May, 1915 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
333 
the plant is unquestionably dormant and asleep for the winter, 
cut back this growth to about three feet. Then draw the earth 
up around each plant in hills, and fill all the space between these 
hills with manure. Bend the plants down and cover the entire bed, 
plants and all, with straw or loose leaves, covering last of all 
with some branches to anchor these. It is an excellent plan to 
put the straw on somewhat in the form of a thatch to shed water. 
Do not apply, any of this protective material, however, until 
actually cold, freezing weather has arrived. 
The old saying, that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure, is quite true in the case of roses. And if they are kept 
in a healthy, growing condition, they are not likely to be attacked 
by insects, or if attacked, not easily injured. If insects appear, 
apply the proper remedies promptly and vigorously and keep the 
ground stirred about the bushes. As a rule, a strong stream of 
water from a hose applied morning and evening will keep the 
roses free from insects. But if this is not effective insecticides 
must be resorted to. 
The rose bug is at times very troublesome as well as destructive 
to the buds. It can be effectively disposed of by a kerosene 
emulsion made and applied as follows: Shave up one-quarter 
pound of hard laundry soap and dissolve in two quarts of boiling 
water; add one pint of kerosene oil and stir 
briskly for four or five minutes until thoroughly 
mixed. Dilute to twice its bulk with water and 
sprinkle it on the bushes with a spraying syringe 
or a whisk broom. Repeat as often as required 
to keep the plants clear of the bugs. 
About the time the leaves are fairly well de¬ 
veloped there usually appears the rose caterpillar. 
It glues the leaves together to form a shelter arid 
its presence cannot be mistaken. The only effec¬ 
tive remedy is to go over the bushes and remove 
and destroy the leaves inhabited, thereby destroy¬ 
ing the pests. 
Saw-fly larvae and other insects appear at a 
later season than do caterpillars, unless prevented 
by an occasional spraying. If they should, how¬ 
ever, make their appearance, destroy and dis¬ 
pose of them by sprinkling the plants lavishly 
with powdered white hellebore. It is well to 
moisten the 
bushes before ap¬ 
plying the helle¬ 
bore, as the moisture will cause 
it to stick to the foliage. 
Mildew on the plants is best 
cured by an application of sulphur, 
or by spraying with a solution of 
potassium sulphide, 1 ounce to 3 
gallons water. Spray or dust with 
the sulphur two or three times 
at intervals of a week or ten days. 
As with the application of helle¬ 
bore, the bushes should be first 
sprinkled with water if sulphur is 
used. 
There are three classes of gar¬ 
den roses — Hybrid Perpetuals, 
Hybrid Teas and Teas. This 
does not, of course, include mis¬ 
cellaneous and climbing roses, of 
which I will speak later. 
Hybrid Perpetuals are very 
strong of growth, flowering freely 
in June. Hybrid Teas bloom 
all summer; al¬ 
though not so 
hardy as Hybrid 
Perpetuals. Teas 
are much more 
delicate than the 
two former 
classes, but also 
more exquisite, 
both as to frag¬ 
rance, color and 
form, and should 
certainly not be 
omitted from the 
garden. 
The most in¬ 
teresting part of 
planning a rose 
garden is the se¬ 
lection of varie¬ 
ties. And since 
roses are such a 
matter of personal taste, the best way is to make 
your selection from a reliable rose grower’s cata¬ 
logue. I am giving here, under their different 
classifications, a few favorites — tried and true— 
as well as some of the newer varieties you will 
want to include. 
Hybrid Perpetuals: Maman Cochet in crimson, 
red, pink, wdiite and yellow ; Frau Karl Druschki 
— probably the best-known white rose we have; 
General Jacqueminot, dark, velvetv rose — an old 
favorite; Margaret Dickson, a lovely, waxy 
white; Paul Neyron, a bright, shining pink. 
Hybrid Teas: Kaiserin Augusta Victoria —- 
white, very fragrant and continuous flowerer — 
should not be omitted; Etoile de France, velvety 
crimson ; Lady Ashtown, very much like Madame 
Caroline Testout, salmon pink, but blooming 
more freely. 
Teas: Marie Van Houtte, exquisite yellow, 
shading to rose : Wm. R. Smith, ivory white, with 
a trace of pink; Papa Gontier, dark crimson; 
Lady Hillingdon, delicate apricot yellow. 
While climbing roses do not properly belong in the classifica¬ 
tion of garden roses, still there are so many ways in which they 
help to beautify the grounds that it is hardly fair to leave them 
out. The great beauty about them is that they are verv free- 
flowering, hardy, and will grow in any kind of soil and with 
no care. 
In considering rambler roses, it is important to note that they 
demand very little in the way of care and pruning. The reason 
for this is that this class of roses flower on old wood, most freely 
on wood one season old. Therefore spring pruning should be 
confined to cutting back branches that may be broken or in the 
way. The regular pruning should be given just after the flower¬ 
ing season, and at this time the oldest wood should be cut out to 
clear the ground. The other canes need only be headed back 
and trained into pbsition. 
Among the best climbing roses are: Tausendschdn, all colors; 
Dorothy Perkins, pink; Philadelphia Crimson Rambler; and the 
climbing varieties of some of the best garden sorts, such as 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria and White Maman Cochet. 
The hybrid sweet briers, a semi-climbing rose—belong to 
another class. They are especially useful as a tall, informal 
(Continued on page 365) 
The shoot at the side springs from 
root stock and should be re¬ 
moved 
If all but one are pinched off, that 
one will grow to appreciable size 
