100 
House & Garden 
To open — 
tur7i lode iip 
To lode — 
turn lock down 
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THE FAMILY OF PINKS 
{Continued from page 98) 
out in the border in September or 
October and carried over with a light 
winter protection. They will bloom 
from July on till frost, if faded flowers 
are kept cut. In fact, we have carried 
over the same plants for two years 
and still received abundant flowers. 
These pinks should receive a light small 
stake and be bound loosely with raffia, 
otherwise they will sprawl and drag 
their flowers in the dust. 
The Cheddar pinks—whose name re¬ 
minds us of excellent cheese—grow into 
flat low mats in a short time when 
given good soil. They begin to raise 
their buds on thin, wiry stems in mid- 
May and by the first of June the green- 
gray foliage is hidden under solid dabs 
of white and light and darkish pink. 
Since the plants increase so fast it is 
necessary to give them yearly division 
so that the centers won’t die out. 
Cheddar pinks can be used for the 
border and will appreciate a rich soil, 
although it is more pleasant to furnish 
them with a position that approximates 
their habitat—the top of a wall, or a 
space between rocks or along the edge 
of a broken flag walk. The position 
should afford good drainage. The Ched¬ 
dars and the garden pinks—D. plu- 
marius—share with the other members 
of the family a penchant for lime in 
the soil. All of these should be spaced 
a foot apart when finally set out. 
Sweet William, of course, is easily 
raised and the percentage of seed ger¬ 
mination would have done Roosevelt’s 
heart good. It is quick and abundant. 
Keep the seedlings growing along and 
in September place them in the border 
where they are to bloom next year. 
After they have finished blooming, rip 
them out and fill the place with annuals 
held in readiness—a shoal of blue lark¬ 
spur faced down with golden calendulas, 
or a mat of French marigolds or a 
covering of scarlet verbena and lavender 
ageratum, or one might even use sweet 
alyssum. Sweet William can be cut 
back after flowering and carried over 
more than one season, but the second i 
year’s bloom is not satisfactory as the 
first and, besides, new batches of plants 
can so easily be raised from seed you i 
save yourself from the desired colors. 
Although the pheasant eyed types are 
amusing, they are not nearly so effective 
en masse as those with a single color. 
Under the head of the border pinks 
come several desirable varieties. Miss 
Sinkins, clove pinks and others under 
well-known names. These are hardy. 
Their flowers are quite large and their 
fragrance very satisfying except to those 
who have hay fever. They should be 
used as edging plants in borders and 
in this position stand up quite stiff 
and wiry, needing no support. Later 
on in the season they get scrawny and 
the plant should be divided each year 
lest the middle part die out. Favorite 
varieties can be increased by layering, 
which consists in slitting the under side 
of a stalk just below a joint and bury¬ 
ing it with a handful of soil. This done 
in July, the layer will take root and be i 
ready for cutting apart from the parent i 
plant in September. 
The firm of Allwood Brothers in 
England have succeeded in creating a 
new race of hardy border pinks which 
come in a variety of colors and approxi- i 
mate in size the envied and aristocratic i 
hothouse carnation varieties of this fam- I 
ily. They have a further advantage: ! 
the average border pinks, D. plumarius, j 
give a comparatively short season of i 
bloom whereas the Allwoodii pinks, be- ,■ 
ing a cross between the common pink i 
and the perpetual flowering carnation, j 
flower from June until autumn. They i 
come in white, pink and purple, and 
variations of these colors and in single ( 
and double forms. They require a sunny 
position and a soil that is not too i 
heavy. Those Allwoodii pinks are now • 
available in America. 
HOW to BUILD ^ POOL 
{Continued from page 62) 
center of the wall. Then, in case 
of freezing inside or outside the pool, 
the pressure will not be a direct thrust 
against the walls but a glancing thrust, 
which is much less dangerous. Precau¬ 
tions of this kind may seem far-fetched. 
They are often eliminated and the pools 
often survive. They add little to the 
cost and are certainly worth their ex¬ 
pense in the peace of mind they give 
the pool owner. 
Usually forms are set on the inside of 
the side walls only, the ground on the 
outside being cut down sharply and 
cleanly to serve as an outside form for 
the concrete. Under ordinary circum¬ 
stances, the concrete is composed of one 
part cement, two parts sand, and three 
parts crushed stone or gravel, and is 
mixed thoroughly with water until it 
achieves a jelly-like consistency. It is 
then poured into the excavation until it 
fills the side wall trenches and bottom 
to a level half way through the floor. 
Woven wire reinforcement is then laid 
on the half-poured floor and reinforcing 
rods set in the center of the side wall 
spaces, as shown in the drawing. Then 
the pouring of the floor is completed, 
after which the forms for the side walls 
are put in place, their bottom edges 
just touching the surface of the floor. 
The concrete for the side walls must be 
poured immediately so that it will effect 
a perfect bond with the fresh concrete 
below. 
Before any concrete work is done the 
inlet and outlet pipes must be put in 
place. .As this opens the way to a dis¬ 
cussion of the plumbing, and inasmuch ; 
as the rough shell of the pool has been 
poured, the concrete will be allowed to i 
“set” for a while, so to speak, and this 
other phase of the construction disposed 
of. 
Water has to be gotten into the pool 
somehow, and out again. In very small 
pools, where the inconvenience of the 
thing does not matter, plumbing can be 
dispensed with and the basin filled with 
a hose and emptied with a rubber tube 
syphon. This method cannot be recom¬ 
mended, however, in any but extreme 
cases, because it interferes too much 
with garden leisure. And furthermore, 
it offers no means of keeping a con¬ 
tinuous flow, however slight, coming 
in and going out. This continuous 
flow is almost essential. It prevents 
stagnation, gives movement and sparkle 
to the water, keeps water plants and fish 
healthy, and is in every way a splendid 
influence. 
The inlet pipe may be an inconspicu¬ 
ous opening in the side of the pool, a 
fountain, or a bubbler. A fountain 
inlet requires a pipe brought up (gen¬ 
erally) in the center of the pool to a 
level just above the water line. The 
nozzle can be adjusted to make a spray, 
jet or solid stream. A bubbler, simi- 
{Continued on page 102) 
