74 
House & Garden 
These litJlc Handy Andy frames are 11x12^/^". - . 
10 of them cost only $7.50. Price includes glass 
and cast iron corner cleats and bolts. 
This two sash frame is about G feet square. 
Costs $16.34. The 3x6 feet sash each cost sepa¬ 
rately $4.24. Double light same size, each $5.45. 
It’s Cold Frame Time 
Start Your Garden Now 
Send For Booklet 
I his new booklet No. 218 tells you exactly how 
you can, with surprisingly little trouble, have 
a winter garden under glass. One from which 
you can be having vegetables and flowers, 
weeks before seeds are even planted outside. 
It shows you how to get a running start on 
your outdoor flower and vegetable garden ; and 
how to boost it busily after it is started. 
Dame Spring comes late nowadays. The 
use of frames is the only way to defeat her 
exasperating lagginess. They turn garden un¬ 
certainties into certainties. 
'I'he Booklet tells you what, when and how to 
plant. 
Order the sash and frames early. 
Get started. 
Send for the booklet. 
Builders of Greenhouses and Conservatories 
SALES OFFICES 
NEW YORK BOSTON PHILADELPHIA 
42n(l St. Bldg. Tremont Bldg. Widener Bldg. 
CHICAGO ROCHESTER CLEVELAND 
Rookery Bldg. Granite Bldg. Swctland Bldg. 
TORONTO MONTREAL 
Royal Bank Bldg. Transportation Bldg. 
FACTORIES 
Irvington, N. Y. Des Plaines, III. 
St, Catharines, Canada 
Witli a row suoh as this, it’s like harinc a gondlv .sized creenhnuso. 
Junior .Sash .'!4"x.’!.Scost S2.42 aiiiece. Standard Sash 3'x6' 
co.st .$4.24 apiece, nmihle Lisht .J'.xG' cost $.5.45 apiece. Prices 
on different length of frames given in The Booklet. 
BLINDS 
WILSON 
Solve the problem of light and Shade in the Home. Beautiful — ffficient. Keep out the Sun and let in the Air 
Write for illustrated book 
J. G. WILSON CORPORAITON 8 West 40th St., NEW YORK 
Hicks Catalog 
On Your Library Table 
is like having a landscape gardener’s expert 
afivice and an expert nurseryman’s complete 
price list—always ready to consult, always 
free. 
Its 80 large pages are beautifully illustrated 
with 123 photographic views and 109 detailed 
sketches of plans, groupings, methods of plant¬ 
ing and other helpful suggestions. 
HICKS BIG TREES SAVE TEN YEARS 
HICKS NURSERIES Z^rpVon’^os 
Wood in some form is the only exterior treatment which ivould so well 
tie this bunr/aloiu to its site and give it its definitely homelike charm. 
Horizontal clapboards instead of stained shingles might have been used 
Weatherproof Walls for the Timber House 
(Continued fi 
should be formed and applied as in¬ 
dicated at “F" in the same sketch. 
This is known as matched or tongue- 
and-grooved siding. 
The boards should always be laid 
with the tongue up, so as to avoid 
the possibility of water lodging in the 
joints if the latter become wider due 
to shrinkage of the boards. This 
shrinkage is hound to occur. The 
wider the boards, the greater the 
shrinkage in each and the wider will 
become the joint between them. So, 
the best that can be done is to dis¬ 
tribute this inevitable shrinkage over 
a great number of joints. In other 
words, very narrow boards should he 
used. In no case should the hoards 
exceed 4" in width, and it is pre¬ 
ferable that they he even narrower. 
In all cases, both edges of the hoards 
should he painted with lead-and-oil 
before the siding is applied. 
Vertical Boarding 
The forms of wooden siding desig¬ 
nated as vertical boarding are illus¬ 
trated in Sketch 3. At “A” is shown 
the common board-and-batten siding. 
The boards should be set not more 
than yi" apart and, if they do not 
exceed 8" in width, be held in place 
by but one row of nails. Thus the 
boards themselves require no nailing 
at all. If the boards are in excess 
of 8" wide, they should be further 
secured by a single row of nails down 
their centers to avoid warping, but 
no nails should penetrate them else¬ 
where. The battens should be only 
wide enough to avoid the danger of 
the joints becoming uncovered due 
to the shrinka.ge, and consequent 
lessening in width, of both hoards 
■ 0)11 page 72) 
and battens as the sun affects them. 
Glance again at Sketch 3. At “B” 
is shown an uncommon hut improved 
form of vertical board-and-batten 
siding; improved because the hoards 
are lapped, one over the other, be¬ 
neath the battens. It is more costly 
than the other type. But, obviously, 
it is more weather-tight. In this, the 
boards are penetrated and held secure 
at one edge, by the same nails that 
hold the battens in place. 
Quarter-sawed lumber possesses so 
many well-known advantages over 
the ordinary variety that it is need¬ 
less here to catalog them. Surely, 
where cost is not a limiting factor, 
it would be folly not to use quarter- 
sawed lumber for all exterior finish; 
for—to quote an opportune colloquial 
expression—“it stays put.” 
Redwood and cypress are the two 
woods best suited for use as siding. 
Both of them are especially durable 
in damp situations, and both are re¬ 
markably straight of grain and free 
from knots. They are also less sus¬ 
ceptible to warping, shrinking and 
swelling than the remaining woods. 
Redwood possesses a further char¬ 
acteristic that is peculiar to no other 
kind; it has a truly wonderful quality 
of fire-resistance and will catch fire 
only under conditions that would 
speedily reduce other woods to ashes. 
Other than redwood or cv’press, the 
next preferalile woods for exterior 
finish are cedar—either white cedar 
or the red cedar of the West—and 
pine. Of pine, the softer variety is 
the better for use as siding. The so- 
callcd “hard pine” is apt to become 
split in nailing, because of its greater 
brittleness. 
Celebrating the Downfall of Golden Oak 
(Continued 
selves maj^ do either in the direction 
of reproducing the models they have 
left us or in the direction of adapting 
them to our immediate requirements. 
To begin with the nearest past that 
can furnish ns with worthy prece¬ 
dents, we may look at the records of 
good carving left ns by our Colonial 
forefathers who apparently knew 
much better what to do with the 
materials at their command than did 
some of the generations that suc¬ 
ceeded them. Some of the fine 18th 
Century interior carj-ing rivalled in 
beauty of design and finish of execu¬ 
tion the work produced in England 
by the school of wood carvers who 
took their cue from Grinling Gibbon, 
Cibber and their immediate followers. 
A part, indeed, of this decorative 
woodwork in our old American 
houses was brought across the water 
from England, but a much larger 
portion of it—in fact, almost all of 
it—was the work of our own local 
from page 21) , 
artisans, and jealousy for the fair 
reputation of our Colonial craftsmen 
prompts us to point out that their 
handiwork, in most cases, was in no 
respect inferior to the performances 
of their British cousins. In this very 
connection, it is worth remembering 
that the ships’ figure-heads wrought 
by W'illiam Rush, one 18th Century 
American wood carver, when seen in 
British ports elicited such admiration 
that he was on more than one oc¬ 
casion entrusted with carving com¬ 
missions from England. 
The earliest American work, like 
the architectural detail of the fore¬ 
part of the 18th Century, was of 
robust and vigorous proportions and 
is not to be found in any great 
abundance before about 1740. Up to 
that time the amenities of interior 
woodwork consisted mainly of well 
considered mouldings and nicely pro¬ 
portioned panels. Nevertheless, we 
(Continued on page 76) 
