Ripen forced bulbs in a cellar window and they will bloom outdoors next year 
Save Potted Bulbs for Garden Bloom 
DO NOT DISCARD BULBS OF HYACINTHS, CROCUS, TULIP OR 
NARCISSUS—RIPEN THEM FOR PLANTING OUTDOORS NEXT FALL 
by I. M. Angell 
E VERY year, in late winter and early spring, many potted 
bulbs are sacrificed for lack of knowledge as to the treat¬ 
ment necessary, after they have finished blooming, in order to 
ensure success in the garden. This is useless squandering of 
valuable material, for very little care and attention will ripen 
these bulbs properly, so that they may be planted in the dooryard 
the following fall and give many seasons of bloom. These facts 
apply especially to the Dutch bulbs, hyacinth, tulip, crocus and 
narcissus, so commonly grown by the florists and used as gifts 
during the cold months. Their blooming season can be lengthened 
by keeping the plants in a cool room, for a hot atmosphere will 
make quick work of them. Instead of throwing them away when 
they have lost their beauty, they should be kept to plant in the 
yard or garden. 
A light cellar window will be a good place for the ripening of 
bulbs that have been forced. They will not need as much water 
as when blooming, but an occasional drink will be necessary, 
so that they may dry out gradually. The leaves will turn yellow 
as the bulbs ripen, but must not be cut off, even though they 
appear unsightly, for the flowers of the coming season will depend 
on the foliage of the past season. On this account the leaves 
must never be either cut or bruised, for they must mature properly 
to give the bulbs their full size and strength. 
When the leaves are entirely dry the bulbs are ready to be 
taken from the pots and stored until October, the best month for 
the outdoor planting of most of our common bulbs. A temperature 
of forty degrees is best for the storing of these bulbs. They 
should not be packed airtight, but somewhere not out of reach of a 
supply of fresh air and yet away from bright light and mice. 
Bulbs require a spot in the garden that is well dug and well 
drained. Very old cow manure is the best fertilizer and even that 
would better not touch the bulbs. If only fresh or coarse manure 
is attainable it would be better to do without, or to use bone meal. 
One method of providing drainage and avoiding contact with the 
manure is to remove six inches of the top soil, thoroughly dig 
and mix the fertilizer, then level off the spot and cover it with 
an inch of sand, set the bulbs upon this and then cover with the 
top soil that has been taken out. As soon as the surface of the 
ground becomes frozen in early winter a covering of four to six 
inches of straw or similar protection will be necessary. This 
must be removed in the early spring before the bulbs send up their 
foliage, or the leaves will be bruised in the handling. 
Plant narcissus bulbs three inches deep and a little more than 
that apart. They will give longer bloom if the bed be in a par¬ 
tially shaded spot. If cut while still in bud, narcissus will open 
perfectly in water and will also carry well if wanted to send away. 
Narcissus bulbs succeed best in a turfy loam, and demand frequent 
watering in the growing season. The beds would be benefited by 
a dressing of manure in the fall. The flowers are of better quality 
if cultivation is not too frequent. 
Bulbs of tulips should be planted about five inches apart and 
the same in depth, in sandy loam that has been dug a foot deep. 
If they are to be used as a formal bed for bloom at the same time, 
care should be taken to set them at an even depth. Delicate 
varieties of tulips will require protection from rain and hot sun. 
A soil that has been well enriched the previous year is especially 
suitable to tulips. They flourish best in an open sunny spot. 
Hyacinths should be planted from the first to the middle of 
October, as it is best that they should make good root growth in 
the fall. Their roots are sometimes over a foot in length, so a 
deeply dug bed will be necessary. When set, the bottoms of the 
bulbs should be six inches below the surface of the soil. 
The quickest way to plant crocus bulbs, or rather corms, is to 
make a trench three inches deep, then set them three inches apart 
in the row. It is better to destroy all bruised and imperfect 
corms for they are liable to be attacked by fungus and may infect 
the others. A soil free from clay is most suitable, and a location 
that is open and sunny. To plant crocus in the lawn cut out a sod, 
set several corms, then replace the sod; this will protect them 
through the winter and in the spring they will bloom and ripen 
their foliage before the lawn is ready for the mower. 
When the bulb bed is made it must not be considered per¬ 
manent, for transplanting, at intervals, will be necessary for the 
welfare of the bulbs. Hyacinths require transplanting every 
year, crocus and narcissus every three or four years; the former 
because the new corms will push too near the surface and the 
latter because the plants will become weak and possibly refuse to 
bloom. Tulips will give better results if transplanted every year. 
The bulbs must be entirely dormant for transplanting. They 
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