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House & Garden 
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our Home reflects 
9y5 our Taste 
in woodwork. To create an interior decorative 
scheme of true individuality, be sure that your choice 
of wood is adapted to your preference in color. 
ARKANSAS SOFT PINE 
with its requisite physical qualities for stains and 
enamels, supplies the perfect base for either treat¬ 
ment. A non-resinous wood of fine texture and 
beautiful figure, it can be made to harmonize com¬ 
pletely with period furniture or dainty hangings. 
Our book describing how and why will be sent 
on request. If interested in new home plans, let 
us know. Arkansas Soft Pine isTrade Marked 
and sold by dealers East of the Rockies. 
ARKANSAS SOFT PINE BUREAU 
420 BANK. OF COMMERCE BUILDING /raSBUS.'S 
LITTLE ROCK. ■ ARKANSAS 
Every home should have modern water conveniences, whether it be 
located in the city, its suburbs, or out in the country somewhere. Location 
no longer counts. MYERS HYDRO-PNEUMATIC PUMPS take care 
MYERS 
BULLDOZER POWER PUMP 
of this, for they are now used in homes 
of every description to furnish water 
for bath, toilet, kitchen, laundry and 
other purposes. Many styles—Many 
sizes, for use with any style pressure 
tank. Hand, Windmill, Gasoline 
Engine or Electric Motor Operation. 
Catalog and Information on request. 
F. E. MYERS & BRO., Ashland, Ohio 
First Steps in Shrub Selection 
(Concluded from page 66) 
so deep, according to the shrubs that 
are to be set. It will take at least two 
or three years for shrubs to reach their 
natural size, and as you want full de¬ 
velopment as quickly as possible, it pays 
to enrich the soil with thoroughly rotted 
manure or with bone meal. 
Having all in readiness, unpack the 
shrubs as you plant them, cutting off 
clean just inside the injury any roots 
which may be bruised or broken. Make 
the planting hole large enough so that 
the roots can be laid out in a natural 
position, and deep enough for the plant 
to be set as deep as or 1" or so deeper 
than it was growing in the nursery, 
which point will be plainly indicated by 
the earth mark on the stem or trunk. 
With the fingers work enough earth in 
over the roots to protect them from in¬ 
jury, and then stamp this into place. 
One pi the commonest mistakes in 
setting out shrubs is to plant them too 
loosely. If the soil is at all dry, pour 
in a pail or so of water when the hole 
is about one-third filled, and after this 
has had time to soak down into the 
earth, continue the planting. Firm all 
the dirt replaced till the surface level is 
almost reached, leaving a slight depres¬ 
sion so that any subsequent rain will not 
run off. If any of the tops are so long 
as to be in danger of being whipped 
about by the wind and broken, they may 
be pruned back. 
The proper time for planting is im¬ 
mediately after the first frost, which will 
be from the first of October to the first 
of November, according to the section. 
In colder localities shrubs which are not 
absolutely hardy, such as some of the 
azaleas, will need a winter protection of 
leaves, litter or rough manure. This 
should not be applied, however, until 
after the ground has been frozen hard, 
as its purpose is merely to prevent alter¬ 
nate thawing and freezing under the 
direct action of the sun’s rays during 
winter and especially early spring. It is 
not intended to be thick enough to keep 
the frost out. This mulch should be 
removed gradually well along in the 
spring, as if it is taken off too soon the 
shrubs are very likely to start into pre¬ 
mature growth. 
Varieties for Special Purposes 
Where shrubs are used in any quan¬ 
tity the most satisfactory way is to de¬ 
vote a border to them exclusively. In 
this way they are not only much more 
easily cared for, but are also more ef¬ 
fective than if scattered about in small 
groups or as single plants. They should 
be set close enough so that when full 
grown they will crowd each other slight¬ 
ly, as this is their natural condition of 
growth. Furthermore, they should be 
so arranged, with the tallest at the back 
and the lower ones in front, that they 
will form a sloping surface or “face” 
from the front to the back of the border. 
Practically all of the shrubs mentioned 
in this article are available for use in 
this way. For the first year or two the 
soil surface should be kept cultivated 
between the plants; after that they will 
shade it sufficiently so that no grass or 
weeds will grow. 
