HOUSE AND GARDEN 
March, 1910 
103 
out of the box. This will be indicated by the 
appearance of the third and fourth leaves, 
which are usually different from the first or seed-leaves. The 
day before you expect to transplant give the seed-boxes a last 
good watering. 
The job of transplanting is accomplished as follows: 
Prepare your flats as before, only in place of the coal ashes, 
use, if you can obtain it, thoroughly rotted stable manure. (Don’t 
use manure that is at all fresh, as that will heat and kill your 
plants.) Put a layer of about an inch or so in the bottom of the 
box, and pack it down firmly. Fill the box level full with the 
same kind of earth as before. If well decayed manure is not to 
be had, use a handful of bone-meal, thoroughly mixed into the 
dirt, for each flat. 
The young seedlings should be set from one to two inches 
apart each way. The ordinary flat, as described above, should 
hold about one hundred, but, if you can, give them more room, 
and get stockier plants. In taking the 
seedlings out of the box in which they 
have been growing, don’t pull them up. Take the fingers, 
or make a small wooden paddle, and loosen and lift 
them out, keeping the roots unbroken as much as possible. 
Make a small hole with the forefinger in the prepared flat, and 
lower the plant into it, without crowding the roots, with the 
other hand. It should be set in about half-way up the stem. 
Then close the dirt firmly about it with the forefingers and 
thumbs. Properly set, the little plant should stand up firmly, 
with as little packing of the soil about it as possible When 
the flat is filled jar the sides to even the little heaps and hol¬ 
lows which will have been left about and between the plants, 
water thoroughly with a fine sprinkler, and set the box in the 
lightest, warmest place you can give it. If the sun is very 
bright, shade the boxes with a single thickness of newspaper 
(■Continued on page xn) 
In watering the flats cover the soil with burlap 
to prevent washing out the seeds 
How Shall We Wainscot the Walls? 
COMPARATIVE EFFECTS, MERITS, DEFECTS AND COSTS OF BEVELED PANELING, STRIP PANEL¬ 
ING AND WOOD STRIPS OVER PLASTER THAT IS PAINTED OR COVERED WITH A WALL FABRIC 
by Jared Stuyvesant 
Photographs by C. H. Claudy, M. H. Northend and others 
I F the title of this article had been “When Shall We Wainscot 
the Walls?” the text matter might well have begun and 
ended with the answer ‘‘Whenever we can afford it.” 1 have 
tried hard to think of some 
room, downstairs or up, or a 
hall between, that would suf¬ 
fer in effect from the addition 
of suitable wainscoting, but 
not one solitary instance occurs 
to me. Wainscoting seems to 
be the exception among all 
features of interior furnishing 
and decoration, in that it 
alone can be used to the im¬ 
provement of a room of any 
style or type. Even a factor 
of interior furnishing with as 
broad a scope as wall covering, 
does not possess this universal 
fitness. I can picture many 
types of rooms that would be 
better without wall covering; 
and you will agree that, for 
example, a study floored with handmade tiles might be more effec¬ 
tive without a floor covering, even though Oriental rugs were 
available. But take any living-room, bedroom, dining-room or 
hall, whether it be in an Eng¬ 
lish half-timber house, a rough 
summer camp, a Colonial 
homestead or in just an ordi¬ 
nary yellow-dog house; can 
you imagine any one of these 
that could not be made more 
attractive with the addition 
of a suitable type of wain¬ 
scoting? 
Of course, that word “suit¬ 
able” is the crux of the whole 
matter, and also in large part 
the explanation of the eternal 
fitness of the wainscot. You 
would not put an intricately 
paneled, white-enameled 
wainscot in a summer shack 
of battened hemlock boards. 
Neither would you agree for a 
A simple and effective wainscoting of battened oak boards 
