64 
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HAUGAARD, Architect mechanical bond for the stucco. 
The Clang of the Engines 
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284 FEDERAL STREET, PITTSBURGH, PA. 
23 Factories Throughout the United States. Also at Toronto, Ontario, Canada 
Early Lace-Making in America 
(Continued from page 34) 
an excessive export duty on the ma¬ 
chinery, together with a £500 fine or 
a long term of imprisonment for the 
offender who broke the duty law. 
Despite all this, the important parts 
of the machinery reached our shores, 
hidden, I have read, in tubs of York¬ 
shire butter. 
In a short time, an excellent qual¬ 
ity of net, both black and white, was 
being produced in Ipswich. This net 
own, with more attenuated designs. 
The second illustration shows the 
more open and naturalistic design; in 
both, however, the workmanship is 
excellent. These two pieces were 
wrought by Miss Elizabeth H. Rich¬ 
ards and by Mrs. Stephen Baker in 
the old lace factory on High Street 
as early as 1827. The work is simi¬ 
lar to that done in Ireland under the 
name of Limerick, the same sort be- 
A coverlet woven in 1847, 
of dark blue in a peculiar 
ridged weave 
The chariot ivheels ” or 
‘church ivindoivs,” popular 
before the war 
The Whig Rose pattern in dark blue and 
white, a favorite design with Tennessee 
weavers of the middle of the 19 th Century 
was the foundation or background 
for the second kind of lace, a lace 
produced by darning in the pattern. 
The factory or headquarters for the 
laceworkers was in one of the lovely 
old mansions on High Street; there 
many girls and women spent their 
working days; more, however, did 
the work in their own homes. 
The bobbin or pillow lace was a 
distinctly local industry, but the 
“point net lace” (“point,” because 
the size of the mesh varied according 
to the size of the points on the ma¬ 
chine) or Ipswich lace, as it was 
called, was also done in many neigh¬ 
boring towns. 
Darned Net Lace 
The net was stretched on a large 
frame; the pattern darned in with a 
glass-like thread, and the centers of 
flowers and many other motifs filled 
in with fancy stitches. The first pat¬ 
terns, as you notice in the illustration 
of a piece of the first darned net lace, 
were taken from the bobbin laces, 
they were very good copies too. 
Later they developed a style of their 
ing made in large quantities in Italy, 
and called Sicilian lace. 
Our bobbin lacemakers, with their 
well-trained hands, were at once 
pressed into service on this new 
w'ork, and seemed quite ready to drop 
their pillows for the needle. Large 
quantities of net were darned, and 
today there is hardly an old family 
in Ipswich that cannot show some 
of their ancestors’ work. The net 
adapted itself to a variety of shapes, 
and besides the edges of every known 
width and style, there are exquisite 
caps both for babies and old ladies, 
kerchiefs, collars and cuffs, wed¬ 
ding veils and gowns. A straight 
veil that hung from the brim of the 
hat must have been fashionable, for 
I have been shown several of these. 
The gowns were divided into breadths, 
and even then were a long, tedious 
task. The finishing of a large or¬ 
der was considered ample excuse for 
a village festival, bedspreads were 
hung from the windows, and the 
lacemakers made merry. 
The darned net lace is really lovely,' 
but incomparable in a craftsman’s 
(Continued on page 66) 