Shrubs for Hedging 
For tall hedges, althea (Rose of Shar¬ 
on), lilac and California privet are all 
good. The last can be trimmed into 
any shape desired and is especially use¬ 
ful for formal work. For a low, informal 
hedge nothing is more beautiful than 
the Japanese barberry (Berberis Thim- 
bergii). It is graceful in habit and 
pleasing in color, both during the sum¬ 
mer and later in the fall when its dark 
green leaves turn to brilliant colors, and 
during early winter when its scarlet 
berries are ripe; it is also healthy and 
extremely hardy. For low formal hedges, 
especially for lining out gardens, etc., 
box is very pretty, but it is winter killed 
more easily than the barberry. For a 
hedge in an exposed or unfavorable 
place, such as along the outside of a 
fence or bank, Rosa rugosa is the best 
thing to use, as it practically cannot be 
killed and will thrive even without at¬ 
tention. For an impenetrable, animal- 
proof hedge about the grounds or the 
garden, plant Osage orange in a double 
row, putting the plants 6" to 10" apart. 
These bushes can be bought in quantity 
at a low rate. The Japan quince (Pyrus 
japonicus) also makes an extremely at¬ 
tractive hedge, but is more expensive. 
For planting in isolated positions the 
hydrangeas are used more than any¬ 
thing else. The one most commonly 
known, blooming in late summer, with 
enormous pyramidal flower heads, is H. 
paniculata grandiflora. For blooms in 
early summer until H. paniculata begins 
flowering, plant H. arborescens grandi¬ 
flora, the Snowball hydrangea. 
Flowering shrubs of good size for 
making single specimens are deutzias, 
weigelas, the smoke tree (Rhus cotinus), 
and magnolias, as well as such foliage 
trees as the various Japanese maples 
and the purple beech, and any of the 
smaller growing evergreens already men¬ 
tioned. 
The Garden of Yellow and Deep Maroon 
(Concluded f> 
only three varieties are admissible: Delia, 
of double sulphur yellow flecked with 
dull green; Rubra triumplians, a very 
dark red double; and Mrs. Key, a black¬ 
ish dark red single, displaying golden 
stamens. 
In masses large enough for a truly 
imposing effect, the lemon yellow colum¬ 
bine appears with the roses. From now 
on many kinds of flowers are in bloom 
together: creamy yuccas and early lemon 
lilies forming tall accents in the central 
beds; on the outer border ranks of holly¬ 
hocks in salmon buff and dark maroon 
marshalled against the hedge; the 
creamy-yellow late foxglove (Digitalis 
grandiflora) nodding above darkest red 
Sweet William, while on another side 
the rich red bee balm takes equal rank 
with the tall creamy Spircea flipendula. 
The bloom is carried through the sum¬ 
mer by the large and carefully distributed 
masses of the daisy-like Anthemis tinc- 
toria, of which the variety alba is of 
creamy white with yellow centers. With 
the latter some of the bee balm is still 
in bloom, and massed in the center 
where they will have plenty of room, are 
cactus dahlias of dark maroon and 
v om page 55) 
shades of fawn, amber and apricot. The 
latter replace groups of tulips whose 
bulbs have been removed after blooming. 
Meanwhile snapdragons, nasturtiums, 
stocks and gladioli in cream color and 
dark red have replaced the bulbs along 
the border, thus in a minor way pro¬ 
viding ample bloom until cut down by 
the frost. But the main effect of autumn 
is due to the masses of tall helenium in 
wallflower red, which tower above hardy 
chrysanthemums of cream, straw color 
and sulphur yellow. The latter are 
placed in large areas well to the front of 
the beds, as they detest being crowded. 
There is in the selection of varieties 
for such a garden need of great care 
lest a jarring note be introduced. But 
the effectiveness will be all the greater 
because of the limitations of the list. 
Furthermore, troubles do not end with 
the making of the list, ordering the 
flowers and planting them; for constant 
vigilance must be exercised lest perverse 
blossoms obtrude whose unexpected hues 
were not provided for. And like every 
other garden, its appearance will be 
largely determined by the amount of in¬ 
telligent care bestowed upon it. 
