60 
House & Garden 
A GOODLT number of 
our American Sculptors 
have joined the military 
training camps, in the ser¬ 
vice of our country. 
Their works are completely 
represented in the Gorham 
Galleries, in whose custody 
they will remain. The Gor¬ 
ham Galleries plan to "carry 
on” the high standard of 
American Sculptural Art, 
confident that the dawn of 
the New Era will find the 
genius of our American 
Sculptors in the vanguard 
of Artistic Progress. 
Students and Collectors will 
be well repaid bv visiting 
The Gorham Galleries 
Fifth Avenue and 36th Street 
New York 
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Greenhouse Fruits with Outdoor Flavors 
(Continued from page 58) 
the berries and prevent their keeping 
as they should. 
A night temperature of about 40° to 
45° is best when starting the grapery. A 
rise of 10° over this is advisable during 
the day, but in bright weather, when the 
ventilators are open, an increase of 15° 
or even 20° over the night temperature 
is not harmful. The night temperature 
is gradually increased—and, of course, 
the day temperature correspondingly— 
until about 60° is reached during the 
flowering period. A reduction of a few 
degrees is then advisable. 
After the “setting” period the tempera¬ 
ture can again be raised to about 65°. 
This increase must be gradual, as a sud¬ 
den fluctuation either way may cause 
trouble. This temperature is maintained 
until the ripening period, when it is 
again reduced to give color and finish to 
the fruit. Of course, it is understood 
that with late graperies there are times 
when the night temperature will be great¬ 
ly in excess of that mentioned, but all 
greenhouse temperatures are based on 
artificial heating. 
The canes must be properly rested and 
ripened after the fruiting time. Keep 
water away from the roots as much as 
possible. Keep all the ventilators open, 
and special care should be taken to keep 
the night temperature below 40°. In 
fact, if you can drain out the water from 
your heating coils, a slight freezing will 
do the canes considerable good. 
As to varieties, Muscat of Alexander 
is considered the finest white grape. This 
is oval-shaped, pale amber in color and 
of very fine flavor. Buckland Sweet¬ 
water is also a very good white variety. 
In blacks, Madresfield Court is consid¬ 
ered the best and most fruitful variety; 
in fact, it is a black Muscat. Gros Col- 
man is a very good large grape and is 
invaluable for late graperies, while Black 
Hamburg is one of the most frequently 
used for forcing and is of fine quality. 
Possible Pests 
Perhaps the hardest pest to handle is 
the mealy bug. This insect causes more 
injury to grapes than all others com¬ 
bined. If it is not kept in check it will 
prove positively ruinous. If any appear 
in the grapery you should take every 
precaution to keep the fruit from being 
spoiled. Cotton wadding placed around 
the neck of the bunch will prevent the 
mealy bug from coming in contact with 
the fruit. A small camel’s hair brush, 
dipped in kerosene and worked over the 
canes lightly to touch the insects, will kill 
them, but the best method of fighting 
them is when the canes are dormant. 
The canes should then be scraped of all 
loose bark and painted very carefully 
with a cheap alcohol, using care that this 
does not come in contact with the buds. 
After scraping and cleaning, 1" or so 
of the top soil from the border should be 
removed and replaced with clean, whole¬ 
some soil from outdoors. Earth which 
has been thoroughly frozen is preferable. 
The red spider is also troublesome at 
times. It can usually be controlled by 
proper spraying, as it is a well known 
fact that this pest breeds only in a dry, 
hot atmosphere. The same might be 
said of thrips, but they are easily con¬ 
trolled with nicotine sprayings, which, if 
properly applied, will not injure the fruit. 
Mildew is probably the most common 
grape disease; it is due to carelessness or 
bad conditions. During bad weather, 
painting the heating pipes with flowers 
of sulphur will prevent this trouble. 
Once started, however, it will be neces¬ 
sary to blow sulphur on the foliage, where 
the evaporation caused by the sun will 
soon destroy the mildew. 
Shanking is the very worst disease and 
in some cases almost the entire crop will 
be lost from it, the berries falling pre¬ 
maturely. This is a root disease and is 
very rarely seen when the roots are con¬ 
fined to an inside border. However, 
over-feeding is one of the factors liable 
to cause it. More often it is the result 
of the roots getting into some unknown 
conditions outside. 
Supplementary Uses for the House 
It might be asked to what use the fruit 
house could be put for the first year or 
two, or until such time as the grapes re¬ 
quire all the space. It is possible to use 
the fruit house for several purposes while 
waiting for the canes or trees to develop. 
Potted fruits could be raised for the first 
three or four years. These do not re¬ 
quire any particular culture other than 
that afforded to plants being forced, and 
they will yield good returns. I have seen 
cases where plant beds have been erected 
in the dormant fruit house and the house 
used for forcing cool growing plants, 
such as mignonette, stocks, spinach, etc. 
In this case, however, care must be taken 
that water is not used too freely, as it 
must be kept away from the roots of the 
resting canes. I have also seen the canes 
wrapped up and then laid along the side 
of the greenhouse with a thin board par¬ 
tition placed between them and the in¬ 
side of the house, the house being used 
for various forced plants like tulips, nar¬ 
cissus, stocks, sweet peas, etc. It is also 
possible to use the grapery for the finish¬ 
ing of chrysanthemums, as some of the 
foliage can be removed by the time it is 
necessary to use the house for this pur¬ 
pose. However, it should be borne in 
mind that all plants, of any character, 
which are brought into the fruit house 
must be absolutely clean, because it is a 
hard matter to eradicate insect pests 
from the grapery, even though grapes are 
not troubled with them to any great 
extent under ordinary conditions. 
Peaches and Nectarines 
Peaches and nectarines are also popu¬ 
lar fruits for forcing in the greenhouse. 
The nectarines are usually preferred be¬ 
cause of their having smooth skins and 
being better croppers. There is no es¬ 
sential difference between the nectarine 
and the peach except in this variation in 
the skin, and it is a well-known fact that 
nectarines have been produced from 
peach seed, and vice versa. 
The nectarine requires practically the 
same cultural conditions as the grape. 
The house recommended is a 25' even- 
span, preferably running east and west, 
as the up-to-date method of training is 
on cross trellises rather than the old- 
established one of roof training. If roof 
training is adopted, the house should run 
north and south, so that the sun passes 
over it and thus assures an even light. 
The trellis used for nectarines is 
usually made of wire with an iron frame, 
and two systems are used. In one, the 
walks are placed outside the trellis, on 
each side of the house, which gives the 
trees more freedom and is preferable so 
far as cultivation is concerned. The 
other system is an arched opening run¬ 
ning through the center of the trellis, 
and this necessitates two trees, one on 
either side of the walk. In this case the 
trees are restricted to a great extent, but 
it is by far the more attractive of the 
two systems. The arched trellis walk, 
when the fruit is ripening, is one of the 
most delightful places imaginable. Where 
the roof training is used the house is 
wired exactly as for grapes, and the 
trees placed 8' apart. When trained on 
trellises, the trees are 4' to 6' apart. 
Nectarines require that their roots be 
restricted more than grapes, because, if 
given freedom, especially in good soil, 
the trees will run to growth rather than 
to fruit. The customary method of over¬ 
coming this is to plant the trees in large 
boxes and keep increasing the size until 
such time as they will require the whole 
border. In any case, a tight inside bor¬ 
der, with proper drainage, is strongly 
recommended. 
(Continued on page 62) 
