HOUSE AND GARDEN 
October, 
1914 
Hardy English Walnut 
No longer an experiment 
in Zero Climates 
Plant an English Walnut orchard this Fall. Make a 
beginning and add to it each season. No bank failures, busi¬ 
ness depressions, nor trust investigations can interfere with this 
source of pleasure and income, for its rock foundation is the 
development of a natural resource. Start with rugged 
acclimated trees, grown under severe climatic conditions, with 
temperature far below zero at times. Conditions that breed 
iron-clad vigor and vitality; and that produce trees 
so hardy, they may be planted in cold climates with 
the same assurance of successful fruiting as Peach trees. 
We believe this is the only northern locality, 
where commercial orchards of English Wal¬ 
nuts may be seen, some of them containing 
hundreds of trees which have been bearing 
regularly for more than twenty years. 
For the lawn or driveway, English Walnut is 
exquisitely beautiful with its smooth light gray 
bark, luxuriant dark green foliage, lofty, symmetrical 
growth. A homeful tree to plant about the home. 
Rochester parks and public streets contain many 
beautiful bearing trees, apparently as hardy as the 
Maples and Elms. At least, thriving under the 
same conditions, and producing annually delicious 
nuts as well as shade. Truly a most delightful com¬ 
bination. 
We have unlimited faith in trees bred and grown 
under these conditions, and are sure that those who plant our 
hardy strains of English Walnuts will be well pleased. 
The picture shows a Mayo English Walnut tree planted 
in 1907, began bearing in 1911. Superior quality, extreme 
hardiness, early bearer, safe to plant. 
Our 1914 Catalog and Planting Guide — - 
Includes Nut Culture, Fruits, Roses, Shrubs, 
Evergreens, etc.. Mailed FREE on Request. 
GLEN BROS., Inc., Glen wood Nursery 
Established 1866. 2266 Main St., Rochester, N. 
Orchards 
Colonial Andirons 
No stamped or spun parts—all 
solid cast and turned by hand. 
Best collection in America. Man¬ 
ufacturers of sundials, candle¬ 
sticks and architectural bronze. 
Colonial Brass Co. 
Middleboro ... Mass. 
For Spring Flowering 
Dreer’s Bulbs 
D ON’T overlook the planting of Spring 
Flowering Bulbs. Order them right away 
— now. The sooner they are planted the 
more roots they will make before the ground 
freezes hard. 
Henry A. Dreer ’NT.Xr.T:"' 
■— 
Dreer’s Autumn Catalogue 
contains a complete list of the very • choicest 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus or Daffodils, 
Crocus, Glory of the Snow,' Freesias, Iris, 
Lilies, Spring Snowflakes, Oxalis, Scillas, 
Snowdrops, and a host of others; all of’which 
are described, and many illustrated. In ad¬ 
dition, the catalogue offers a splendid line of 
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS that can 
be set out this Fall, as well as Palms, Ferns and 
other decorative plants for home adornment. 
In fact, everything worth while that can be 
planted this Autumn 
Let us send vou a copy; free on application. 
In writing to adverti'crs these mention House & Garden 
doors in late spring they are best kept in 
the pots, said the lady; for they seem to 
do better under root confinement, and, of 
course, it makes it much easier to handle 
them if they are never shifted. They need 
tubs, really, like the big pink hydrangeas. 
The Paris daisy goes happily out- and 
indoors, according to season, and is not 
subject to insect or disease of any kind? 
Moreover, it flowers three times—or two 
— during the year, and once it starts stays 
in bloom a long time. They should have 
ten-inch pots. The very finest white is 
what is called anemone flowered—that is, 
it has a tufted center, with longer rays 
behind setting it ofif. And she did say 
that hers were sometimes five inches 
across! The description fits my “Queen 
Alexandra” growing in the garden, but she 
gave as the variety name of her “Mrs. F. 
Sander.” Perhaps they are the same, 
named differently by different growers. 
Mine is lovely, so I shall accept its echo 
rather than importing any new ones. To 
multiply these, she told us to take cuttings 
exactly as of geraniums, in July or 
August, for plants to bloom the next 
winter. And the yellow kind are, of course, 
to be handled just the same as the white. 
I almost have forgotten the feverfew — 
which ought to have gone in with the an¬ 
nuals. Never mind; better late than not 
to get in at all! This can be lifted from 
the garden and potted, and cut down for 
winter indoors; or new plants can be 
started from late sown seed. She advised 
doing both, in order to be sure of having 
all winter bloom of it. It needs eight-inch 
pots, and grows to be about a foot and a 
half high — that is, the kind I have does. 
Whatever else I do, I shall train — or 
try to train — one or two of the heliotropes 
to tree form. She says it is not difficult; 
and if she can do it, I can. Whenever 
the pots get filled with roots, the little 
plants are to be shifted, just as the mig¬ 
nonette. This applies to all of them, 
trained or untrained. But by the time 
they are real grown-ups and are in pots 
or tubs that are sixteen inches across, they 
will never need to be moved again — pro¬ 
viding they are fed and tended so that this 
amount of earth can supply all their needs. 
Training them is simply not allowing any 
side shoots to grow until the main stem 
gets as tall as you want to have your 
“tree.” Of course, it has to be staked, for 
it streaks up pretty fast and does not turn 
woody enough to bear its own weight for 
a long time — if ever. She advises incon¬ 
spicuous round stakes, stained the color of 
its bark. When it gets as tall as de¬ 
sired the top is pinched out of the leader. 
This induces side growth at once; and 
each side shoot is let grow until it is about 
six inches long, when its tip is pinched 
out. This pinching out of the tips of the 
shoots induces still more shoots, and sub¬ 
branching from these; and this is kept up 
until a nicely rounded little head is ar¬ 
rived at — when the trick is done. 
After each set of blossoms have faded 
it must be pruned all over just a little, 
