54 
House & Garden 
How do 
you 
kill 
weeds? 
The old way has been by hand-weed¬ 
ing—paying excessive labor costs sev¬ 
eral times during the year. 
But, today, owners of estates and 
homes, as well as leading railroads, 
municipalities, country clubs, parks 
and cemeteries maintain beautiful 
weed-free paths, gutters, drives, roads, 
tennis courts and rights of way by the 
use of 
W££D-KILL£R 
Grass arid Weed-Killing 1 Chemical 
One gallon of Atlas clears 600 sq. ft. for 
the entire season. Apply in ordinary sprinkling 
can—diluted with 20 parts water. Weeds die 
a few days after first application—then, no 
more trouble for the entire year. Compare 
with costly hand-weeding which must be done 
over and over again. 
(For killing weeds in lawns use LAWN 
SILICATE. Write for particulars.) 
Sample offer: 
We will furnish you a trial 2 qt. can of Atlas 
Weed Killer on receipt of $1 and this coupon 
—prepaid if you mention your dealer's name. 
CHIPMAN CHEMICAL ENGINEERING CO., Inc. 
95 Liberty Street, New York 
Enclosed is $1.00 for a 2 qt. trial can of Atlas Weed 
Killer. 
Name 
Address 
Dealer . 
H. G.-8 
Breaking Into Beekeeping 
(Continued from page 52) 
chance to limber up in the warmth 
inside the ball. In order to carry 
on this process of keeping each other 
warm it is necessary that there be a 
good-sized mass of bees. If the mass 
is so small that at any time all of the 
bees become chilled, the chances are 
that the entire colony will die. Con¬ 
sequently the beekeeper must see to 
it that they have the right working 
conditions late in the summer in order 
that they may raise plenty of young, 
and store sufficient honey to provide 
food for the winter. 
If in the early fall, before the first 
hard frosts, we find that a colony of 
bees weighs less than sixty pounds it 
is a safe bet that they are short of 
stores and will have a hard time to 
pull through the winter. Such a col¬ 
ony may often be saved by feeding 
them several pounds of sugar syrup. 
An empty super may be set under 
the hive body and in this super a 
flat pan may be placed to contain the 
sugar. A little straw placed in the 
syrup will enable the bees to carry it 
up to the storage space in the hive. 
Feeding should preferably be done on 
warm, bright days. 
During the winter the bees may be 
protected by some kind of packing 
to assist in keeping out the cold. One 
of the chief things to remember is 
that we want to conserve the warmth 
near the top of the hive. For this 
reason it is well to take off the cover 
of the hive, put a thin board over the 
frames, and on this place an empty 
super. This super must be filled with 
shavings or dry leaves and the hive 
cover replaced. The whole thing 
can now be roughly wrapped with 
tarred paper to protect the bees still 
further. The idea in protecting the 
roof and leaving the sides more or 
less exposed is to prevent the con¬ 
densation of moisture on the lids 
where it would drip down on the 
cluster of bees. If any moisture 
condenses in the hive, it will form 
on the sides where it will do no 
harm. It is well, however, to place 
the hive so that it will slope slightly 
from the back to the front, and the 
front should be placed to the south. 
Thus any moisture that may run 
down the walls will be evaporated at 
the entrance to the hive. 
If the bees winter well, it follows 
that they will be ready to start rear¬ 
ing a brood very early in the spring, 
and that is the thing greatly to be de¬ 
sired. The bees that live over the 
winter are of no value in gathering 
honey. They will all be dead before 
the clover blooms, but their value is 
very great in that they make possible 
the rearing of many generations of 
young bees to work during the season 
of the honey flow. 
There have been many digressions 
in this story but there are also many 
digressions in the life of a beekeeper 
during the season, and the enthusiasm 
with which he follows these digres¬ 
sions will be the measure of his mark 
of success. And let me say in conclu¬ 
sion that if you are going to have 
bees about the place, manage them, 
control them—don’t merely be a bee- 
keeper. Most people can keep a few 
bees, but it is the exceptional one who 
manages them in such a way that he 
always has a supply of that most 
delectable food—comb honey. The 
good bee manager need never eat 
his biscuits unsweetened. 
The Twelve Best Flowers for a Garden of Gold 
(Continued from page 23) 
Such a border should always have 
a unifying medium in the form of an 
edging extending its entire length, 
and there are two flowers which I 
have not mentioned as yet that lend 
themselves well to this purpose. One 
is the dwarf iris (Iris pumila excelsa ) 
which bears yellow flowers in the 
spring and hence provides only an 
edging of its short sword-like leaves 
during the greater part of the time. 
The other is an annual (Sanvitalia 
procumbens fl. pi.) which resembles 
the cone flowers or rudbeckia, on a 
small scale. This grows about 6" in 
height and is of such easy culture that 
it makes a particularly desirable edg¬ 
ing plant. I would advise starting 
the seeds indoors, in order to have 
plants of considerable size that will 
soon begin to bloom when the out¬ 
door season arrives. Otherwise, the 
border would be without an edging, 
save as the growing green of the 
seedlings provided it with one, until 
the plants had time to reach maturity. 
I have not ventured among the 
annuals at all, in the selection of 
these “best” yellow flowers, but there 
is one of them that I cannot forbear 
mentioning. This is the splendid 
African marigold, not to be confused 
with the French strain, which is more 
dwarf and humbler in every way, 
though frequently of most wonderful 
texture and color. The African mari¬ 
golds are tall plants— 2! is the aver¬ 
age height—and of open and strong 
growth. The French marigolds are 
low-growing and often the outer 
branches rest on the ground and take 
root. Hence the African cannot be 
used for close and compact bedding, 
while the French can. As there are 
yellows among these marigolds that 
are almost unknown in the flower 
kingdom, it is worth while to give 
them space if possible. “El Dorado” 
is a variety which affords many un¬ 
usual and lovely tones. 
Eighteenth Century Italian Wall Furniture 
(Continued from page 41) 
ward splayed legs and feet, were 
gorgeous not only with ormolu 
mounts but also with an opulent dis¬ 
play of marquetry and vari-colored 
veneer. Oftentimes the veneer was 
so laid that the convergent diagonals 
of the grain formed a highly effective 
pattern, or, it may be, that several 
woods of contrasting hue were cut 
into small diapers and laid over the 
extent of a drawer front or a panel. 
Then, again, console cabinets of 
this same type sometimes had drawer 
fronts and panels enriched with bone 
inlay engraved with black and set in 
a dark ground. The refined motifs 
were ordinarily of Renaissance pro¬ 
venance and in this method of em¬ 
bellishment, probably attributable to 
a Spanish or Moorish origin, the 
Italian craftsmen were notable adepts. 
In lacquer, too, some successful es¬ 
says were made although, as a rule, 
the early 18th Century Italian lacquer 
is muddy in color, deficient in sur¬ 
face and mediocre in the distribution 
and execution of the design. 
Altogether, considered from the 
