June, 1914 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
463 
In scale and suitable detail with the rest of the house, this wing makes possible a 
porch and an outdoor sleeping room as well 
The portico with columns affords a logical place for the sleeping porch, in that it 
gives the appearance as well as the fact of adequate support 
Houses built on an uneven site may answer the outdoor sleeping room and porch 
problem in some variation of this manner 
thing is to make the porch a unit in the main structure, and if a 
substantial effect is thereby required the main roof supports may 
be widened into piers without appreciably affecting the air circu¬ 
lation inside provided that at least two-thirds of the length of the 
outer wall of the porch be left open. 
In order to protect the occupants against driving storms, the 
window-heads should be kept low; seven feet four is enough, and 
of this about five feet may be assigned to the sash, and two feet 
four to the space below it. These dimensions might be slightly 
reduced, but should not be much increased if good protection is 
desired. The distance from the window-heads to the ceiling is of 
less consequence; eight inches is enough, and if the ceiling comes 
naturally at a higher level it may be furred down to it, as excessive 
height of wall over the windows gives the porch a gloomy effect. 
Main piers or posts may occur at from ten to twelve-foot inter¬ 
vals. The space between these must, for most types of enclosure, 
be subdivided by mullions into spaces varying from two to three 
Although rather too prominent in this instance, the sleeping porch over the entrance 
is usually a satisfactory means of solving the problem 
feet in width, and sometimes a transom bar and transom sash 
may be used to advantage. The wider the sash are, the more 
heavy and clumsy they will be. The sills of the openings should 
be formed with a “wash" or slope toward the outside like a 
window sill, not be fiat, like a parapet cap. 
Even with the window-heads as low as suggested, more or less 
water is likely to enter, and to take care of this the floor should 
have an outward pitch of an inch in every four or five feet. If a 
solid parapet be used, either floor drains must be provided, or a 
gutter be formed just behind it. With a sheathed balustrade, 
having top and bottom rails, the bottom rail may be kept up just 
clear of the floor so that the water will run out underneath. 
Should a tight floor be necessary, painted canvas is as good as any¬ 
thing on frame construction ; on fireproof work, tile, cement or 
similar materials may be laid upon a layer of tar and felt in the 
usual way. 
Before going far with the design it may be well to consider 
