86 
House & Garden 
This pleasing and practical adaptation of 
Insuring Door-Lability— 
which includes Quiet! 
Y our home! How carefully you plan it to express 
your individuality, to fit your pleasant moods, to 
insure your comfort, repose, peacefulness. How es¬ 
sential is quiet there! And how much doors and 
their hinges have to do with Quiet! 
Hinges, the most vital fact of doors, are mostly 
taken for granted. But not by architects; not by 
builders; nor by those responsible for great hotels, 
for modern office-buildings. They make very sure 
of quiet doors. They select McKinney Hinges, for 
the sake of door-ability. 
“Door-able” is fact, not mere phrase, where 
McKinney is concerned. Any building worth using 
is worth hinges that keep doors able. Doors that are 
silent, smooth-working, when first hung true. Doors 
which work smoothly and silently as the years go on. 
Quiet doors! McKinney Hinges insure them. 
There are McKinney Hinges for every sort of use, 
and to conserve any sane economy in building. You 
get a clear idea of this from “Suggestions for the 
Home-builder,” a useful little book many have liked 
to utilize. May we mail you a copy? 
McKINNSY MANUFACTURING COMPANY 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 
Western Office: Wrigley Building, Chicago 
MCKINNEY 
Hinges and Butts and Hardware 
Garage hardware, door hangers and track, door bolts .and latches, shelf 
brackets, window and screen hardware, steel door mats and wrought specialties. 
HARSH TREATMENT jor TREE PESTS 
{Continued from page 84) 
care of trees either through the street 
department employing a city forester or 
a shade tree commission. A city or a 
large community can easily provide for 
the spraying of hundreds or thousands 
of trees because the cost of a power 
spraying outfit is not excessive in com¬ 
parison with the value of the many 
trees. Certain cities have also found it 
feasible to provide for the spraying of 
trees on private grounds at approxi¬ 
mate cost. 
The general care of the trees on the 
streets is bound to result in more at¬ 
tention being given to those privately 
owned and if the authorities of a city 
or village find it undesirable to provide 
for the care of private trees at approxi¬ 
mate cost, reliable tree protecting com¬ 
panies are in the field for all such work 
and can give better rates for a number 
of trees, and for that matter they are 
very willing to look after street trees. 
In some cases this may be the more 
economical solution. 
There is nothing better to control 
leaf feeders as a rule than arsenate of 
lead, used at the rate of about three 
pounds of paste or one and a half 
pounds of powder to fifty gallons of 
THE DELIGHT 
spray. Timely and thorough applica¬ 
tions of this poison should result in 
practical freedom from injury by leaf 
feeders, unless some very unusual con¬ 
ditions exist. 
One of the better and most generally 
used contact insecticides is nicotine sul¬ 
phate, forty per cent nicotine, used at 
the rate of one pint to one hundred 
gallons of water to which should be 
added six to eight pounds of any cheap 
soap in order to give spreading or 
crawling properties to the solution. 
This is a contact insecticide and must he 
thrown in such a way as actually to 
hit the insects. It is most effective upon 
young insects or those which are com¬ 
paratively unprotected, such as many of 
the plant lice. 
It is not necessary at the present 
time to accept unsatisfactory conditions 
so far as insect control on home trees 
is concerned. A very large degree of 
protection may be obtained at a reason¬ 
able cost if individuals or communities 
can be brought to see the possibilities 
along these lines. This protection, if 
the best results are to be obtained, 
should be systematic and extend 
throughout the trees' entire existence. 
of DAEEODILS 
(Contmued from page 66) 
description of his “host of golden daffo¬ 
dils” fluttering and dancing in the breeze 
as it sweeps across the lake. It is an 
ideal location for them as they should 
always be seen in masses—a group here, 
a group there—for then we are able 
to get the full benefit of their beauty. 
The beds and borders of the flower 
garden should have them interwoven 
with the perennials. But the rarest 
pleasure is afforded when we “natural¬ 
ize” them. They bring sunshine into 
shady places; they are beautiful in 
large clumps at the edge of the wood; 
or as a carpet for some open glade in 
the woodland itself; with their glory 
' reflected by some stream of water they 
are doubly beautiful; and in the rock 
garden against the cold gray masses of 
weather-beaten rock they bring new 
life and joy early in the year, a fore¬ 
taste of the beauty and the joyousness 
of the coming season. 
These sturdy blossoms of early spring 
do best in a light rich loam with a good 
drainage. The average garden soil is 
suitable, but if it is too heavy it may 
be lightened by the addition of a quan¬ 
tity of wood ashes, humus or leaf 
mold, or a little sand. Some daffodils, 
especially those which are most easily 
naturalized, prefer a turf loam, and do 
well in the open lawn. They enjoy a 
fair amount of sunshine, but prefer to 
be in partial shade part of the day 
which insures a longer period of bloom. 
.A general rule which may be applied 
with safety is that the paler a daffodil, 
the deeper the shade in which it will 
thrive. 
THE PL.XNTING ARRANGEMENT 
The bulbs should be set 3" or 4" 
apart and then covered with 2" or 3" 
of soil, 2" if it is heavy, and more if 
it is light and dry. The planting ar¬ 
rangement is a matter of personal choice, 
they are effective in long close-set 
single rows or in ribbons edging the 
beds and borders, in groups along the 
shrubbery border, or massed in a semi- 
shady spot, but they are always most 
effective in groups of five, ten, or more, 
as fancy directs throughout the border, 
under trees, or at the water’s edge. 
As these flowers are very easy to 
naturalize in the lawn, the meadow, or 
the woodland which is open enough to 
allow some sunlight, it is practical to 
tuck in a few hundred and let them 
develop as they will. They should be 
located where they will not be molested 
by early spring mowing, however, for 
they should have ample time to finish 
their period of bloom and ripen or 
cure themselves if they are to bloom 
year after year, and increase. They 
grow more slowly in such locations, it 
is not necessary to move them about 
except every three or four years, for 
in this time they are apt to become too 
crowded for their own good. 
TREATMENT IN THE GARDEN 
Those which are planted in the gar¬ 
den where there is a certain amount of 
cultivation and frequent fertilizing, 
however, need to be lifted every other 
year, divided, and reset for they be¬ 
come so matted together that they will 
send up nothing but lush foliage, and 
many buds which blast. Before re¬ 
planting the soil should be thoroughly 
worked and a little well rotted manure 
or bone meal worked into it. 
In planting daffodils many pleasing 
pictures may be created if we will re¬ 
member to inter plant them with per¬ 
ennials and annuals which bloom at 
the same time, or if we will give them 
locations under and in front of flower¬ 
ing shrubs and small trees which have 
a wealth of bloom or graceful young 
foliage in the early spring. Purple au- 
brietia and the snowy arabis, two 
pleasing rock cresses, the creeping phlox 
subulata both white and pale lavender 
but never the magenta, forget-me-nots, 
pansies and violas, columbines, dicen¬ 
tra, corydalis, and meadow rue with 
their beautiful gray green foliage and 
interesting blossoms, all make pleasing 
notes of contrast. While the crab and 
common apple, the cherries, the plums, 
the shad bush, forsythia, Japanese 
quince, dogwood, willows, and similar 
others make exquisite backgrounds and 
compose with the nodding masses of 
{Continued on page 88) 
