Here sire Answers to Your Questions 
• • • Please Reatl • • • 
The Real Test of a rose is its roots. The root ac¬ 
tion is the motor of the plant. Our Roses, grown by 
skilled growers, are heavily rooted and specially 
prepared to stand up and do well—anywhere— 
even under most unfavorable conditions. A rose 
plant will not bloom profusely unless it has strong, 
vigorous roots. This is what you expect and pay 
for. You get real roots with the “ROSES OF NEW 
CASTLE” and always the kind of plants that do 
well and bloom profusely without any coaxing or 
petting. Our pot-grown rose plants are unsurpassed 
in quality—and the prices are remarkably low. We 
take the risk out of rose planting by growing only 
high grade stock in pots. The best is always the 
cheapest. Don’t be deceived by “loud speakers.” 
Noise and real service seldom go hand-in-hand. 
When to Plant. Plant these famous pot-grown 
“ROSES OF NEW CASTLE” after all danger of 
freezing or heavy frost is past, and any time there¬ 
after that suits you. Don’t overlook this fact that 
these “ROSES OF NEW CASTLE” may be planted 
any time during the growing season—from early 
spring, summer up until freezing weather—be¬ 
cause, being pot-grown, they can be transplanted 
safely whenever it suits you. Dormant plants have 
a short planting season in the early spring and also 
a short life, as we have observed. Our plants are 
pot-grown, the best for the amateur planter. Plant 
them whenever it suits you, after all danger of 
severe frost is past. 
How to Plant. Plant them as a rule, if in beds, 
18 to 24 inches apart. Nothing ironclad about this. 
Plant to suit yourself or your space. Plant closer if 
you want to. Put the plant down well into the soil 
—deeper than they have been grown in the soil 
here. Firm them thoroughly into the soil, leaving 
a slight depression around the plant to hold the 
moisture. After planting pour the water around the 
roots until you are sure that the soil at the bottom 
of the roots is well dampened. Don’t be afraid to 
water them at this period, and when this is done 
don’t water too much afterwards. Roses are like 
corn; they like hot, dry spells and heavy rains. If 
the roots are kept wet all the time the young feed¬ 
ing roots will not develop, so if they dry out now 
and then it will be helpful, and if you must water 
—water them well after such drying periods. Roots 
are developed when the plants are on the dry side 
from time to time. If you have water under pres¬ 
sure, syringe the foliage frequently. It helps to 
maintain health, just as we all find a bath refresh¬ 
ing, as well as healthful. As the plants bloom, cut 
the flowers as they appear, and have the pleasure 
they are intended to give. As you cut them it helps 
to develop more blooming shoots. When the plants 
are growing actively feed them, say every ten days 
to two weeks, lightly of course. Mulching with 
cow manure now will do wonders. 
Winter Protection. Please Read. This writer, 
after a lifetime of observation, has arrived at the 
conclusion that more rose plants are killed from too 
much, misdirected kindness than all other causes 
combined. In my own yard I have Tea Roses, Baby 
Ramblers, Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals. I 
have never protected my plants at all, and have lost 
practically none. I don’t say this is a rule to be fol¬ 
lowed, but I do say this. A large percentage of 
amateur planters, as soon as the first heavy frost 
comes, commence covering their rose plants. This 
is the wrong procedure. Don’t commence protection 
until real freezing weather comes—then put a 
good covering of soil around the plants, then 
leaves, litter, straw; heap plenty of soil up around 
the stalks. Now, here again—is the value of the 
“ROSES OF NEW CASTLE.” Because they are on 
their own roots, the tops may be completely winter 
killed, but they will start again from the roots the 
following spring. Not so with the nursery-grown, 
wild-root rose plants. If their toos are winter kil¬ 
led you have nothing left but a wild root. Our 
roses are therefore more enduring, far more valu¬ 
able, and it is not unusual for them to last a life¬ 
time. Uncover the plants in the early spring, gradu¬ 
ally, just the same as you covered them, so when 
all danger of freezing is over you will have them 
practically uncovered. Now don’t cover too early 
or too much, and don’t let the covering stay on too 
long in the early spring. 
Pruning. When plants fail to mature buds, re¬ 
move a large percentage of the undeveloped buds 
and imperfect blooms. If the bushes are more 
spreading than desired they can be pruned back 
without injury about one-third of their growth in 
early spring, before they foliage out. 
General Information. After planting, if the 
leaves turn yellow and drop off. do not be alarmed. 
Nature thus conserves the vitality of the plant. 
Immediately the plant will throw out new and 
stronger shoots. During the growing season if the 
plants develop diseased foliage that indicates the 
root action is poor and the plant needs nourish¬ 
ment, in the wav of a good plant food. Roses like 
sunshine. Partial shade is not so harmful, but they 
do best in full sunshine. Do not plant too close to 
trees or shrubs. 
We offer rose plants in three sixes— 
strong one year old plants, immense two 
year old plants, still lamer star size plants, 
magnificent specimens. Pot grown, Immense 
roots—All oostpaid. Plant any time, spring, 
summer, fall. Whenever it suits you. 
READ WHAT U. S. COVT. SAYS— In a bulletin issued by Dept, of Agriculture, entitled “ROSES FOR THE 
HOME,” which of course may be relied upon as being impartial, and which is issued for the purpose of help¬ 
ing amateur rose growers—this is what they say in regard to WILDROOT roses, which we do not grow, and 
OWN ROOT roses, which is our specialty, and which we have always claimed are the most satisfactory for 
amateur rose growers: 
“The expert who can constantly watch his plants may be successful with grafted and budded roses, but the 
average grower would do best to use own rooted plants, even though they do not grow so fast. The few 
varieties that succeed only when grafted should not be tried until the grower has become expert in handling 
roses. Climbing roses are grafted less often than hybrid perpetuals, hybrid teas, and teas.” 
PLANT OUR NEW KIND, LIFE-TIME, POT-CROWN ROSES 
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