80 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
O NE of the big steamship lines ply¬ 
ing to the tropics, lias a slogan 
which runs “forty hours from 
frost to flowers.” You can beat that 
by a margin of thirty-nine hours, 
fifty-nine minutes and some odd sec¬ 
onds; because all that you need with 
a U-Bar greenhouse, is just time 
enough to open the door, and in a 
moment you are in a tropical fairy¬ 
land of your own. 
The most remarkable qualities of a 
U-Bar greenhouse, are its marvelous 
lightness and the airy, bubble-like 
sense of grace and beauty, due to its 
unique construction. 
Every curved U-Bar is a unit of 
strength and durability. Its dual 
structure of steel and cypress gives 
the necessary rigidity, without the 
support of cumbrous framing mem¬ 
bers, so that every stray sunbeam 
finds its way inside and gets busy 
at once. 
A U-Bar house will last a life time. 
Send for our Catalog, or send for 
us—or both. 
U-BAR GREENHOUSES^^ 
PIERSON U-BAR CO 
s. ONE MADISON AVE. NEW YORK. 
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Slplfl 
JEHQ 
A House and Garden by H. T. Lindeberg 
Another example of the type of distinctive home which 
it is a delight to read about and of which numerous ex¬ 
amples find their way, in the course of a year, into the 
pages of 
he International 
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iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 
Your All-Year Garden 
(Continued from page 50) 
ditions, let it be that of temperature. 
Better a small, slow grown, stocky 
plant in good health, than a rapid 
growing one which is weak or sickly. 
When your little plants are ready 
for handing over into large quarters, 
don’t delay the operation. The time 
for doing it, in the case of seedlings, 
is as soon as the second or third true 
leaf appears; with cuttings, when the 
newly formed roots are YU' to YU 
long; with bulbs, as soon as they 
have started 1" or so, when you are 
satisfied that they are capable of mak¬ 
ing strong, vigorous plants. The soil 
for all may come out of the same 
pile. 
Good garden soil with which has 
been mixed about an equal quantity 
of compost from an old hotbed will 
make an excellent combination for 
general purposes. There are, of 
course, some plants which have indi¬ 
vidual preferences—geraniums, for 
instance, prefer a rather heavy, com¬ 
pact soil, while begonias prefer a 
lighter one—but these are differences 
which the gardener who grows a 
small number of plants may well 
leave until he has met the more im¬ 
portant details. 
Vegetable plants, if many are 
wanted, are usually transplanted into 
flats. The earlier things such as cab¬ 
bage, beets, lettuce, cauliflower, etc., 
can be transplanted directly from 
these, while tomatoes, peppers and 
such things are better if transplanted 
again from the flats into individual 
pots. If you want but a dozen or so 
plants of each, pots may well be 
used for them. For seedlings 
and cuttings pots are the best to 
use at first. If put into the large 
pots first they will not do so well, be¬ 
sides taking up a great deal more 
space than they require. In potting 
off, see that the little plants are han¬ 
dled as gently as possible and that 
they are not out of the soil longer 
than can he helped. Have soil, pots 
and everything else ready before they 
are removed from where they have 
been growing. Any weak or sickly 
ones should be ruthlessly discarded; 
the chances are that they will prove 
worthless in the end after causing 
you much extra trouble and loss of 
time. Avoid watering and also hot 
sun for several days after potting 
up until growth has been renewed. 
Some of the bulbs will require 3-inch 
or 4-inch pots. It is well to put a 
little manure in the bottom of each ; 
it should be dry and spongy and will 
then serve to help the drainage as 
well as to be fertilizer. A piece of 
broken flower pot, hard coal cinders, 
or something of that kind should be 
placed in the pot bottom, before the 
soil is put in. Be careful that the 
drainage hole is not plugged up. 
In the Frames 
In case one has no greenhouse, the 
work such as that described above 
will have to be performed in the hot¬ 
bed. Early started plants of lettuce, 
beets and, if you have room, cauli¬ 
flower, can be set out in the frames 
now, or extra early melons and rad¬ 
ishes. Carrots in alternate rows in 
the frame will also be ready long be¬ 
fore any sown outdoors. 
From the greenhouse or house re¬ 
move the transplanted flats of vege¬ 
tables, cabbage, lettuce, etc., as soon 
as there is no danger of their being 
frosted with the sash on the frames. 
In the spring, leave the sash off in 
the middle of the day and, as soon 
as the milder nights come, at night. 
The early things have to take some 
chances with light frosts after they 
are set out, but they will come 
through if they have been properly 
hardened first. 
Until you get enough bright, hot 
weather to dry the ground off quickly 
and to keep the plants growing rap¬ 
idly, water only in the morning. As 
the plants require more moisture, 
watering once a day will be none too 
much, and where this seems to be 
insufficient, water at night instead of 
in the morning as less is then lost 
through evaporation. 
Work with Trees and Shrubs 
Outside of the activities described 
above, the most important work is to 
finish up what pruning and spraying 
may remain to be done before the 
sap starts in the trees. After that, 
it is not safe to use the winter or 
dormant sprays which are the most 
effectual for combating such a thing 
as the San Jose scale, for they are 
much stronger than the summer solu¬ 
tions. This is a good time also, to 
scrape old fruit trees. If you have 
no regular tree scraper an ordinary 
hand weeder with a sharp blade will 
do the work. This scraping is to re¬ 
move the old, dead bark which is 
a safe harbor for insects and dis¬ 
ease spores. A neat whitewashing 
afterwards will finish the process of 
sterilization. If you object to the 
conspicuousness of the whiteness, a 
little brown coloring matter can be 
added without injury. All stumps of 
limbs that have been pruned over an 
inch or so in diameter should be 
painted. Be sure, also, to saw every 
branch close up to the trunk or limb 
from which it is growing. A stub 
will always mean a weak spot and 
probably a wound and decay later 
on. 
As to Fertilizers 
The success of your garden de¬ 
pends largely upon the manure and 
fertilizers you make use of. The 
fact that you may have put on a lot 
last year and gotten good results 
does not let you off from furnishing 
a good supply this year. Get as much 
manure as you can ; if enough to make 
a layer 3" thick over all your 
garden, so much the better. If you 
cannot get enough to go all around, 
spread it out and make it go as far 
as it will, supplementing it with a 
high-grade fertilizer. Potash will be 
very scarce and exceedingly high- 
priced this year. Scrape and save 
every bit of wood ashes you can get, 
especially unleached ones from hard 
wood. In addition to the potash they 
contain, these also have considerable 
lime, and their physical action on 
the soil is always beneficial. Nitrate 
of soda, even at the high price at 
which it is selling this spring, will 
pay well if used with good judgment. 
Only a very little should be used at 
a time, especially for top dressing, 
for what the plant cannot take up 
within a short time after it has been 
applied is very largely wasted. By all 
means do not make the mistake of 
deciding that because prices have 
gone up you must use a lower priced 
brand this year. If you must cut 
down the expense, get the higher 
priced kind and use less of it. 
