50 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
YOUR ALL-YEAR GARDEN 
June Planting for Succession Crops and Next Winter’s Vegetable 
Supply — Summer Mulching and the War on Garden Pests 
F. F. ROCKWELL 
The Editor will be glad to answer subscribers’ questions pertaining to individual problems connected with the gardens and the grounds. Please 
enclose a self-addressed and stamped envelope, and address your inquiries to The Editor, House & Garden, 440 Fourth Avenue, New York 
The properly cared for garden shows an absence of weeds 
and a clear ground surface, thoroughly cultivated to con¬ 
serve moisture 
W ITH most of the things to be 
planted this month, a few days’ 
difference in planting will be 
no serious disadvantage; but a few 
days’ neglect of sprouting weeds is a 
very serious thing indeed. It not only 
quickly increases the amount of work to 
be done, but injures the crop. 
Weeds and Other Pests 
Two methods of attack should be 
used. Go over the whole garden with 
the wheel-hoe frequently enough to keep 
the centers of all rows clean. This work 
can be done very quickly and will leave 
you the best conditions for conquering 
the weeds in the rows. In going over 
the latter, be thorough, no matter how 
long it takes. Stir every square inch of 
soil, no matter whether a weed is visible 
or not—hundreds may be sprouting just 
below the surface. Small weeds will die 
in a few hours after they are pulled out 
or hoed up. After they begin to form 
a root system, however, in rainy weather, 
they will quickly root again even if left 
on the surface of the soil, and become 
most difficult to get rid of. 
Attend to thinning the plants so that 
those which remain will have plenty of 
room to develop. No overcrowded plant will give 
satisfactory results. Thin with a ruthless hand; 
there is very little danger of overdoing it. The 
distances at which the plants should stand can be 
found in the planting table published in the 
March House & Garden. 
During this month, plenty of the garden pests 
may be expected to put in an appearance. The 
safest, easiest, and most effective remedy for 
them is always to be found in measures of pre¬ 
vention. Get in a complete stock of the insecti¬ 
cides and fungicides which you will need. The 
investment will require but a few dollars, and 
such things as you may not need to use will keep, 
if necessary, until another season. 
June Planting 
In planting flowers, there is little to do this 
month, except where circumstances may make it 
necessary to put in a late garden, as is sometimes 
the case with summer cottages, new ground, etc. 
Many of the plants from which results are most 
There is still time to get in a row or two 
of limas if the soil is well prepared for 
their reception 
quickly obtained are described in the article on 
Quick Action Plants in the May issue. Bedding 
plants which will give immediate results from 
late plantings are geraniums, begonias, coleus, 
salvia, snapdragons, heliotrope, cannas, ageratum, 
and sweet alyssum. These things may often be 
obtained at very favorable prices after the Deco¬ 
ration Day rush is over. Tuberous rooted be¬ 
gonias, caladiums and similar extra tender plants 
may be set out now except in the northern States 
where there is usually danger of frost until after 
the first of June. 
In the vegetable garden there are two classes 
of things to be planted this month: succession 
crops to give a continuous supply, and things to 
be started now for fall and winter. Among the 
former are corn, peas, beans, lettuce, spinach and 
beets. If you are using only one variety of corn, 
plant twice during June to keep up a succession 
of ears to be used when the quality is at its best, 
or plant two or three varieties which ripen in 
succession. The earlier this month’s peas can be 
gotten in the better; those planted too near the 
end of the month are likely to suffer from too hot 
weather during July, unless you have artificial 
irrigation available. A good plan is to plant in 
furrows 4" to 6" deep; cover the peas only 3" or 
4" at first, and then gradually fill in as the plants 
grow; this gets the roots well down below the 
surface so that they can better withstand drought. 
If they can be given a slightly shaded position, 
so much the better. 
Beans, on the contrary, luxuriate in the warm, 
midsummer weather. The thing to avoid with 
them is soil or fertilizer too rich in nitrogen ; they 
will yield good results even where the soil is poor 
or light and sandy. If the lima beans have not 
yet been planted, get them in as early as possible 
this month, for they require a long season. Plant 
them with their eyes down in a well prepared soil, 
and when there is promise of clear weather ahead. 
Swiss chard, of which the supply will be ample 
if you planted it this spring, will continue to yield 
this summer and fall. If, however, you prefer 
spinach, plant now a small sowing of New Zea¬ 
land; this is entirely distinct from the ordinary 
kind and will gro\V through the hot summer 
months. In good soils, the plants are enormous. 
Vegetables for Winter Use 
Vegetables for late fall and winter to be started 
this month include cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels 
sprouts, kale, beets, cucumbers, carrots and toma¬ 
toes, and, if you have not already gotten it under 
way, Whitloof chickory. 
Cabbage, radish, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts 
and kale should be planted as early this month 
as possible so that you will have good strong 
plants ready to set out before the middle of July. 
A packet of seeds of each will give enough plants 
for the average home garden. If the soil is 
dry, prepare the drill as follows: 
Open it up 2" or 3" deep with the 
wheel-hoe or warren hoe, turn the hose 
into it and let it fill up and soak away 
several times until the ground at the bot¬ 
tom is saturated for 1' down, and then 
fill in with fine soil as fresh as may be 
procured. If this filling is mixed half 
and half with humus, so much the better, 
as it will retain water longer. Sow the 
seeds thinly, marking each sort carefully 
with a substantial tag, cover the seed 
about yp' deep and press down lightly. 
Throw tobacco dust over the row as a 
deterrant to the flea beetle which often 
ruins seedlings of these varieties. The 
seedlings should come up strongly within 
three or four days, and as soon as the 
third or fourth true leaf is out, thin so 
that they stand 3" or 4" apart. The 
extra plants may be transplanted, but it 
is much better to throw them away than 
to leave them in the row to impede each 
other’s growth. 
While there is still plenty of time for 
them, it is better not to delay the plant¬ 
ings of beets and carrots for the win¬ 
ter’s supply, as, unless you have irriga¬ 
tion available, a good stand can now be 
obtained better than during the hot, dry 
weather later in the month. Late plantings of 
cucumbers and tomatoes should be made to give 
an ample yield for the late fall use and for pick¬ 
ling. Those from the earliest crops are often 
“gone by” just when they are most needed. 
Summer Mulching 
One line of garden work which is often neg¬ 
lected or overlooked altogether is the summer 
mulch. With many crops and under many cir¬ 
cumstances, the dust mulch has taken the place of 
the regular mulch for convenience sake; but 
there are plenty of other places where leaf mould 
or decayed leaves, dry, spongy manure, grass clip¬ 
pings or the remains of the winter mulch which 
may have been set aside for this special purpose, 
placed on the ground between or around plants in 
the row, produces remarkable results by its effi¬ 
ciency in saving moisture. Water applied through 
this mulch will be several times as effective as 
though put on the surface in the ordinary way, 
especially about newly planted trees and shrubs. 
Weeds and a good yield of strawberries 
are not compatible, so be sure the former 
are kept down 
