78 
House & Garden 
Lighting fixture 
and furnishings 
in perfect 
harmony 
W 
HY shouldn’t your light¬ 
ing fixtures harmonize 
with the decorative 
scheme of your rooms, 
just the same as the rugs 
and hangings? The most 
beautiful room_ is hopelessly 
marred by “misfit” lighting. 
In homes where good taste 
prevails, complete unison is 
established between illumina¬ 
tion and furnishings by 
means of the transformable 
DecoMte and curtain* 
Identical in pattern 
Any piece of transparent fabric may be inserted between the two 
bowls of this unique fixture, producing the effect of delicate color 
etching on frosted glass. 
When you change your furnishings, as the seasons swing around, 
you change the fabric in the Decolite also—lighting and interior 
decorations always in the same motif. We furnish beautiful silk 
patterns, or if you desire, you may use fabric of your own selection 
to exactly match your furnishings. 
Due to its scientific construction most of the rays from the Decolite 
strike the ceiling, which diffuses them broadly throughout the roorn. 
This gives you a superior reading or working light, absolutely devoid 
of glare. 
The Decolite is only one of many Holophane units which mean 
better and more economical lighting for the home. 
If your Dealer cannot supply you write us for Free 
Booklet, “Decolite, the Light of Your Personality,” 
giving helpful suggestions in color. 
HOLOPHANE GLASS CO., Inc. 
MOLOPMAWE ..;:; new YORK CITY 
340 Madison Avenue 
Dept. E-7 
I 
lllllllllillllllllllllllllllll 
ill 
surface. 
I Sub Irri^atirig' 
roots of trees 
with water 
left In pipes 
2'Soft Tile- 
5pray Head Open 
Spray Head Qosed 
Del^l of Sub Irn^Uf^ triage 
RAIN'S ONLY RIVAL 
Sold and 
Installed by 
the plumbing 
Trade 
Everywhere 
A spring shower may be brought over your 
law-n in the hottest summer weather by a simple 
“twist of the wrist.” The BROOKS LAWN SPRINK¬ 
LING SYSTEM keeps the grass a uniform color of velvety 
green. When not in use, it is invisible, and out of the 
way of the lawn mower. All use of hose, and the labor 
required in sprinkling by the old method is eliminated ; 
besides, the lawn is watered evenly, and in a minimum 
time. Shuts off automatically. Write for booklet. 
JOHN A. BROOKS 
2358 Fulton Street, Toledo, Ohio 
How Your Garden Grows This Year 
{Continued from page 76) 
growth. These are all important. 
Naturally, there is some difference 
in the time and the way we cultivate 
to accomplish these results. This is 
a matter of practice and not of 
theory, but there are some guiding 
general principles v'hich even the in¬ 
experienced gardener will find 
helpful to learn. 
Cultivation primarily to remove 
weeds will, so the theorists tell us, 
never be necessary if we attend to 
it as frequently as we ought to to 
keep the soil loosened and stirred up 
and the dust or surface mulch main¬ 
tained. But the garden where the 
gardener does not have to worry 
more about weeds than about either 
of these other things, at least a few 
times during the season, is in my 
experience very rare. 
The weed seedlings will start as 
soon as or sooner than the vegetables 
you have planted. For that reason 
it is well to sow with slow germinat¬ 
ing things, such as onions and car¬ 
rots, and a few seeds of turnips and 
radish, just enough to mark the rows 
quickly. If a seed drill was used, 
this is not so necessary, as the roller 
on the machine will usually leave a 
mark to show plainly where each 
row is located. 
When to Cultivate 
The first cultivation should be 
given just as soon as the rows can 
be seen; if possible within ten days 
after planting. Weeds should never 
be allowed to get as far as the sec¬ 
ond true leaf. I think it would be 
no exaggeration to say that every 
leaf that a weed is allowed to form 
increases the difficulty of destroying 
it about 100%. 
As a general thing you can easily 
get over the soil between the rows 
with a modern wheel hoe before the 
weeds in the rows can be taken out. 
But just as soon as seedlings are big 
enough to be distinguished, the first 
hand weeding—which is the most 
tedious and tiresome of all garden 
operations—should be done and done 
thoroughly. When w'eeding in the 
row, do not make the mistake of pull¬ 
ing out the individual weeds. Use 
a hand weeder, and touch over or 
break up wdth the fingers every 
square inch of surface. By so doing 
you will destroy with every weed 
that is big enough to pull, a dozen 
to a hundred that are just starting; 
and by establishing your dry soil 
mulch between the plants in the row 
as well as between the rows, the sec¬ 
ond crop of weed seeds will be 
stopped and some additional moisture 
saved for the little seedlings. 
