they are 
not so hardy, they do not require 
more protection than will be needed 
for best results with even the hybrid 
perpetual's. And the variety of these 
now is so great that one could really 
make a garden entirely of them, and 
have in it practically every kind and 
color of rose. In addition to these, 
some tea roses should be included. 
Tender though they are, nothing will 
ever take the place of these exquisite 
flowers, with their fine foliage and wonder¬ 
ful odor. My own proportion would always 
he, in a dozen plants, three hybrid perpetuals, 
five hybrid teas, and four teas — and this pro¬ 
portion I should adhere to whether I were 
planting twelve plants or twelve hundred. 
In setting out the plants, put hybrid per¬ 
petuals twenty-four inches apart, hybrid teas 
and teas eighteen inches. Aside from the 
depth at which they are to be set there is no 
difference between planting roses and plant¬ 
ing any ordinary shrub. But the question of 
depth is an important one. Roses, of course, 
are usually not grown on their own roots, 
but are grafted on some other stock. The point of the graft is 
plainly discernible, however, even to the amateur, if the plant is 
examined with the expectation of finding this. This point, on 
plants that have been properly grown, is not more than two or 
three inches above the root. Set such a plant low enough into the 
ground to insure covering this point of union between the stock 
and the graft with at least one inch of soil, or more, up to two 
inches. Possibly, however, you may have purchased roses which 
were not grafted as low as this. If this is the case, and your 
plants show more than three inches of stem above their upper 
roots, there will be no use attempting to cover the stock with 
soil, for in doing this it would be necessary to set the roots them¬ 
selves so far below the surface that 
the plant would die. Do not get such 
specimens if you can avoid it, for 
they are really not worth having. 
Arrange the roots in the hole 
which has been dug for them, care¬ 
fully spreading them about in the 
positions which they occupied orig¬ 
inally, as nearly as possible. Do not 
attempt to plant when the soil is 
very wet. It should sift lightly and 
loosely around the roots and rootlets, 
and should be worked in among them 
by tamping with a round-headed 
stick, while the plant itself is slight¬ 
ly shaken up and down. When the 
hole is nearly filled, pour a little 
water into it gently. Then, when 
this is settled, put on the remainder 
of the earth. When the entire bed is planted 
rake it over to an even, smooth surface. The 
plants, of course, are dormant when this 
work is done, and consequently they do not 
require further watering. 
Their tops should be cut back to about two 
or three stalks of four or five buds. Usually 
it is best to cut branches off just above an 
outstanding bud, rather than one that turns 
to the inside of the plant. This encourages 
open growth. Never mind if the bushes have 
started to grow when they reach you. Cut 
away the shoots ruthlessly and with every 
confidence that new ones will come from 
farther down on the branches. All of this class of roses blossom 
on wood of this year’s growth, consequently the more encourage¬ 
ment such growth receives, the more abundant the flowers. 
As early as it is possible to work the ground in the spring is 
the best time to plant all roses. But hybrid perpetuals may be set 
out late in the fall if it is necessary or desirable to do so. They 
must, of course, be protected if planted then, and are better for 
protection anyway, even when spring planted. 
All roses, whenever planted, will have grown greatly by fall. 
When the leaves have finally gone and the plant is unquestion¬ 
ably dormant and asleep for the winter, cut back this growth to 
(Continued on page 498) 
Upper photograph, Frau Karl Druschki; 
lower, Mrs. Sharmon-Crawford 
a rich pink in color 
