The beds should be narrow enough to make every rose bush in the bed accessible from a path—four feet is a good width for a double row of plants, or twenty inches for 
a single row. Rectangular beds are probably the most convenient to work in 
The Culture of Roses 
THE PROPER PLACE FOR THE ROSE BED AND HOW TO PREPARE IT—FIGHTING PESTS— 
GRAFTING FOR AMATEURS—QUALITY VERSUS QUANTITY IN BLOSSOMS—BEST VARIETIES 
FI. W. Dunham 
OTHING is more beautiful than a 
rose, and no garden is complete 
without at least a few of them. 
This seemed to me especially true, 
when one glorious morning last 
June I discovered that a particular 
bud I had been carefully watching 
had burst into bloom over night. 
And I think most garden lovers 
feel the same way about roses. 
There seems to he a feeling, 
however, among amateurs that 
only professionals can grow roses 
with any degree of success. And 
while, of course, experience counts 
a great deal in rose-growing, as in 
all other gardening, by carefully following a few general rules 
anyone should meet with at least a fair degree of success. 
The first essential is situation. Choose an airy, yet sheltered, 
spot where the bushes will get plenty of sun — preferably on a 
southern slope, as it is imperative that the rose garden he protected 
from north winds. However, if this is not possible—and a great 
many of us will not be able to find ideal spots—either a house or 
a garden wall makes an excellent protection. Do not use trees 
as a shelter, for the root system of the tree near which the bush 
is would rob it of its food supply. Having found a suitable 
location, the other essentials — drainage and good soil—are more 
easily obtainable. 
It is well to avoid choosing low ground for the roses, as this is 
not so well drained. Late spring frosts present an added danger, 
since they are felt more keenly in low situations. 
There is only a word to say in regard to the size and shape 
the beds shall be. It is advisable to have them .narrow enough to 
make every rosebush in the bed accessible from a path—four feet 
is a good width for a double row of plants, or twenty inches for 
a single row. Rectangular beds are probably the most convenient 
to work in. 
Next comes the preparation of the bed itself. As stated above, 
good, rich soil is most desirable. After marking out the space 
the bed is to occupy, dig the soil out to a depth of about two feet. 
Keep the sod, top soil and sub-soil in separate piles as they are 
taken out. Loosen the door of the bed with a pick, and if the 
ground needs draining, put a layer of stones or cinders on this. 
After thoroughly mixing the best of the sub-soil with a generous 
dressing of well-rotted manure, place it on the cinders or stones. 
The sod comes next, well broken up and mixed with the top soil, 
which has just enough manure to enrich it slightly. Finally, fill 
in the bed with the best of the top soil, unmanured, to bring it 
about three inches above the level of the ground. When the sur¬ 
face of the bed has settled properly it should be about an inch 
below that of the adjoining sod. as it will thus retain the moisture 
from rain better. This preparation of beds should take place 
about three weeks before planting time. 
When making your bed, compose the soil to suit the kind of 
rose you are planning to grow. Hybrid Perpetuals require a 
heavy soil containing some clay. Teas and Hybrid Teas do better 
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