50 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
YOUR ALL-YEAR GARDEN 
The Editor will be glad to answer subscribers’ questions per¬ 
taining to individual problems connected with the gardens and 
grounds. Address House & Garden, 440 Fourth Ave., New York. 
F. F. ROCKWELL 
May in the garden path—a vista edged ivith primulas 
and tulips, patterned with soft sunshine and the shadoios 
of blossoming fruit trees 
M 
Pole Beans and Limas 
Plant the pole beans about the 
time of your first planting of wax 
beans. If you want some extra 
early ones, they may be easily 
started in paper pots. In either 
case, the hills should be thoroughly 
enriched before planting with well- 
rotted manure or organic fertiliz¬ 
ers high in nitrogen. Avoid fresh 
manure, as this may produce a 
tremendous growth of vines but 
mediocre crops. 
Lima beans are the tenderest 
of all, and should be planted last. 
Bush limas should be carefully 
planted, eye down, in well pre¬ 
pared soil; they rot very easily 
and great care should be taken 
to put them in after the soil has 
well dried out after a rain, and 
when there is little prospect of 
another storm within two or three 
days. In starting pole limas, it 
pays to use paper pots or dirt 
bands, as then conditions at the 
critical time of germination can 
be kept under control and they 
may be started a 
couple o f weeks 
earlier than if they 
were planted out¬ 
doors. Prepare the 
hills in advance, 
and set in the 
poles before trans¬ 
planting outdoors. 
Do not leave more 
than two or three 
plants in an ordi¬ 
nary hill of pole 
beans or early 
litrus, and three of 
vigorous growing 
late limas are 
ample. While poles 
The individual frame is the thing for outdoor 
forcing and protection of vegetables like musk- 
melons and squash 
Paper pots are valuable for starting many 
seeds, and they are very inexpensive 
T HE vegetables to be planted 
late—from the end of April 
to the first part of June—cover 
several different types and vary 
so in their requirements that it is 
not feasible to give any "blanket” 
directions for planting them. 1 
shall, therefore, take up each class 
by itself. 
Of the dwarf beans there are 
two general types, the early 
“snap” beans, and tbe wax beans. 
As a class the former are inferior 
in quality and it is advisable to 
plant only enough of them to 
yield the garden’s early supply. 
In normal seasons it is not safe 
to plant beans until about the 
middle of May, but in the home 
garden it always pays to risk jm 
early planting a week or ten days 
sooner. A light mulch which can 
now be removed from other 
things may be kept where it will 
be available and put on the young 
beans if an unexpected late frost 
threatens. In a larger way,. 1 
have protected them by hilling 
them up when they were several 
inches high and covering them 
with soil, and, after the danger 
was past, going over them with a 
wooden lawn rake and shaking 
most of it off again. 
Make the first planting in a 
light soil and in as protected a 
place as you have, covering the 
seeds not more than 1" deep. If 
you have sand or humus avail¬ 
able, some of this run along the 
drill before the seeds are dropped 
in will be an extra protection 
against their rotting in the soil. 
Stringless Green Pod and Boun¬ 
tiful are good early sorts. 
are ordinarily used, a trellis or a 
support made of laths and two 
uprights gives a bigger surface, 
and the crop will be bigger and 
can be more easily gathered. 
Beets and Corn 
A second planting of beets 
should be made along with the 
tenderer vegetables, for a mid¬ 
summer supply. Either Crimson 
Globe or Detroit Dark Red is ex¬ 
cellent for this planting. These 
should be planted deeper than the 
first spring plantings, but do not 
put in too many; those for the 
winter supply will be better if they 
are planted a month or so later. 
This also applies to carrots. 
The best way I know to get 
good corn early, is to start Golden 
Bantam in small paper pots; four 
seeds to a pot will be sufficient, as 
practically every one will grow 
and live when transplanted. If 
you plant them two weeks before 
it is time to set them out of doors, 
you will gain more than t^vo 
weeks in time, because they grow 
so much more rapidly in the 
frame. Of course, they should be 
carefully hardened off before set¬ 
ting out. Corn for succession 
should be planted every week or 
ten days, or an early, medium and 
late variety may be put in at the 
same time in May and again in 
June, with a third planting of an 
early sort early in July. 
Lettuce and Large Fruit Veg¬ 
etables 
For a continuous supply of 
cucumbers, make three plantings, 
first in paper pots, at the same 
time you plant your early corn, 
and a few hills outdoors later and 
again in early July. 
Sturdy, strong potted egg-plants 
and peppers should be set out in 
hills made very rich. Put them 
where they can be watered abun¬ 
dantly and, above all, protect the 
egg-plants from the striped po¬ 
tato beetle which is likely to at¬ 
tack them within a few hours 
after they are planted. 
All-season Salamander, Brittle 
Ice and New York lettuce planted 
now will last through the hot 
weather. A good plan is to mix 
the seed with moist humus and, if 
the soil is dry, water or irrigate 
the rows thoroughly some hours 
before planting. Open up small 
drills, and sow the seed and 
humus together in these, tamping 
it down very lightly with a nar- 
row-bladed hoe. 
For surest and earliest results, 
melons also should be started in 
paper pots. Before planting out¬ 
doors, soak part of your seed for 
twenty-four hours in lukewarm 
water. Roll this in dry dust until 
the seed will not stick together 
and then mix it with seed that has 
not been soaked. Plant in well- 
enriched and carefully prepared 
hills, covering some of the seeds 
very lightly, not more than yi" 
and others about 1" deep. Cover 
the hills with mechanical protec¬ 
tors or scatter well with tobacco 
dust as soon as they are planted. 
Another planting of two or 
three varieties of peas for succes¬ 
sion should be made now. Plant 
(Continued on page 70) 
