236 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
October, 
1914 
Concrete for House and Garden 
The use of concrete is growing every day, as people become 
acquainted with its great adaptability, the artistic forms and 
ornamental effects obtainable with it, and the permanency of 
its structure. Not alone are the house and garage constructed 
of concrete, but in the garden, pergolas, fountains, urns, pools, 
sundials, pedestals and benches are being built of this perma¬ 
nent material. Concrete structures never need repairs or 
replacement; they are as enduring as time. 
PORTLAND 
CEMENT 
is known as the name of good cement. Ask your dealer for 
Universal. It is always uniform, of high quality, strength and 
soundness. The following books are of unusual value to the 
home builder and farmer. 
Concrete for the Farmer - -- -- -- -- -- -- Free 
Small Farm Buildings of Concrete - - - Price 25 cents 
The Concrete House and its Construction - - Price $1.00 
UNIVERSAL PORTLAND CEMENT CO. 
CHICAGO : : PITTSBURGH : : MINNEAPOLIS 
Annual Output 12,000,000 Barrels : Plants at Chicago and Pittsburgh 
Close your shutters 
from the inside 
without having to lean out the window or expose yourself g 
to the weather. With the Mallory Shutter Worker it is ■ 
not even necessary to raise the window. The shutters g 
can be opened, fastened at any angle or closed and g 
locked from the inside with no trouble at all. Write g 
now for FREE illustrated booklet telling all about it. J 
Mallory Manufacturing Co. 
255 Main Street Flemington, N. J, J 
llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllH 
What to Plant This Fall 
(Continued from page 210) 
a gallon spilled around on the surface after 
the planting is done. 
In planting shrubs, trees or perennials 
all broken or injured roots should be cut 
off clean, back to sound wood. After 
planting the tops of shrubs or trees should 
be cut back a third or so, or even more if 
the roots have been pruned severely. 
Cane fruits, grapes and roses should be 
cut back more severely, but not quite so 
much as in spring planting, for the tops 
of the canes will probably winter-kill to 
some extent and have to be cut back again 
in the spring. In all cases the roots should 
be spread out in as near as possible to a 
natural position and fine, rich soil packed 
in carefully about them, firming it thor¬ 
oughly as the hole is filled up. No tree, 
shrub or plant should ever be left in a 
loose or shaky condition : if so, the winter 
winds and freezing and thawing ground 
are pretty sure to end its career. 
As to depth: shrubs and trees should be 
set slightly deeper, two inches or so, than 
the earth-mark on the stems. Perennials 
should be set at about the same depth as 
they had been growing. The sorts hav¬ 
ing crowns should be watched to see that 
no dirt gets over them. The best time for 
planting the shrubs and bulbs is after the 
first hard freeze, but things should be 
ready before it. 
Unless you already have an abundance 
of roses, by all means prepare a bed now. 
If you wait until spring the chances are 
that you will be too busy to attend to it. 
On the other hand, if you have gone to the 
trouble of getting the bed ready you will 
be sure to get the plants in the spring, 
for the work of setting them out will then 
be but a matter of minutes, and roses set 
in April will be flowering in June. More¬ 
over, a bed made now will be in much 
better shape to set plants in than one made 
in the spring; the soil will be settled into 
its permanent place more finely pulverized 
and the manure decomposed and ready to 
give immediate and generous results to 
the growing rootlets. The rose garden 
must be made, first of all, in a well- 
drained spot. It should also be, if possi¬ 
ble, on a somewhat raised situation, where 
the air circulates freely, though it is de¬ 
sirable to have it sheltered somewhat from 
the cold north and northwest winter winds. 
Provided the drainage is good the heavier 
the soil the better. If the bed must be 
made where the soil is light, several can- 
loads of heavy soil should be obtained to 
fill in. Mark out the bed, which should 
not be over four or five feet wide, and 
dig it out to a depth of two feet. Then 
with a pick loosen up thoroughly the soil 
below that, unless it is of a sandy nature. 
Into the excavated bed put some six inches 
of cinders or rough, small stones. Over 
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