64 
House & Garden 
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(Continued from page 62) 
Melons are heat lovers, and a tempera¬ 
ture of from 65° to 70° at night is none 
too much. Care must be taken when the 
plants are being forced that insects and 
diseases do not gain a foodiold. It is 
possible, however, to force crops that 
come to maturity and are then discarded, 
such as the melon, with less fear of trou¬ 
ble than would be the case with crops 
that are grown from year to year, such as 
the grape, because in one case we simply 
crowd the plant to early maturity regard¬ 
less of the danger, whereas in the other 
case the danger to succeeding crops 
would be too great to warrant much 
forcing of the stock. 
No special greenhouse is required for 
the cultivation of melons. It used to be 
considered that a melon house should be 
low-roofed and narrow, perhaps because 
such a house could be easily heated; but 
it should be borne in mind that a house 
easily heated is also easily cooled, and an 
even temperature is much easier to main¬ 
tain in a larger house. The best melons 
which I have ever seen were grown in an 
18' house where four rows of plants were 
planted, two in the outer bench and two 
in the center bench. In the place to 
which I refer they have three compart¬ 
ments of 25' each devoted entirely to 
melons, and there is hardly a day in the 
entire year when big, well grown, high 
quality fruit is not available for the 
owner to enjoy. 
Strawberries and Potted Fruits 
Strawberries represent anodier fruit 
possibility for the greenhouse. They are 
unquestionably one of the finest and most 
attractive fruits, and are particularly ac¬ 
ceptable during the winter season. 
The important point in their cultiva¬ 
tion is to get the first runners from the 
outside grown plants. These runners 
should be potted up in the early summer; 
in fact, the better method is to plunge 
the pots near the mother plants and to 
place the young runners so that they will 
root in the plunged pot and, when thor¬ 
oughly rooted, be removed from the 
mother plant. By this method, the young 
plant does not suffer any setback. These 
young plants are kept potted until early 
fall, when they should be well rooted in 
7" pots. They are then placed in a 
coldframe to be ripened up. This is done 
by withholding water and covering the 
plants with sash during rainy weather. 
Of course, water is not withheld entirely, 
simply enough to check the growth of the 
plant and cause a premature ripening of 
the crown. After the crown is thorough¬ 
ly ripened the plants are ready for forc¬ 
ing and should be brought into the fruit 
house in batches of suitable numbers to 
suit the quantities of berries desired. In 
this way a successional crop is secured. 
Potted fruits are becoming more popu¬ 
lar every year. One reason is that be¬ 
sides offering big returns, no special type 
of greenhouse is required. The trees can 
be purchased in fruiting size and, when 
skillfully handled—which is not very 
hard to do, as only good general cultural 
conditions are necessary—they will yield 
fruit which is really wonderful consider¬ 
ing their dwarf, stubby habit. Peaches, 
apples, pears, plums, nectarines, apricots, 
cherries, figs and grapes are all available, 
and they are customarily found on large 
places where there are other fruit houses 
for the cultivation of grapes. There is 
nothing for which the greenhouse can be 
used which will give more lasting satis¬ 
faction, because these trees are always 
attractive, either when in flower or fruit. 
Fall Sown Sweet Peas for Next Year’s Bloom 
(Continued from page 19) 
Fiery Cross is well named from its glow¬ 
ing, fire-red hue 
quantity of soot. The barrels are then 
filled with water and will be ready for 
use in twenty-four hours. Barrels of 
thirty gallons capacity are -what I 
usually work with. 
Take a pint out of each barrel and 
add to one gallon of water. Apply this 
after first giving the plants a thorough 
soaking with pure water if the soil is 
noticeably dry. 
In applying this liquid fertilizer keep 
a few inches away from the plants. It 
may be safely given once a week, and 
one gallon is sufficient for five or six 
feet of row. If unable to procure sheep 
manure or soot, a good commercial fer¬ 
tilizer may be substituted; but do not 
use nitrate of soda unless under extreme 
conditions. 
Sweet Pea Enemies 
The most dreaded enemy of the sweet 
pea in America is the green fly, or aphis, 
and war must be waged on the first ap¬ 
pearance of the pests. I have found 
nothing better than kerosene emulsion, to 
which add one teaspoonful arsenate of 
lead to each gallon of emulsion. Spray 
every fourth day until the plants are free 
of the insects. Or Black-leaf 40 may be 
used, following the instructions accom¬ 
panying the container. Another good in¬ 
secticide is sulpho-napthol, mixing two 
teaspoonfuls in eight quarts of water. I 
have known the latter to be effective 
when all other methods have failed to 
eradicate the pests. 
Even if you should not sow your 
sweet peas in the fall, this is the best 
season to prepare the ground for spring 
planting. Follow the instructions al¬ 
ready given for soil preparation, but 
leave the top soil rough or ridged, that 
as much of it as possible may be ex¬ 
posed to the mellowing influence of win¬ 
ter’s frosts and snows. 
After the first few drying days in 
early spring, this top rough soil will dry 
out very quickly. Then it may be raked 
into condition for seed sowing, perhaps 
several weeks sooner than if it had not 
received its initial working over and gen¬ 
eral preparation in the fall. 
