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When Syringas Turn to Lilacs 
(Continued from page 70) 
is plain Syringa vulgaris. Group these 
all together, but with three or four 
at one end separated enough from 
the rest to show masses of green be¬ 
tween them. This will be an abun¬ 
dance of the early flowering white, 
unless you prefer white lilacs to the 
others. In that event, let there be 
two dozen or more of these, and less 
of Syringa vulgaris, the ordinary lilac 
colored form. 
For myself, no lilac is so definitely 
a lilac to my eyes as well as to _my 
nose as this last mentioned, and if I 
could have only one kind I should 
choose it. Therefore, unless some¬ 
one says me nay, of the sixty or there¬ 
abouts remaining for the mass of 
seventy-five, twenty-five at least shall 
be Syringa vulgaris; and the next fif¬ 
teen shall be the low growing Persian 
species, Syringa Persica. This leaves 
twenty to divide between Syringa 
pubescens, S. villosa, S. Pekinensis 
and S. Japonica; and I should have 
ten of the first, about four of the 
next and six of the third. Put Sy¬ 
ringa Japonica off by itself. 
So after all there will be only six 
species and seven kinds in the group 
of seventy-five; Syringa vulgaris and 
Syringa vulgaris alba being of course 
two kinds of a single species. White 
forms of a flower never, in them¬ 
selves, constitute a separate species. 
If it were not for extending the 
season of bloom, I should be quite 
content to confine a planting to Sy¬ 
ringa vulgaris, S. vulgaris alba, S. 
Persica and S', pubescens. These are 
the choicest, and any one of them is 
excellent without the others, either 
as a single specimen where space is at 
a premium, or in hedgerows or 
masses of from fifty to five hundred. 
Fall Planting Best 
My preference is for fall planting 
with all lilacs, just as it is with 
everything else that can be handled at 
that season. Fall is especially suited 
to early blooming things, however, 
for these always suffer and lose a 
year if shifted in the spring when 
they are ready and anxious to bloom. 
But the fact of not being able to plant 
last fall would not prevent my plant¬ 
ing this spring, if the lilacs were for 
some reason or another available 
only at such time. 
All lilacs flower on the wood of 
the previous season’s growth, the 
winter buds containing, as a matter 
of fact, the embryo flowers of spring 
—even as the winter buds of the 
flowering dogwood shield its great 
white bracts. Remembering this, one 
will never be tempted to use the 
pruning knife on a lilac bush in the 
winter—nor indeed later than imme¬ 
diately after the flowering season is 
passed. For pruning postponed means 
almost surely loss of flowers, inas¬ 
much as it is likely to be postponed 
beyond the time of flower-bud forma¬ 
tion ; and when it is finally done, buds 
are sacrificed quite as surely as they 
would have been if the work were 
done in the midst of winter. 
Actually, there is seldom reason for 
pruning a lilac if its flowers are 
picked freely or if the dead flower 
stalks are cut away as soon as they 
grow unsightly. Of course, over¬ 
crowding of branches should not be 
allowed, nor, should the army of 
“suckers” that invariably spring up in 
and about the roots of lilac bushes 
every summer. Remove these as 
they’start, for they are not good for 
the plant and the longer they grow 
the more they take away from its 
vigor. Remove also all weak and 
stringy looking wood, annually. This 
may be done while the bushes are 
bare of leaf, in the winter; because 
at this season it is easier to tell just 
where to cut. The sacrifice of a few 
scraggy blossoms at the tips of weak 
branches, moreover, is not an over¬ 
whelming catastrophe. 
Restoring Good Form 
Everyone is familiar with the tall 
and naked appearance of many old 
and neglected lilac bushes—great bare 
stems rising perhaps 15' into the air, 
with a little tuft of leaves and blos¬ 
soms at the top. With such speci¬ 
mens heroic treatment is necessary. 
Cut them back to within 3' of the 
ground, cutting out at the ground 
the inner branches that crowd and 
rub against the others. Cut out the 
suckers also and keep them cut all 
summer, thus forcing the strength of 
the plant into growth where growth 
ought to take place—that is, along the 
branches you have permitted to re¬ 
main. Thus the proper form will be 
restored and the bush again become 
sightly; and usually the spring fol¬ 
lowing such treatment there will be 
an abundance of bloom. I always 
encourage blossoms, however, by ap¬ 
plications of bone meal dug in around 
the shrub; and if the soil is sour, it 
is well to give lime, for lilacs seem 
to dislike sour soil, and express their 
dislike by refusing to bloom. 
Spray for Scale 
Scale insects sometimes trouble 
lilacs, and there is a borer that makes 
life a burden once in a while. As 
this latter insect is unable to kill off 
plants if they are on their own roots, 
for the very simple reason that such 
plants continually send up new 
sprouts to take the place of those 
dying, the one best remedy for his 
depredations is in not planting 
grafted specimens. Grafting is usu¬ 
ally practiced only with the fancy 
varieties, so there is little likelihood 
of getting grafted plants if one is 
purchasing only the common species 
or varieties. If, however, varieties 
are chosen from among the grafted 
stock, be sure to set them deep into 
the ground and keep the shoots which 
rise from the stock cut away as fast 
as they appear. Eventually the top 
will take root if you do this, and thus 
the plant will become an “own root” 
specimen in spite of itself. 
Scale must be sprayed for, exactly 
as it is on apple or other trees. Con¬ 
sult a good spraying table, if scale 
appears; but unless it prevails on 
other material in a section, it will 
hardly infest the lilacs. 