When a Vegetable Is a Weed 
A weed is in reality only a plant 
out of place. And when your plants 
stand too thickly in the row all but 
those you want are out of place, and 
are, as far as the others are con¬ 
cerned, weeds. It is just as impor¬ 
tant to thin out your little vegetable 
seedlings and give those remaining 
ample room to develop as it is to 
take out the weeds. Thin all of the 
root crops—beets, turnips, carrots, 
radishes, etc., except onions—as soon 
as you are sure that all the seeds 
are well up. Even a few days’ delay 
will not only make the job a good 
deal more tedious but will mean 
greater injury and a consequent check 
to the plants vvhich you want to save. 
If, inadvertently, the weeds in the 
rows get quite large, you may find 
getting rid of them in a wet season 
a very difficult job. The quickest 
and the best way to do it is to cul¬ 
tivate shallow with a very sharp hoe 
that will cut them off clean, just be¬ 
low the surface. Do this preferably 
on a very hot, bright or windy day. 
If they do not wilt and dry up 
quickly, there is every chance of 
their rooting again just the way that 
cuttings do; and you will find them 
much more difficult to kill than be¬ 
fore, for each little plant will have 
a fibrous bunch of roots instead of a 
single tap root. To prevent this, if 
the plants do not wilt and wither 
by the next day after you have cut 
them off, go over the ground again 
and stir them up; or, if necessary, 
rake over and gather them up with 
a fork and wheelbarrow. 
Saving Soil Moisture and Stimu¬ 
lating Growth 
Cultivating to save soil moisture, 
or to maintain the dust mulch, should 
be given in general about every week 
or ten days, and always immediately 
after every rain. This sounds for¬ 
midable, but isn’t as bad as it seems, 
because this work, if the garden has 
not been allowed to become weedy, 
can be done with the greatest rap¬ 
idity. Light, shallow cultivation 
which will leave the ground loose 
and level is all that is needed, and 
with the wheel hoe one can walk 
right along and still do a good job. 
Cultivation to stimulate plant 
growth is a little more difficult mat¬ 
ter, both in the work to be done and 
judgment as to when it is best to do 
it. As soon as the little plants are 
well started, it will be well to change 
your tactics and give a deep cultiva¬ 
tion which will pulverize and stir the 
soil for some inches in depth and 
loosen it up thoroughly.’ This should 
be repeated during the early stages 
of growth frequently enough to keep 
the soil from getting packed down 
and hard at any time. 
As the plants grow larger and the 
soil between the rows becomes filled 
with roots, more care will have to 
be exercised to see that injury is not 
done by cutting off too many roots. 
This is more likely to occur where 
deep cultivation has been neglected 
during the early stages of growth 
and the roots have been consequently 
grown near the surface. With some 
shallow feeding crops such as corn 
greater care must be exercised than 
with the general run of things. As 
vegetables and flowers rather take 
to a light hilling, this may to some 
extent be substituted for deep culti¬ 
vation in the later stages of growth, 
as it answers the same purpose of 
providing increased available food 
supply for the hungry roots. 
And now a word as to how to cul¬ 
tivate. I have spoken of Pat and his 
hoe. And his hoe is not to be de¬ 
spised. You must have it for some 
jobs—but if your garden is of any 
size, do not think of attempting to 
do the work in it without an up-to- 
date wheel hoe. Procure one of the 
double wheel tyne; this can be used 
both as a double wheel and as a 
single wheel hoe, and you will need 
both kinds for different jobs. 
In cultivating to remove weeds, 
use for the first time either hoes 
with extra high heels or standards 
(they are called Greenland hoes, and 
do not come with the regular wheel 
hoe equipment), or, if your soil is 
free from stones, the disk attach¬ 
ment. Both of these shave very close 
to the row without throwing any soil 
over the little seedlings. For the 
destruction of larger weeds the ordi¬ 
nary hoes, kept sharp, do quick and 
effective work. For weeds in your 
flower garden and in the rows and 
around hills of melons, etc., where a 
{Continued on page 80) 
1 
