The New Way to Succeed with Dahlias 
AN IMPROVED METHOD OF CULTIVATION FROM TUBERS WHICH ENSURES EARLY 
GROWTH—DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING AND THE CARE OF THE BLOOMS 
HE planting of dahlia bulbs is many 
years behind the times, according to 
the experts who have an open eye to 
these things. England no longer 
uses the bulbs at all, but sends them 
to America, retaining only the tuber’s 
shoots at home for her own crop. 
These produce earlier results and better, the yield in dowers being 
decidedly increased, according to those who have tried it. 
Here is the entire cycle to be followed: in March, take all the 
tubers from their storage quarters and spread them out on papers 
on the cellar door, or in any convenient place which allows the 
space. Sort them over and reject all that have not kept well. Now, 
with a sharp knife divide the perfect ones by cutting the stems in 
sections lengthwise, making as many sections as there are tubers 
attached to the stem. Every tuber must have a small piece of the 
main stem attached—this is absolutely necessary. 
Now, plant the tubers on their sides in soil in a box or pots, to 
start the sprouts. Water them as you would water any indoor 
plant—not often enough to keep them soaking, but as often as 
the earth indicates the need of it by showing dry on top. When the 
sprouts have grown to good, strong little plants about four inches 
long, or high, cut them from the tuber and plant them in other 
pots or boxes. Paper pots are convenient, as they may be set out 
from these when the time comes, without disturbing the roots in 
the least. 
In these pots they are to remain until the weather is warm 
enough for outdoor planting—which is in June, usually, in this 
latitude. Have strong stakes ready when this time comes, dve feet 
high or higher for the very tall varieties, and set one drmly by the 
side of each plant when it is put in the ground. Tie the plant at 
once to this with raffia—or better, with a piece of soft, narrow 
cloth. I have found the very best tying 
material to be a stocking or sock, cut any 
desired width, around and around. Begin 
at the top and cut one continuous piece, 
spiral-like, until the toe is reached; then 
roll into a ball. This makes a soft, clinging 
and enduring material. 
Tie the dahlia again at intervals as it 
grows taller. When the plants have 
reached the height of two feet, pinch out 
the main bud, to make it branch and grow 
in bush form ; this form will produce more 
flowers. 
If, however, one prefers to plant the 
tubers instead of the sprouts, separate ex¬ 
actly as directed in the beginning, and 
plant single tubers instead of clumps. 
Planting in the usual way, m clumps, re¬ 
sults in much leaf and a dearth of flowers. 
Lay the single tubers, with their little bit 
of main stem attached, on their sides at a 
depth of four to six inches in soil spaded 
and prepared to a depth of at least eight 
inches. Plant them no nearer than three 
feet apart, and do not round up the earth 
over the tuber. Rather let it be a little 
by Anna Pitt 
depressed, to hold moisture until it is absorbed by the soil. 
Dahlias grow best well out of the reach of the roots of trees 
or shrubs, and where they have plenty of room and sunshine. 
Keep the ground cultivated around them and free from weeds— 
and if you wish exceptionally large flowers, allow only one shoot 
from a tuber to grow. They require a great deal of moisture, yet 
it is better never to water them. Keep the moisture from getting 
away during dry seasons by cultivating. The secret of success 
always is, ‘‘keep the plants growing.” Short, extra stakes may 
be provided for the side branches, if these are allowed to grow, as 
dahlia stems are brittle, and a strong wind almost any day may 
break them off. 
The best food for growing dahlias is ground bone and muriate 
of potash—one part of the latter to three parts of the former. 
When the plants come into full bloom, cut the flowers freely, and 
you will have a generous supply. Cutting promotes blossoming. 
The dahlia will grow in almost any soil, but does the best in a 
sandy one. Indeed, it will grow in pebbles. If you can select 
from several kinds, choose a light loam with very good drainage; 
and it is well to add a little well-rotted manure if the soil is weak. 
But note particularly that an excess of fertilizer of this nature 
will produce a leafy growth at the expense of flowers. They may 
be fed from the surface by spreading manure or commercial fer¬ 
tilizer over the ground around the plant when it reaches a height 
of fifteen inches or more, and forking it in lightly. 
It is best to purchase dahlias here rather than to import the 
tubers, for seventy-five per cent, of those imported cannot be 
successfully grown here, owing to unfavorable climatic condi¬ 
tions. Growing them from seed is interesting, and the plants will 
bloom the first year. They rarely come true to color, however; 
but the surprises of new colors and shades are very pleasing, 
especially in the single ones. The seeds themselves may safely be 
planted out of doors in May; or the plants 
may be started in the hotbed or in pots 
and transplanted into the ground about 
June. Preserve the seedling tubers in the 
fall, just as the others are preserved, for 
at least two years, growing them for a 
final selection of color and blossom. 
When dahlias have stopped blooming, or 
when frost touches the leaves, dig them up 
on a sunny day; let them dry in the sun 
for half a day; then take them under 
shelter. When thoroughly dry, wrap each 
clump in a newspaper; tag with a label 
telling name and color, and pack away in a 
cool, dry place until another March. This 
completes the life cycle of one of the love¬ 
liest of flowers. 
There are. of course, many varieties of 
dahlias—all lovely enough to suit all tastes. 
It is a matter of personal preference 
whether you will have tall bushes or 
shrubby ones, showy or quiet tones. Do 
be sure to have them in clumps of color, 
however, whatever you choose, rather than 
hem where each will fight for 
(Continued on page 303) 
The secret of dahlia cultivation is to ‘‘keep the plants 
growing.” When about a foot high the shoots should 
be secured to stout stakes 
mingle 
