70 
HO USE & GARDEN 
Dreer’s Roses 
For the Garden 
S TRONG, two-year- 
old, pot-grown Rose 
Plants that will 
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Please mention this magazine. 
TJT?\T D V A HD rrD Rose 714-716 Chestnut St. 
1 XU1\ X Ao Specialist Philadelphia, Pa. 
It’s Your Season. 
Spring! 
You who feel the call of Mother Earth—who yearn for 
your own yard and door-step; you who would get into 
your old “duds” and plant roses, digging into the frag¬ 
rant soil with your bare hands—you who are weary of 
apartments, hotels and rent receipts 
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him for Trade Marked Arkansas Soft Pine 
ARKANSAS SOFT PINE BUREAU 
LITTLE ROCK, ARK. 
Answers to Questions on Antiques and Curios 
(Continued from page 68) 
worth about $10. The small deep 
plate which you assume to be mod¬ 
ern is probably of a minor French 
make, and as such would have little 
value to collectors. We would have 
to see the plate before placing a 
value on it. The Staffordshire 
saucer is probably early 19th Cen¬ 
tury, and would be worth possibly 
$ 2 . 
E. V. V.—The; two engravings,, 
“Lady Washington’s Reception,” en¬ 
graved by Ritchie, and “Washington 
Standing on the Steps of Mt. Ver¬ 
non,” would be worth about $10 each. 
The small engraving of Yale Col¬ 
lege would have a market value of 
about $1.00, and that of the Pierce 
Academy, Middleboro, Mass., prac¬ 
tically none, as it would only be of 
interest to a graduate of the acad¬ 
emy or someone associated with it. 
The small sampler, signed and dated 
only with the day of the month, 
would be worth from $5 to $8 in that 
size. The Hepplewhite card table if 
an original would date from 1790, 
and would be worth from $50 to $75, 
depending upon the condition. The 
tall mahogany secretary seems to be 
late Georgian (late 18th Century) 
as well as we can determine from 
the photograph, and will be worth 
from $125 to $150. The mirror if of 
English make would be of the late 
Queen Anne (1715-1727) ; if of 
American make, and a copy of 
this type, it would probably have 
been made about 1790-1800. We 
would have to see the mirror, how¬ 
ever, to actually determine its ori¬ 
gin. Its value would be about $25 
in either case. 
The Best Shrubs for All Places 
(Continued from page 29) 
June. One of these suitably placed at 
the side of the lawn is as lovely a 
thing as you can choose for the su¬ 
burban plot. And it is lovely all the 
year through, for it is of sturdy 
growth, agreeable even when no 
leaves cover its frame. 
The other is the variety of crab 
known as Bechtels, Pyrus Ioensis 
Bechtels, a trim little tree in form, 
but actually no larger than many 
shrubs. Its beauty when in bloom 
is quite beyond words; if pink ram¬ 
bler roses grew on trees and all 
blossomed at once, they would not 
be more delightful. 
Varieties for Natural Massing. 
Shrubs to be massed an natural 
will be of the more spreading type of 
growth than those just mentioned. 
Starting with the viburnums, vari¬ 
eties molle, opulus, prunifolium, len- 
tago and lantana, are all of easy, 
flowing habit and well suited to back¬ 
ground use. The very largest are the 
last two, and plants of these used at 
the back of a mass will not need to 
be nearer together than 4'. Of the 
cornels there are the red branched 
Comits sanguinea, the silky Comits 
sericea, which blooms later than the 
others, Cornus paniculata, which has 
attractive foliage rippling distinctly 
at the margin, and Cornus siberica, 
which is perhaps the brightest red in 
branch of all. Of these the first is 
the largest in growth, ranking pretty 
well up with the two large viburnums. 
Hawthorns should find their way 
into every group, likewise to the edge 
of every group where they will show 
a spot of color now and then against 
the solid mass. Cratcegus carrieri is 
a good variety which holds its leaves 
until late. Its flowers are large and 
turn from their pristine white purity 
to a pink as they mature. Scarlet 
fruits follow them. Old-fashioned 
sweet syringa, which is not syringa 
at all, but Philadelphus, lilac being 
the true syringa, can never be over¬ 
done if one is fond of its fragrance. 
Lilacs are at their best when form¬ 
ing a thicket of just themselves, and 
I do not use them ordinarily amongst 
shrubbery masses. Use as many as 
you can of the ordinary Syringa vul¬ 
garis at the back, Syringa persica 
against this (and, of course, some¬ 
what intermingled) and Syringa josi- 
kcra, which blooms last. Other good 
shrubs are bush honeysuckles, Loni- 
ccra morrowi and Tartarica; spiraeas 
Thunbergii and Van Houttei, the first 
blooming before its leaves are fully 
out and the latter in early June. 
Your All-Year Garden 
(Continued from page 52) 
If wet or cold weather keeps you 
from getting the early stuff out as 
soon as you expected, and the frames, 
consequently, become over-crowded, 
make temporary ones in a sheltered 
place, using old boards, boxes or 
almost anything to keep out the cold 
and wind. These temporary frames 
may need covering at night, but pro¬ 
tection during the day is seldom 
necessary at this time of year. Old 
sash covered with blankets or rugs 
or frames covered with cloth will 
keep off several degrees of frost at 
night and that is all that is necessary. 
Do not, however, forget to water 
the plants in their makeshift quarters. 
They will dry out much more quickly 
from having been moved than they 
would have done before. Loosening 
up the ground in a temporary frame 
and setting the plants tightly in it 
will help somewhat in this respect. 
Roses and Other Hardy Things 
If your rose garden was properly 
protected last autumn, there will be 
no long branches and shoots that 
have whipped around during the 
winter and become broken and beaten 
down onto the soil. If such a con¬ 
dition should exist, however, the first 
thing to do is to go over the bed 
now and give it a preliminary prun¬ 
ing sufficient to make each bush stand 
separately so that you can get at it 
and around it. Do this before you 
disturb the mulch. 
The mulch can be removed from 
hardy beds and borders now, although 
in the case of tenderer things it will 
be well to wait until later on. If a 
manure mulch has been used, simply 
shake out the rougher part of it with 
a fork, leaving the finer parts of it 
to be dug into the bed. If it is a 
straw mulch, remove the straw care¬ 
fully; any of it left around will be 
a nuisance and an eye-sore. Since 
the hardy border furnishes its own 
shade during the summer, it is un¬ 
necessary to keep this mulch for use 
later on as is usually desirable in 
the case of the rose garden. Give 
an early forking up—such roots as 
may be broken or cut now will be 
less injurious to the plant than would 
be the case later on after vigorous 
growth has started. 
A great many borders become over¬ 
crowded after a few years. If you 
have any such that were not newly 
planted last fall, get after them at 
the earliest possible moment. 
