HOUSE AND GARDEN 
June, 1910 
An exceptionally effective and simple clapboard bungalow in a typic¬ 
ally luxuriant California setting 
mill within convenient reach. These are nailed to the outside 
of a common stud frame, horizontally, the width of the “chinks” 
between adjacent slabs being kept fairly narrow by alternating 
the butt ends. If the studding is to be sheathed on the inside 
there need be no attempt to caulk these chinks tightly, but if 
Mr. H. M. Stewart’s bungalow. Liberty, N. Y., cost $1700 in 1904, 
Fred Wesley Wentworth, architect 
no inside finish is planned, the wall can be made reasonably tight 
by putting the slabs on a preliminary outside sheathing of the 
roughest sort of unplaned boards. These, of course, should run 
at right angles to the length of the slabs. Still another method 
of making tight a slab wall was described in House and Garden 
“Cobble Villa,” Belle Terre, L. I., Henry B. Moore, architect and own¬ 
er. The plans are illustrated to the right 
An adobe bungalow at San Marino, Cal., that suggests the Spanish 
Missions. Lester S. Moore, architect 
The dining-porch on the first floor, and the pergola sleeping-porch 
opening from the two main bedrooms, are noteworthy 
for January, 1910, in which instance strips of wire mesh were 
tacked over the hacks of the joints to support a caulking of 
cement-and-hair mortar. The inside of the studding was then 
covered with a slab wainscot of birch with a rough fabric, such 
as burlap, above it. 
Shingles, siding or rough boarding offer no special difficulties 
in construction, and these materials may either be left to weather 
to a silvery gray or stained with one of the readily obtainable 
shingle stains. 
When we come to the matter of the inside finish, there is 
opened up a great field for the expression of individuality. Even 
though the bungalow must be kept down to the bare essentials, 
with no covering at all for 
the stud frame, there is an 
opportunity for avoiding the 
commonplace merely in the 
carefully studied spacing of 
the studs or upright mem¬ 
bers. Do not be content to 
have these appear just as the 
carpenter finds it convenient 
to place them; have them 
symmetrically spaced on 
either side of center open¬ 
ings, with the horizontal 
member forming - the win¬ 
dow-sills carried all the way 
