126 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
February, 1914 
Twenty-five Years of Proof 
“I built a house 25 years ago and the same shingles on to-day. 
Rebuilt another five years ago, and in each case Cabot’s Creo¬ 
sote Stain in good shape. Candidly I’m afraid to build without 
using it.” 
Edwin F. Garman, Bellefonte, Pa. 
Cabot’s Creosote Stains 
saved him the expense of re-shingling and re-stain¬ 
ing. They preserve the wood and lastingly beautify 
it. You protect yourself from tawdry, fading colors 
and rotting shingles by being sure that Cabot’s are 
used. 
You can get Cabot's Stains all over the country. Send 
for samples on wood and name of nearest agent. 
SAMUEL CABOT, Inc., Manfg. Chemists, 11 Oliver St. 
BOSTON, MASS. 
Garden Suggestions and Queries 
(Continued from page 123) 
you need any new sash, mats or shutters, 
order them immediately. If your equip¬ 
ment does not include a sash or two of the 
new double-glass type, by all means in¬ 
vest in some. They are more expensive 
than the standard sort, but very much 
more efficient, especially where one has no, 
or a limited supply of, manure for furnish¬ 
ing heat in the frames. If the frames 
themselves have any cracks, holes or knot¬ 
holes, cover them with a couple of thick¬ 
nesses of tar or building paper, and if pos¬ 
sible bank them up well with the ashes 
from the furnace. 
If you are planning to have a hotbed 
with manure heat, get the material ready 
for it at once. You want clean, fresh 
manure, without much straw, and no 
coarse, lumpy, bedding material. Stack it 
up in a square, compact heap; tramp it 
down well, if it is at all dry, give it a 
good soaking, especially toward the center, 
with water. If you can get enough 
leaves, short straw, or some material of 
that sort, to the amount of about one-third, 
in bulk, of the manure, mix it through the 
heap. After the heap has stood for several 
days, and become thoroughly heated 
through from the process of decomposi¬ 
tion, re-stack it, putting the outside in the 
middle of the new heap. Repeat this once 
or twice more, until the whole mass is of 
a uniform consistency and actively de¬ 
composing, when it will be ready to go into 
the frame. Remove several inches of the 
surface soil, and put in the manure to a 
depth of eight to eighteen inches, accord¬ 
ing to the season, climate, what it is 
wanted for, etc. Tramp the manure down 
hard and replace the soil. If it is still 
lumpy and partly frozen, put it on as 
evenly as possible and leave it to thaw out, 
keeping the frames covered as tightly as 
possible, but removing shutters or mats 
during the day, so that the sunshine, which 
will run the temperature up quite remark¬ 
ably when the sash is kept closed, may be 
taken full advantage of. You should 
get the frames, either hotbed or cold- 
frame, thawed out and warmed up as far 
in advance as possible of the time you plan 
to begin actual planting or sowing. 
The perennial but ever important job of 
plant starting will be in order directly. 
Here are the things you need for it: seeds, 
flats, prepared soil, a fine-spray watering 
can, and of course a suitable place in which 
to start them. 
Making a New Home from an 
Old House 
( Continued, from page 108) 
lawn-mower in a way that must be torture 
to it. When I come out from breakfast 
I am greeted with a grieved expression 
and: “Dees’a lawn-mo’, no good !” Then 
I have to adjust it anew, and call down all 
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