58 
House & Garden 
This new interpretation of the Oriental note successfully combines 
restraint with smart individuality 
How modem designers 
re-create ancient art 
U NTIL recently it has been almost impossible to 
furnish a room in the smart decorative furniture 
without sooner or later tiring of its foreign note. 
In the newest design you can now have the colorful 
dash of Oriental pieces combined with complete liv¬ 
ability, permanent interest, growing enjoyment and 
delight. 
This peculiarly satisfying interpretation of an art 
nearly two thousand years old, we owe to Berkey & 
Gay’s designers. This is but one example of the 
success they attain in the creation of new designs in 
which breathes the genius of master furniture makers 
of every age. England, France, Spain, Italy have all 
contributed their finest inspiration to the develop¬ 
ment of Berkey & Gay pieces. 
No matter what your problem may be, no matter 
whether you live in a small apartment or formal 
town house, you will find in Berkey & Gay furniture 
the very pieces you want—pieces that give a delight¬ 
ful new interest to any room. 
Ask at your favorite furniture shop for a letter admitting 
you to Berkey & Gay’s Exhibition Rooms in Grand Rapids 
or New York. Their portfolio of twenty room scenes con¬ 
tains invaluable suggestions about furniture and its arrange¬ 
ment. Send 25c to Berkey & Gay Furniture Co., 186Monroe 
Ave., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
BERKEY& GAY 
FURNITURE 
Friendly pieces that would make 
even a bleak corner interesting 
Greenhouse Fruits with Outdoor Flavors 
(Continued from page 47) 
the setting of the fruit. Usually, with 
late graperies, a tapping of the cane will 
cause the pollen to fly sufficiently to effect 
a good “set”; but with early graperies, 
either a camel’s hair brush or a rabbit’s 
tail is used to transfer the pollen from 
one flower to another, thus assuring 
necessary fertilization. 
After the “setting” period, the spray¬ 
ing is usually resumed and the tying in 
of the shoots started. Patience in this 
operation is essential. If any attempt is 
made to tie the shoots in position the 
first time, a large percentage will crack, 
thus ruining your season’s work. It 
usually requires three attempts to get the 
shoot down to its proper position. The 
shoot is “stopped” two joints beyond the 
fruit. From this time on, until the 
growth ceases, you must persistently keep 
the laterals removed to one joint. 
Thinning the Fruit 
Proper thinning of the fruit is one of 
the most important essentials to a well- 
finished bunch of grapes. What percen¬ 
tage to remove is hard to estimate, as so 
much depends upon the “set,” the vari¬ 
ety and the general condition of the 
canes. Generally speaking, about one- 
fourth of the berries should be taken off, 
in some cases more. This should be done 
at one operation. Any second thinning 
rotted manure, adding about one bag of is sure to cause a poorly shaped bunch, 
coarse crushed bone to every twelve bar- The idea is to remove just enough to get 
rowfuls of this mixture. For drainage, a good, well-rounded cluster, with every 
broken brick, or some other like sub- berry appearing on the surface and no 
stance, should be placed in the bottom crowding. A small crotched stick and a 
before the soil is put in the border. About pair of sharp-pointed scissors are the 
4' apart is the proper distance ’to put tools used. The berries must not be 
the plants. Some growers, however, pre- touched by tire hand, else their bloom 
fer a distance of 3' 6", but this is the will be destroyed. After thinning, the 
extreme minimum. shoulders or side bunches should be care- 
After planting, the canes should be cut fully supported, 
within two or three buds of the ground When the fruit begins to ripen, the 
to develop strong leaders which will even- atmospheric conditions must be changed, 
tually be the bearing canes. The strong- Spraying of the foliage should cease, 
est “break” which appears on the young Dampening down occasionally is per- 
cane is the one to select as a leader. This missible, but, generally speaking, the 
must be encouraged and carefully trained conditions should be dry. The border 
until it reaches a height of 6' or 7', and must be given a final watering just as 
then “stopped.” This last is done by re- the grapes show color, and the roots 
moving the top of the growth by pinch- must be kept dry so as to give flavor to 
ing out the eye with the thumb and first the berries. All ventilators should be 
finger. The side shoots should be trained thrown wide open during favorable 
out horizontally, just the same as when weather, and under no circumstances 
the canes are fruiting, and “stopped” should the house be kept closed, as a 
when they have reached the limits of close atmosphere will soften the skin on 
the space available for them laterally. ( Continued on page 60) 
For the first two years the 
canes should not be allowed 
to fruit. Flower spikes should 
be pinched off as soon as 
they appear. The third sea¬ 
son after planting the canes 
should be allowed to carry 
some fruit—just a couple of 
bunches each. From then on, 
the crop can be increased 
each year until you have a 
full-fledged grapery, bearing 
a bunch to every foot of cane. 
Early Season Care 
In spring, when the canes 
are being started into growth, 
they are usually tied down 
to prevent the flow of sap 
forcing the upper eyes into 
growth and entirely neglect¬ 
ing the lower ones. Many 
lower eyes are lost because 
of this habit of the grape. 
After the lower eyes have 
started into growth, they can 
be tied up in position. 
When starting the canes, 
the border should have a 
thorough soaking, and 
spraying the canes several 
times a day is advisable. 
This spraying is kept up un¬ 
til the flowers begin opening, 
when it should be stopped 
and a drier atmosphere main¬ 
tained in order to facilitate 
Melon vines, like grapes, are trained 
along the house sides and roof 
While dormant, paint the canes with 
alcohol to kill the mealy bugs 
