60 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
Make These Bnamolin Tests 
1st for whiteness— 
Send for the “Famous Brushful.” Spread 
a few drops of Enamolin on any white wood¬ 
work in your home. Enamolin will posi¬ 
tively make a white spot on your white 
woodwork. 
2nd for wearing qualities— 
Wash Enamolin with soap and water, Sa- 
polio or Pearline. You cannot injure its 
wonderful porcelain-like surface. 
3rd for economy— 
Apply Enamolin over any wood, iron or 
cement surface. You will be amazed at its 
remarkable spreading qualities—over six 
hundred feet to the gallon. 
Prove that if you want to refinish a 
room, the exterior of a house, a boat— 
in a word, any surface requiring abso¬ 
lute whiteness and enduring wear- 
Enamolin is the finish perfectly adapted 
to your needs. 
Send for These: 
We have a mighty interesting 
little book, “The White Spot,” 
which we will gladly send on 
request, together with sample 
panel and our sample can, “ The 
Famous Brush ful.” Address 
Home Dept. 
The Floor Finish worthy 
of use in the same room 
with Enamolin is— 
FLOOR 
SMIL CALMAli&CQ. 
ESTABLISHED IN 1850 
lOOWyiiam St. NewYork 
__lJ. _'• ■ ..v. J 
Hwa Wang—King of Flowers 
(Continued from page 58) 
acter of bulbs to the extent of form¬ 
ing the growth of summer a year in 
advance. Moreover they begin to 
grow so early in the spring that it is 
practically impossible to handle them 
without injuring the eyes or shoots. 
Planted in the autumn, after the 
ripened foliage has signified that the 
plant’s work for that season is done, 
they resume growth in the spring 
very much as bulbs do, without 
minding the change in the least. 
Be very careful not to get them 
too deep into the ground. Two 
inches of earth over the topmost 
eyes is enough. Deeper planting is 
very often the reason for scarcity of 
bloom, sometimes complained of with 
perfectly healthy and vigorous 
plants. This is a point, therefore, 
that one cannot be too particular 
about. In planting in masses, set 
each plant about 30" from its neigh¬ 
bor. 
Peonies will grow perfectly in a 
partly shaded place, and, when so lo¬ 
cated, the fading color is scarcely 
noticeable. Do not put them where 
no sun at all will reach them, how¬ 
ever. They should receive it for 
half the day; but this half may be 
divided between the first quarter and 
the last—between early morning and 
late afternoon. 
The Leading Types 
Among the early peonies are: 
Pceonia tenuifolia, crimson, double. 
P. moutan, not an herbaceous peony, 
but named here because usually next 
in order of blooming; the tree form, 
so greatly prized in China. P. of¬ 
ficinalis rubra; brilliant red, double. 
P. albiflora eduus superba; rosy pink, 
fragrant, double. P. festiva maxima; 
white, tipped carmine; double, large. 
P. albiflora, Mme. de Verneville, sul¬ 
phur white, semi-double, sweet. 
Early mid-season sorts include: 
Pceonia albiflora, Octavei Demay; 
blush to white; dwarfish plant; frag¬ 
rant. P. albiflora festiva; creamy 
white; like f. maxima but later and 
lower growing plant. 
Late mid-season : Pceonia albiflora 
Delachei; dark crimson; fragrant; 
fine for garden effect. P. albiflora 
Marechal MacMahon; crown form; 
red, strong growing. P. albiflora 
Mme. Crousse; pure white, tipped at 
center with red; very fragrant. P. 
albiflora Mons. Dupont; cream-white, 
red tipped center petals, stamens dis¬ 
tinctly golden; very fragrant. P. 
albiflora Avalanche; creamy white, 
yellow at petals’ base; fragrant and 
extremely good. 
Late: Pceonia albiflora Humei; 
outer petals rosy pink, inner petals 
blush with pencillings of red; a very 
old-time variety. P. albiflora Cour- 
onne d’Or, white, showing yellow; 
fine solid flower; fragrant. P. albi¬ 
flora Louise Renault; pink; very 
fragrant and refreshing. 
