May, 1914 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
415 
especially cobbles, give the feeling that 
they may at any moment roll from their 
places, and in truth they would if it were 
not for mortar holding them together. 
The spaces between the large stones are 
filled with smaller ones, but it is best to 
keep those more for the interior of the 
wall than for the outer faces. It is not 
well to make a dry wall less than two 
feet in thickness. This at the top, for a 
small batter or inclination toward the 
center helps the stability. This thickness 
is for a wall of 3 feet or less in height. 
For every 6 inches additional height the 
width should be increased 4 inches. All 
stones of a straighter character should by 
all means be laid on their natural beds. 
They are not then as liable to scale. 
The top of a dry wall may be finished 
level, with the stones as they come or 
have a coping. The coping can be of 
broad, flat stones laid dry covering the 
entire width of the top, or they may be 
set in cement mortar, the interstices be¬ 
ing well slushed up with the mortar. 
The life of any stone wall or pier is 
increased if it is carried below the frost 
line, which should be from 3 to 4 feet. 
But this is too expensive in proportion to 
the cost of a dry wall. In a wall of cut 
stone laid up in mortar it is more neces¬ 
sary, as any settlement or heaving will 
show cracks in a wall of this character. 
A wall set in cement mortar is natural¬ 
ly more permanent. Each stone is then 
held firmly to its neighbor, and the whole 
becomes almost a monolith; especially is 
this true when all crevices are well filled 
up with the mortar. There are several 
ways in which a wall of this kind may 
be laid up. The joints between the stones 
are often filled with the mortar flush to 
the outer surfaces of the stones. By this 
method truer and more even faces are 
secured. Sometimes the joints are raked 
out. That is, the mortar does not come 
out to the surface, but stops anywhere 
from one-half to two inches back. If it 
is carried in deep enough the efifect of a 
dry wall is the result. In a very thick 
wall, say three feet, mortar is only neces¬ 
sary in the center, and this also has 
the appearance of a dry wall. The meth¬ 
od of laying is determined largely upon 
the nature of the stones and kind of sur¬ 
face wished for. If the stones have 
rounding faces it is a saving in mortar 
not to make a flush finish, for, as some 
stones are bound to project beyond others, 
it would be necessary to bring the mortar 
to the outer faces of these. But this 
would probably cover up many of the 
stones that did not project. However, 
some charming walls have been built 
where about 50% of the surface showed 
stone and the other half cement. The 
appearance here and there of a stone con¬ 
trasting with the cement makes an in¬ 
teresting color effect. 
In masonry terminology, the walls de¬ 
scribed above would be called rubble. 
Rubble is the simplest and least formal 
type; the stones are irregular in all di- 
Mauran, Russell & Crowell, Architects. 
Residence of Harry Lesser, St. Louis. 
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