June, 1913 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
5 D 
slightest pinch of soda. Where it is pos¬ 
sible to cook a vegetable by steaming it, 
we avoid boiling in water, and after either 
boiling or steaming there is invariably a 
further process of simmering and season¬ 
ing to be gone through before it is ready 
to serve. 
Spinach is one of those greens which we 
neither boil nor steam, although we cook 
it until tender before dressing it in its 
severest modes. But after it has been 
carefully washed and all stalks that seem 
tough have been discarded there is suf¬ 
ficient moisture left on the leaves to cook 
it, and in a covered vessel, with a handful 
of salt added, it will cook in its own steam 
quite well. After ten minutes you may 
drain and press it, season, and add to it 
butter or gravy, according to any individ¬ 
ual preference you may have. 
When there is no gravy of meat, I do 
not grudge the liberal addition of butter 
which' my cook considers necessary, al¬ 
though sometimes I am compelled to hint 
that it is la mort an beurre. The result is, 
however, delicious, and the pnr.ee appears 
under eggs, or with the braise of veal or 
mutton. Then sometimes we have it 
mixed with cream and egg-yolk, and 
served in cases of fried bread, decorated 
with powdered yolk and the shredded 
white of hard-boiled egg. 
The first early sorrel we use alone in 
the same way, and later in the season a 
few leaves of sorrel are generally added 
to the basket of spinach to give sharpness 
to the flavor thereof. But our best use 
for sorrel, I am persuaded, is that deli¬ 
cious soup we call Potage a la Bonne 
Femme. For this the marmite is half 
filled with water or with onion stock, and 
we put into it when boiling a slice of fine 
white bread, absolutely without crust, and 
cut into dice. In the meantime in another 
pan several fresh spring onions have been 
added to some two or three ounces of 
butter, then a couple of handfuls of sorrel 
leaves, a heart of cabbage lettuce, some 
chives and small herbs, all minced to¬ 
gether, are put into the same pan, and 
covered down to simmer for half an hour. 
After cooking through, these are crushed 
and a little salt and pepper added, then the 
whole is put into the marmite and allowed 
to cook a little longer. Before it is served 
the pot is drawn aside to cool slightly, 
and the beaten yolks of two eggs and a 
little milk or cream are gently stirred in. 
This slightly thickens the soup, and it is 
ready to pour into the tureen and serve 
out with fried bread. 
With sorrel we make also a fluid puree, 
or rather sauce, for eating with veal or 
fowl, and when cold this same sauce goes 
most agreeably with cold fish. 
Lettuce, cos or cabbage, cooked.—One 
of the nicest dishes we can have in sum¬ 
mer is that of lettuces stewed in broth 
and served hot with a garnish of green 
peas or young beans. After being washed 
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