Very late: Pceonia albiflora Marie 
Lemoine; sulphur color; large flower 
on strong, erect stem. P. albiflora 
Marechal Valiant; purple red; heavy, 
long stems, drooping; very showy. 
P. albiflora Constant Devred; mauve; 
large flower, even, strong stems. 
P. albiflora rubra superba; dark 
crimson; large and strong; about the 
last of all to bloom. Old plants do 
better than newly planted ones. 
The Beginner’s Rose Garden 
(Continued from page 23) 
Rohan and Etienne Levet. White— 
Frau Karl Druschki, Margaret Dick¬ 
son, White Baroness. Pink—Mrs. R. 
S. Sharman Crawford, Mrs. John 
Laine, Paul Neyron, Mrs. George 
Dickson, Baroness Rothschild. 
Teas: Pink—William R. Smith, 
Maman Cochet, Mrs. R. B. Cant, 
Duchesse de Brabant. Yellow—Harry 
Kirk, Etoile de Lyon. White—White 
Maman Cochet. 
Hybrid Teas: Pink—Mme. Edmee 
Metz, La France, Killarney, Lady 
Ursula. Yellow—Duchess of Well¬ 
ington, Mrs. Aaron Ward. White 
and light colors—La Tosca, Phari- 
saer, Antoine Rivoire, Kaiserin Au¬ 
gusta Victoria, Molly Sharman Craw¬ 
ford. Red—Gruss an Teplitz, Etoile 
de France, Chateau de Clos Vougeot, 
Lawrent Carle. 
Moss: Crested moss (pink), and 
Blanche Moreau (white). 
There are, of course, many other 
excellent sorts to be had, and you 
will be quite safe in buying any of 
them from the reliable dealers. An 
average price for good, sturdy two- 
year-old budded bushes would be 75 
cents for single plants; if you take 
advantage of the reduced rates often 
available on orders of a dozen or so, 
the saving would be considerable. 
Even if you bought the twelve bushes 
for the 30' bed separately the cost 
would be but $8 or $9. 
Setting Out the Plants 
The two-year bushes should be set 
as soon as they arrive from the 
dealers. Examine them carefully for 
broken roots and eyes on the stock 
wood, cutting off any such that there 
may be. Dig the hole wide enough to 
admit all the roots without crowding, 
and sufficiently deep so that the bud¬ 
ding point will be 2" below the sur¬ 
face. The roots should incline some¬ 
what downward and must be spread 
out so that no two of them cross or 
interfere with each other. Then fill 
in carefully around the roots, firming 
the soil as the hole is filled to the 
proper level. Pot-grown plants 
should be set without disturbing the 
ball of earth which comes with them. 
It is essential to the success of any 
roses that, after planting, the surface 
of the soil be kept well loosened by 
frequent use of the rake. 
The rose bed that is most prolific 
in blossoms is the one that is not only ( 
made right but kept right by proper’ 
fertilizing. Probably the best form 
of manure to use is the liquid, pre¬ 
pared by enclosing a bushel of cow 
manure in a burlap sack and hanging 
it in a barrel of water for a couple 
of days. The resulting solution 
should be diluted with its own bulk 
of water and a half gallon applied 
to each plant once a week. Use a 
watering pot for this and be careful 
not to get any of the liquid on the 
foliage. 
Insect Pests 
Another thing that you must watch 
for is the insect pests which may at¬ 
tack the bushes. The bed that con¬ 
tains only healthy, robust plants is 
much more free from harmful in¬ 
sects than the unthrifty one, but even 
in its case the danger is always 
threatening. 
Much can be done toward prevent¬ 
ing pests by a daily application of a 
fine, powerful water spray from the 
hose, directed to all exposed parts 
of the plants. This will discourage 
the great majority of undesirable in¬ 
sects, but should any of them escape 
they may be destroyed by applying 
the following summarized remedies: 
(Continued on page 62) 
