HOUSE AND GARDEN 
April, 
1914 
SATISFACTION ROSES 
AND HARDY PLANTS 
I F any one’s roses and hardy plants will give you 
satisfaction, these from Cromwell Gardens will. 
For forty years we have been growing roses. 
Right now we have some exceptionally fine ones in 
large pots that when planted in your garden will go 
right on growing and start blooming as happily as if 
still growing right here in Cromwell Gardens. 
Altogether our catalog lists one hundred and fifty 
varieties for outdoors, and some thirty or more for 
the greenhouses. Every one of them tested varieties 
We stand back of them and know they will eive 
satisfaction. 
As for our Hardy Plants. Ours grew in the open last summer 
and were]potted in the fall. We feel that we never have handled 
a finer lot. Good, husky, full rooted plants, every one of them. 
Planted in your garden this spring, they ought to bloom this 
summer. 
Don’t fuss with planting seeds and then have to wait two years 
for blooms, when you can buy Satisfaction Plants like these that 
will bloom first year. 
Send for our catalog. Make out your list and get your order in 
early, so we can ship it just as early as you wish. You’ll like 
that catalog. It contains a lot of plain, everyday, common- 
sense gardening suggestions to aid you in making your garden 
i.i keeping with your home. 
ANPiei^son INC 
Cromwell Conn 
niuuHiitmi',- 
ORSFORD’S 
Cold 
Weather 
Plants 
and Flower Seeds that Grow 
r Flowering Plants, Shrubs, Trees, Vines, Wild 
Flowers, Hardy Ferns, Lilies, etc. — for sun and for 
shade. Raised in the rigorous climate of Vermont. 
Will thrive in the cold north or the sunny south. 
Get our new catalog before placing your spring 
orders—we have just what you need. Write to-day. 
F. H. HORSFORD, Charlotte, Vt. 
GOLF FOR THE LATE BEGINNER 
By HENRY HUGHES 
The title describes precisely the purpose of this 
practical book. The author himself took up the game 
in middle age, and with his experience fresh upon 
him explains the correct principles of golf in a way 
especially helpful to the late beginner. The illustra¬ 
tions are from actual photographs, showing correct 
and incorrect methods, also he various positions for 
the different strokes. Illustrated. 60 cents net. 
Postage, 5 cents. 
McBride, Nast & Co., New York 
Dreer’s Dahlias 
W E grew more than SO acres last 
year. Over 800 varieties in¬ 
cluding the cream of the world’s 
novelties as well as the best of the old 
favorites. 
is absolutely necessary to all who wish to keep down-to-date 
on the Dahlia interest which is sweeping over the country. 
Mailed FREE. Pleaae mention thia publication. 
PtBony-flowered Dahlia. 
HENRY A. DREER, 714 Chestnut St., Philadelphia | 
As cut flowers for decorating or 
sending to friends, nothing equals 
Dahlias in the late summer or fall. You 
can cut them by the armful every day 
from even a small bed. The newer 
types are a revelation to most people. 
Dreer’s Special Dahlia Catalogue 
leaves that desirable dark-green color and 
the plants a strong start. 
One of the fine points about getting 
sweet corn early is to pick just the right 
time tor planting. The inferior-quality 
extra earlies can go in about as soon as 
danger from hard frosts is over — from 
middle of April to middle of May, ac¬ 
cording to locality and season. But the 
later real “sugar” sorts, in damp, cold 
soil, are pretty sure to pot. The trees 
are usunally well in leaf before it is safe 
to plant them. Covering the seed for the 
first planting an inch or so deep will 
often save seed that would otherwise be 
lost. Quick-growing varieties, such as 
Cosmopolitan and Golden Bantam, may 
be planted until as late as the first to the 
middle of July, to furnish a supply of 
ears for late fall, until killing frosts. 
Ears that are fairly well developed will 
usually mature even after the foliage is 
touched by the first frosts. These late 
plantings should he made quite deep, 
especially if the soil is very dry near the 
surface. Under such conditions, three 
inches will not he too much. 
Tt is the general practice to plant corn 
in “hills.” People have the habit of doing 
it that way. They got the habit because, 
where corn is planted in large areas, it 
is convenient to “work” it both ways 
with a cultivator, to save hand work. 
But in the case of the person with a • 
small garden no such reason exists. I 
am convinced that more and better corn 
may he grown, with no more trouble, by 
sowing thinly in drills. The stalks left to 
mature should stand six to nine inches 
apart. Some thinning may be required; 
hut this usually is, or should be, done 
where it is planted in hills. But the indi¬ 
vidual stalks will have more room in 
which to develop, and there will be more 
of them. Besides this, especially if the 
rows run east and west — which is pre¬ 
ferable. if it can conveniently be man¬ 
aged—the ground will be shaded sooner 
and better than where the stalks are 
growing in hills; an item well worth con¬ 
sidering in a dry season. 
Another old method which is still per¬ 
sistently clung to in the small garden is 
to “hill up” corn as much as possible. 
Except on heavy soil or during a very 
wet season there is no reason for doing 
this; in fact, there are good reasons for 
not doing it. In the first place, corn is a 
very shallow feeder, the roots running 
near the surface, and where earth is 
heaped up in a series of little mounds it 
naturally dries out much more quickly 
than where it is left level. Then, too, 
high hilling makes it more difficult to 
keep the ground clean to the end of the 
season; and to spade up and prepare 
again for the following crop. 
Corn requires a great amount of water. 
Therefore, cultivation should be frequent 
enough to maintain an effectual dust 
mulch all the time. But, as the root sys¬ 
tem develops near the surface of the soil, 
you will have to be very careful, espe- 
ln writing to advertisers please mention House & Garden 
