90 
House & Garden 
"BUILD OF CYPRESS 
the ‘Wood Eternal 1 
AND YOU BUILD 
BUT ONCE." 
You Both Love to 
Linger 
a moment on your own Cypress 
doorstep to enjoy your own Cypress 
entranceTood and those delightful 
Cypress trellises—and back of your happy 
pride is the great satisfaction of knowing 
that your investment is a solid asset, because 
with “the ‘Wood Eternal’ all over the 
place” you’re oretty well insured against 
the repair bill bugaboo. It’s a very comfort¬ 
able feeling. It pays to insist on genuine 
Tidewater Cypress, the true“Wood Eternal.” 
Ask the lumberman to show you the Cyp¬ 
ress trade-mark arrow (shown below) on 
every board or bundle. 
Vol. 28 is the Trellis 8 C Arbor Book. 68 pages. 28 
pictures. 23 working plans with specifications. 2 
valuable Vine Charts. FREE on request. Write. 
(Also ask for Vol. 43 , a surprise book.) 
Southern Cypress Mfrs. Assn. 
1210 Poydras Bldg., New Orleans, Louisiana 
or 1210 Graham Bldg., Jacksonville, Florida 
Insist on TRADE-MARKED Cypress at your local lumber dealer’s. 
If he hasn’t it, let us know promptly and we will see that you are supplied. 
S Tide Wafer 
%ms 
Tin Wood Eternal" 
Gardens in Old Foundation Walls 
(Continued from page 88) 
ground overlooking the farm buildings 
and the meadows and fields converted 
into a lawn, a beautiful terraced gar¬ 
den was built near the house and shade 
trees, ornamental evergreens and shrubs 
were planted. With the character of 
the ground so completely changed, the 
transformation of the barnyard into a 
formal outdoor pool with flowers and 
ornamental evergreens does not seem 
so out of place. 
The barn was torn down shortly after 
the landscape changes were made, the 
foundations and the partition walls to 
the second floor remaining. The ac¬ 
companying plan shows these walls and 
also shows the parts which were re¬ 
moved and the additions necessary to 
make a suitable enclosure for the swim¬ 
ming pool. 
The building, according to the usual 
custom was built on the southern slope 
of the hill, so that the open part faced 
the sun and was protected from the cold 
north and west winds. This wall now 
forms the north boundary for the pool 
enclosure, and if you will glance at the 
plan you will see how the space within 
the enclosure is laid out. The base 
planting of evergreens next to the walls 
bordered with hardy perennials: then 
the grass panel and a walk of random- 
size stones set in the sod around the 
pool. 
Above the north wall is a platform, 
all that is left of the old “barn bridge’’ 
which as usually planned with the old 
barns made it possible to drive wagons 
and farm implements into the second 
floor of the building, the natural grade 
of the hill at the north being about 
level with the second floor of the 
building. This high platform at the 
back of the wall is an ideal location 
now, for a tea house or pergola over¬ 
looking the swimming pool and a view 
of the lovely hills and valleys beyond 
it to the south. 
The changes in the masonry had to 
be made carefully. The original walls 
were built of local field stone, random 
sizes and shapes, and held together with 
lime mortar. As a precaution, the walls 
to remain were repointed with cement 
mortar, the joints being left rough or 
“raked”. 
AH the suitable stone from the old 
partitions and other sections which were 
removed was saved and used for build¬ 
ing the new parts of the wall and for 
bringing them to the correct level. 
The character of the new masonry 
was, of course, made to match the old 
as nearly as possible, and a 3" coping 
of flat local stone laid on the entire 
wall, helped to give a uniform finish. 
The old foundation at the north is 
about 8' high and the one at the south 
(the old barnyard wall) about 3'. This 
was left low so that it would not in¬ 
terfere with the view beyond. The top 
of the side walls does not slope between 
the eight foot north wall and the low 
front wall, but drops with ramps at 
regular intervals. 
Vines of English ivy and Euonymous 
vegatus have been planted along the 
base of the enclosure and in time will 
form a green background for the ever¬ 
green planting. This planting is com¬ 
posed entirely of plants transplanted 
from the very thick groupings already 
on the grounds. There was a double 
advantage in using these plants, the 
thinning out of the groups was badly 
needed as the plants were crowding one 
another in several instances, damaging 
valuable specimens and at the same time 
large plants making an immediate effect 
were available for the new planting. 
A broad flight of steps of local stone 
leads from the enclosure about midway 
between the north and south bound¬ 
aries, at this point, the rise to the nat¬ 
ural grade of the ground outside the 
wall is only about 2'. These steps lead 
to a winding walk through the trees 
to the terraced garden several hundred 
feet away. 
These instances have been given to 
show what was done with three foun¬ 
dations. Each could have been han¬ 
dled in several ways, you will find each 
problem will always suggest several sol¬ 
utions. The development decided upon, 
of course, will be governed by the ex¬ 
isting conditions and your inclinations. 
I have seen lovely sunken gardens, cozy 
summer house enclosures, bird sanctu¬ 
aries, rose gardens, formal pools, nat¬ 
uralistic pools and rockeries, all trans¬ 
formations of old foundations. It is 
fascinating work to make these changes 
and well worth careful forethought and 
planning, and when the work is fin¬ 
ished. you have the satisfaction of 
knowing that your garden is a little 
different and its history will always 
make an added interest to you and your 
friends. 
PLANTING YOUNG TREES 
A LARGE' portion of newly planted 
trees die the first year, accord¬ 
ing to the Nebraska Agricultural 
College. Improper planting or careless 
handling of trees before planting is 
usually responsible for the largest share 
of the loss. The roots of the trees 
should be protected from exposure to 
sun and wind during the planting 
operation. They may be wrapped in 
wet gunny sacks or placed in a barrel 
or pail of thin mud. 
The important things to bear in 
mind in planting the trees are: The 
hole must be large enough to receive 
the roots without cramping and deep 
enough so that the tree will stand 
three or four inches deeper than it was 
in the nursery; some loose, moist, sur¬ 
face dirt should be placed in the bot¬ 
tom of the hole; the tree should be in¬ 
serted in the hole so that the lowest 
permanent branch would be on the 
southwest side of the tree and the 
tree leaned to that side to counteract 
the tendency to grow to the north; 
the dirt should be firmed by stamping 
at least twice during planting process. 
In order to pack the soil firmly about 
the roots, at least 2" or 3" should be 
left unpacked as a mulch. 
The mistake is often made in plant¬ 
ing trees and other plants of not get¬ 
ting the soil firmly packed about the 
roots or allowing air spaces about the 
roots. This may be prevented by 
shaking the tree up and down as the 
dirt is applied and firmed. 
When the trees are dug from the 
nursery row many of the feeding 
roots are left in the ground and it is 
necessary to remove some of the top 
of the trees in order to more nearly 
establish a balance between the tops 
and the roots. This pruning should 
be given immediately after the tree has 
been set. 
The following points should be kept 
in mind when performing this opera¬ 
tion: Three or four branches should 
be left in addition to the central leader. 
The lowest of these branches should 
be on the southwest side to prevent 
sun scald; the branches should be four 
or five inches apart and on different 
sides of the trunk in order to avoid 
crotches; the branches that are left 
should be cut off eight or ten inches 
from the trunk and the leader short¬ 
ened back two-thirds. All other 
branches should be removed close up to 
the trunk. Alfred I. Wilder. 
