October, 
1917 
33 
THE BEST METHODS of PRUNING ROSES 
Long, Moderate and Close Pruning and the Varieties to Which 
It Is Applied To Get Better Flowers and Sturdier Wood Growth 
P RUNING roses effects two objects; it makes 
compact, handsome bushes, free from weak 
shoots and dead wood, and it increases the 
amount of floral beauty throughout the sum¬ 
mer and autumn. It is of three kinds—long, 
moderate and close pruning. 
Long pruning is employed for all strong, 
vigorous, free-growing kinds. The conse¬ 
quence of a vigorous growing rose being closer 
pruned is that it will make a quantity of strong 
shoots, generally springing from the crown 
close to the stock, and very likely no flower 
during the whole year—at all events, not till 
late autumn. The proper plan is to leave 
from five to eight strong shoots, placed as 
regularly as possible. Cut them back so as 
to leave four or five buds, of last year’s wood, 
and then carefully prune away all weak 
and dead branches. Roses do not flower well 
in the center of the bush, and, therefore, that 
part should be well thinned out, leaving the 
branches as free of each other as possible. 
As a general rule it is not right to cut into the 
bush below the preceding year’s wood; but 
when the bushes become old it is necessary now 
and then to cut away a portion of the old 
wood, which becomes clubbed. This applies 
more or less to all roses. It should be re- 
W. R. GILBERT 
moved with a small saw, and the wound after¬ 
wards smoothed over with a pruning knife. 
Moderate pruning consists in using the knife 
more freely than in the former case, in leaving 
but two eyes of last year’s wood, and in care¬ 
fully training the branches, so as to make the 
head round and compact. As roses that re¬ 
quire moderate pruning have a greater tendency 
to flower than those in the last mentioned class, 
a little inattention is not so injurious to them. 
Under this head may be enumerated the greater 
part of our newest and best roses, including 
the moss, damask, hybrid damask, perpetual, 
and a great portion of the best hybrid per- 
petuals and bourbons. 
Close Pruning 
The third method, or close pruning system, 
is used for those which are termed dwarf 
growers, or that make but little wood. This 
class is not numerous in comparison with the 
others, but it contains many of the brightest 
gems of the rosery. They succeed better on 
dwarf stocks than those 4' or 5' high. In some 
cases they are shy growers and apt to over¬ 
flower their strength. This is obviated by close 
pruning, as the strongest shoots should be cut 
away pretty freely. Under this head may be 
classed a few of the best moss roses and many 
hybrid perpetuals, damask perpetuals, and 
some of the bourbon tribe. 
A few words on yellow briar roses. Roses 
of this class are peculiar in their flowering 
and therefore require peculiar pruning; they 
are very early bloomers and make no wood 
previous to flowering. They generally put 
forth the leaf and bud about the same time. 
It is, therefore, necessary that as much as 
possible of last year’s wood be retained, par¬ 
ticularly the ends of the branches, from which 
most of the flowers proceed. Do not prune 
them when other roses are pruned, but shortly 
after they have done flowering, leaving three 
or four branches a little shortened. The rest 
may be cut well back, when they will make 
good flowering wood the remainder of the 
season and ripen it well. 
Very little cutting is necessary in the case of 
ramblers. Any shoots which are outdistancing 
their neighbors may be cut back somewhat, an'd 
all dead canes should be entirely removed. 
This advice applies equally to the rugosa type. 
A good pair of pruning shears will be found 
invaluable in rose pruning. Keep them sharp, 
and see that all cuts are cleanly made, so that 
they will heal quickly. 
A comfortable rocker, a copy in every 
detail of a Colonial design, is made 
of mahogany knot wood with a rush 
seat. 30" high, 20" wide: $13.50 
In mahogany or gray enamel, a sew¬ 
ing table with sliding drawer in 
small compartments. 14 by 15" 
on top, 28" high. Opens to 33". $18 
WORK STANDS for WAR KNITTERS 
These stands can be purchased through the Shopping 
Service, which will also furnish the names of the shops. 
Address Shopping Service, House & Garden, 19 West 
44th Street, New York City 
Still the favorite mahogany. This time in 
an antique finish. The table is 28 ^ 2 " high 
and 16" by 33^" on top. $27.50. The rocker, 
in the same finish, has a handmade rush 
seat. A copy of a Colonial design. $13.50 
A wicker basket hangs on one side of the 
mahogany sewing table, lined with colored 
silks. The stand is 25 long, 15" wide 
and 29J/2" high. $22. A slipper height 
solid mahogany rocker with antique finish 
and rush seat. $12 
A fifth table of mahogany stands 26" high, 
10" wide and 20" long. $15.50. The ma¬ 
hogany arm rocker, which is a reproduction 
of the Colonial Windsor type, is 30" high 
and 21" wide. It sells for $16 
