100 
House & Garden 
^ot 
a 
‘Varnish 
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a 
‘Paint 
I NTRODUCING GRAULITE (Formula Patent¬ 
ed) to its future users among Home Owners, 
Prospective Builders, Architects, Decorators, 
Manufacturers of Fine Furniture, and Manufac¬ 
turers who use Wood Products. 
GRAULITE, The Master Finish for wood, is 
the result of years of experimentation in producing 
a beautiful, transparent, durable and impervious 
finish for all woods, yet a finish which would effect 
a saving in the time and labor involved in its 
application. 
GRAULITE is unique in that it is a Filler, Stain 
and Finish in one. 
GRAULITE is not a paint, nor a varnish; neither 
does it contain shellac nor other materials ordinarily 
used in the manufacture of paint and varnish. 
GRAULITE is not merely a surface finish; it 
enters into and becomes a part of the wood fibres. 
GRAULITE is the master finish for wood trim, 
furniture and floors, bringing out the utmost 
natural beauty of the wood and achieving a surface 
which will withstand wear, marring and water. 
GRAULITE, applied to floors, will accomplish in 
two hours what ordinary methods of floor finishing 
require at least twenty-four hours. A GRAULITE 
finished floor can be walked on immediately after 
application. 
GRAULITE is a revolutionary method of wood 
treatment, like nothing else, now placed on the 
market in its perfected state. 
Write for the booklet on “Graulite, 
the Master Finish for Wood”, together 
zuith Architectural Specification cov¬ 
ering the application of Graulite. Sam¬ 
ple panels, on the zvood you are using, 
zvill he furnished on request. 
W. F. GRAUL CO., INC 
4 1 Pleasant Street, 
Northampton, Massachusetts 
THE CANNED GARDEN 
{Continued from page 98) 
4. Glass jars: self-sealing but after 
it is sealed you cannot open it 
for any reason during the proc¬ 
essing. These have a lacquered 
metal top. Around the top is a 
narrow lining of a composition 
which when heated softens and 
sticks to the glass and, while the 
adhering is going on, the wire 
clamp holds it together and is 
removed after it is sealed. 
4. Glass Jars: with flat metal cap 
over the rubber ring and a brace¬ 
let ring with thread and over¬ 
lapping top edge which, when 
screwed over, holds the top se¬ 
curely. These tops can be used 
indefinitely. 
The Office of Home Economics at 
Washington says this about containers; 
“if the old-fashioned screw-top jar is 
used good caps are essential for safety. 
After having been used, the edge of this 
cap becomes flared and the porcelain 
lining frequently is loosened from the 
top. This lid then not only is difficult 
to sterilize but may fail to give an air¬ 
tight seal.” So if you have such jars 
around use them for canning fruits and 
other things which are simpler to can 
than vegetables. 
It is a wise precaution to place a hot 
towel under jars when filling them with 
“hot stuff”. Especially when your table 
top has a glass or composition top. ' 
In testing the hermetically sealed jars, 
if after twenty-four hours, you can lift 
them by their lids without mishap, 
the sealing is safe. Also, invert the 
screw-topped jars and a leak will soon 
show. 
ELECTRIC CANNING AND PRESERVING 
There is nothing so delightful as the 
simplicity of canning in the electric 
kitchen. 
The chief value of electric ovens and 
fireless cookers used in this way, par¬ 
ticularly with the “cold-pack” method, 
is the uniform temperature which elec¬ 
trical heating supplies. This does away 
with all possibility of imperfect or 
intermittent sterilization, which, as those 
versed in bacteriological matters know, 
allows the development of the spores 
that will later become bacteria and pro¬ 
duce fermentation. Moreover, the 
flavor of fruits or vegetables is found 
to be greatly superior when the un¬ 
varying heat of electricity is applied. 
After the preliminaries are done covers 
are then put on loosely and the cans 
set in the electric oven or electric fire¬ 
less cooker to be maintained at a tem¬ 
perature of 212° Fahrenheit for the 
specified time. This length of time for 
the “processing”, varies with different 
vegetables and fruits. Processing com¬ 
pleted, the cans are ready for cooling 
and putting away to furnish delectables 
for future use. 
OPEN KETTLE METHOD 
Where it is desirable or necessary, as 
in the making of preserves, to use the 
open kettle method, the electric oven 
by no means loses its importance. The 
kettle containing the preserves, instead 
of being set on top of the stove and re¬ 
quiring constant stirring to prevent 
burning, is put bodily in the oven 
where heat reaches it with no danger 
of scorching. 
Drying by electricity, that is, with an 
electric fan, is, of course, nothing more 
than a new version of the drying our 
grandmothers and mothers used to do, 
except that now the process is applied 
to nearly all fruits and vegetables, in¬ 
cluding those which it would never 
have occurred to the old-fashioned 
housekeeper to treat in this way. The 
equipment required is simple and really 
inexpensive—an electric fan and a pile 
of drying trays. (Any home manager 
with ingenuity can fashion these her¬ 
self if she desires). These trays—usu¬ 
ally four in number—have wooden sides 
and bottoms of galvanized wire screen 
covered with a thickness of cheesecloth 
to prevent the possibility of discolor¬ 
ing the product. “Drying racks” they 
are called, and when the electric fan is 
placed in front of them, tilted slightly 
upward or at an angle of about 30°, the 
breeze plays up through the screen and 
in due course “dehydrates” the fruit or 
vegetables to a condition that allows of 
keeping them over the winter. They 
can be stored in muslin bags or paraffin 
paper containers and put away until 
needed. 
WALL TEXTURES inside the HOUSE 
(Continued from page 61) 
a limitation in the matter of texture, 
even if there was no limitation in color 
possibilities—and in houses not over- 
securely built there was, and is (why 
deny it?) the ever existing danger of 
cracks which occur even in the best 
plastering when the frame settles. Better 
plaster bases, more rigid metal lath, 
and other inv’entions, have gone far 
to minimize this danger, and sanded 
plaster finishes, tinted or painted, are as 
good as they ever were; in fact, they 
are better. 
But new architectural fashions began 
to demand something more in the way 
of textured plaster walls. First there 
were houses in the Italian villa manner, 
done in greater or less resemblance to 
their prototypes, and now, demanding 
textures even more textureful, there are 
Spanish interiors, done in ways ranging 
from fine and studious expressions of 
the style to things which a good art 
director would not accept for a motion 
picture set. From present indications 
we might as well make up our minds to 
a wave of popularity for interiors in, 
or near, the manner of the Spanish 
Renaissance. If they are well done, 
they can be e.xtraordinarily interesting 
and colorful, and can add a distinctly 
interesting and picturesque chapter to 
our compendium of adapted architec¬ 
tural styles. 
Also demanding rough plaster finishes, 
there are certain types of English coun¬ 
try houses, notably the mediaeval and 
Jacobean and the modern cottage types. 
Here rough plaster work is the natural 
and necessary complement to rough 
woodwork, tiled or flagged floors and 
that sort of thing. 
But rough plaster walls, obviously 
are exactly what not to think of in 
connection with any kind of Georgian 
interiors, 18th Century French interiors, 
chinoiseries, or any but the earlier types 
of interiors generally called “Colonial”. 
In these, and in many other types, 
paneling, brocades, silks, and wall 
papers will always remain the only 
conceivable wall treatments. 
One of the most varied and adaptable 
of all recently developed treatments for 
textured walls is one which is not even 
(Continued on page 102) 
