June, 1916 
37 
Giant Pascal, the old standby, is 
the best winter celery. Plant 
about July 1st 
A late garden showing the carrots, beets and other root crops ar- Scarlet Horn, a good fall carrot, 
ranged with the best economy of space for efficient cultivation is usually ready in September. 
Sow in July 
THE LATE GARDEN AND ITS USEFULNESS 
Crops That Will Make the Garden One Hundred Per Cent 
Efficient Until the Fall Frost — Eleventh Hour Vegetables 
ADOLPH KRUHM 
T HE mission of the late garden is dis¬ 
tinctly two-fold. In the first place it 
prevents the ground from becoming a mass 
of weeds, thus reducing the chances for 
next year’s weed crops. Second¬ 
ly, it increases the productive 
capacity of the garden as a whole 
by nearly one-third. 
About July 1st, take stock of 
the various rows in your garden 
and size up their future possibili¬ 
ties. Wherever a row has almost 
borne the bulk of its crop, clear 
it without regrets, to make room 
for late crops. This applies parti¬ 
cularly to rows of peas, lettuce, 
spring radishes and other early 
vegetables. 
In this manner, you will soon 
find quite a number of rows avail¬ 
able for such late crops as beets, 
carrots, celery, winter radishes, 
turnips and rutabagas. Parsnip 
and salsify do not deserve to be 
considered here, since both- require 
a long growing season. 
Crop Rotation 
In planning for subsequent 
plantings in the home garden, it 
pays to keep in mind the common 
principles of crop rotation. Each 
crop extracts certain elements 
from the soil. The soil then re¬ 
quires either a whole season’s rest 
or a heavy application of the right 
kind of fertilizer to make up the 
deficiency caused by the first crop. 
Since constant utilization of the 
ground is advocated, it cannot get 
the needed rest, and since elements 
in fertilizer require some time to 
become available as plant food, the 
thing to do is to see that the crops 
in a row are changed. Plant your 
winter radishes in spent lettuce 
rows. Celery plants may be set in early 
bean rows as late as August first. Beets 
will do well where onions and radishes 
grew. See to it that turnips and rutabagas 
do not follow radishes. Both belong to the 
same plant family botanically, and if the 
radishes attract maggots, these are sure to 
attack the turnips. 
Unless your soil is very stiff, 
hard and dry, it will not be neces¬ 
sary to dig it for these late crops. 
If the garden has received con¬ 
stant cultivation since spring, the 
soil will be in nearly ideal, mellow 
condition for all root crops. Just 
clear the rows of all weeds, hoe 
them thoroughly both.ways, rake 
and then make the furrow to re¬ 
ceive the seeds. Since, as a gen¬ 
eral rule, all soils are rather dry 
on the surface during July and 
August, all seeds should be sown 
deeper during the summer than in 
the spring. If you sowed seeds 
y 2 " deep in April, sow them 1" 
deep in July, and so on. 
As a rule I do not advocate 
watering the garden with a hose, 
but if a shower is missing about 
the time that you complete your 
sowing for late crops, give the 
garden a good soaking. Do not 
sprinkle the surface today and do 
a little more of it tomorrow, but 
see that the moisture soaks in sev¬ 
eral inches. As soon as the sur¬ 
face dries off sufficiently, so that 
you can walk on the ground, get 
busy with either hand or wheel- 
hoe. Break the crust, create a 
dust mulch and thus preserve the 
moisture underneath. 
Late Root Crops 
While the leading variety of 
beets, for winter use, is Long 
Smooth Blood, this sort is not 
practical for sowing in the late 
garden, since it requires from 85 
to 100 days to reach good size. 
Delicious winter radishes can be grown from seed planted about 
July 1st. The varieties here are Long Black Spanish, Celestial 
and China Rose. China produces first and Spanish will go on 
until November 
For fall use, choose Purple Top White Globe turnips. Thin out 
to stand 4" apart in the row and avoid unshapely roots 
