Cut tobacco stems make good nesting material, and besides will pre¬ 
vent lice 
When the nestlings are in this stage, great care in feeding must be 
exercised 
Healthy squabs should be in condition for the table at the end of 
four weeks 
Successful Squab Raising 
PRATICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE SELECTION, 
CARE AND HOUSING OF BROOD PIGEONS 
by Mary Nelms 
W ITH very little trouble it is entirely possible for anyone with a 4 by 5 
back yard and even a Brownie pocketbook to have plenty of 
delicious, juicy squabs, so plump that they make almost a ball when the 
legs are drawn well up and the breast so full that the bone shows only as a 
dark line down the center. It is not necessary to have the extra-large 
size — the jumbo squab—to obtain this rich flesh. Healthy stock and proper 
feeding will make thin birds the exception in any size, though, of course, 
the best are always large, weighing nine and ten pounds to the dozen. 
The varieties of pigeons are many, each breed with its own faults and its 
own virtues, each with its admirers and its scorners. The majestic appear¬ 
ance of the fantail is often marred by the discoloration of the beautiful tail- 
feathers where they have been dragged on the ground; for his wonderfully 
graceful gymnastic feats, the tumbler must have his freedom, and then — 
the neighbors' gardens, to say nothing of your own. Other breeds present 
various oddities of form and habit. Even when squabs are the main pur¬ 
pose of the pen, opinions differ somewhat as to the best breed, though most 
people agree that it is mighty hard to beat the straight homer. He is beau¬ 
tiful in appearance, sturdy and very prolific, and, while he may be easily 
trained for distance flying, he is perfectly healthy and contented when con¬ 
fined. In fact, he works much better with nothing to distract his attention 
from home duties. 
To raise pigeons successfully, whether for pleasure or for table use, two 
conditions are absolutely essential — healthy stock and sanitary quarters. 
The idea that “any old box” is good enough for pigeons is a thing of the 
past. The pigeon cote should receive full consideration as a definite part of 
the scheme of out-buildings, the architecture harmonizing with its surround¬ 
ings ; the long, covered yards or flies effectively screened with climbing 
roses, California privet, or other tall-growing shrubbery. It is wiser not 
to allow vines to climb over the yards proper, as the birds may find some¬ 
thing injurious in the foliage or flowers. If it is a question of utilizing a 
building already erected, a little ingenuity will remove any objectionable 
appearance, and the interior of the pens can easily be made convenient for 
cleaning and entirely serviceable for the birds. 
For ordinary amateur work with a flock of fifty pairs of pigeons, most 
satisfactory results will be realized in a building with a floor space of 12 by 
16 feet, 5 feet 6 under the eaves, and 9 feet at the peak. The house should 
be raised a foot or 18 inches above the ground, on posts that can be 
made rat-proof by bands of tin, and should run as nearly east and west as 
possible, the southern exposure opening into the flies. Inside of the north 
wall run an alley 3 feet wide, with a small window in the center for 
ventilation, and divide the remaining space by a wooden partition into two 
(Continued on page 409) 
With ihe proper conditions of food and housing, the raising of squabs for the table is both pleasurable and profitable 
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