98 
House b" Garden 
Haviland CKina 
Haviland &. C° 
II East 36th Street, New York 
AN AUTUMN GARDENER’S RESUME 
{Continued from page 64) 
cent form and size, while ehns are of 
course a standby for many regions. 
Perhaps not so weU known, but never¬ 
theless worthy, is the horsechestnut, with 
its symmetrical form and spires of white 
blossoms in early summer. Where sturdi¬ 
ness and long life rather than quick 
growth are primary considerations the 
red, white and pin oaks are in a group 
peculiarly their orvn. 
Smaller ornamentals of excellent char¬ 
acter are the red Japanese maples, the cop¬ 
per beech, Judastree orredbud, white birch 
(graceful beyond comparison and chastely 
beautiful), dogwood, and, if you fancy 
an oddly shaped rascal that lends itself 
to many picturesque effects, Gingko biloba. 
These are ample to furnish at least a 
foundation for any place, but no tree 
enthusiast would think of omitting from 
the list those fruiting kinds which com¬ 
bine intrinsic beauty and food production 
with adaptability to fall planting. The 
pit fruits, such as cherries and peaches, 
are preferably set out in the early spring, 
but autumn is an unexcelled season to put 
in the apples, pears and crabapples. Out 
of many luscious varieties, a selection 
might be made from the following: 
Apples: Early Harvest, fruit available 
in late July and August; Red Astrachan, 
August and September; Sweet Bough, 
August and September; Yellow Transpar¬ 
ent, July and August; Duchess of Olden- 
burgh, August and September; Graven- 
stem, September to November; McIntosh, 
September to January; Stark, November 
to January; Rhode Island Greening, Oc¬ 
tober to March; Baldwin, October to 
May; Northern Spy, December to June. 
Of the crabapples, worthy of places for 
the ornamental value of the trees as well 
as the toothsomeness of their fruit when 
compounded into jellies and jams. Golden 
Beauty, Transcefident and Hyslop are aU 
good. They can be depended upon to 
yield crops in September and October. 
Pears likewise add to the appearance 
and productiveness of the grounds. Three 
varieties that should furnish a succession 
of fruit from August to November are 
Clapp’s Favorite, Bartlett and Sheldon. 
Still considering affairs edible, currants, 
gooseberries, blackberries and raspber¬ 
ries are outstanding contenders for posi¬ 
tions along the vegetable garden border, 
flanking driveways and paths elsewhere 
than through the purely ornamental parts 
of the grounds, or in a separate garden 
patch set apart for them alone. 
Of the first mentioned. Fay’s Prolific 
and Cherry are splendid red sorts; Cham¬ 
pion and Boskoop Grant leading blacks; 
and White Grape is a prominent leader of 
the white race. 
A choice of gooseberries might be made 
between Red Jacket, Industry and Down¬ 
ing, while on the blackberry Who’s Who 
list are the names of Erie, Iceberg and 
Taylor. If you are a raspberry fan, your 
confidence in La Frame, Cuthbert, Golden 
Queen and Cumberland will not be mis¬ 
placed. 
So much for the trees and fruits. When 
it comes to selecting an All-American 
team of ornamental flowering shrubs the 
abundance of promising material is al¬ 
most appalling. Therefore the errors of 
omission that may exist in the ensuing 
tabulation have been committed in a 
spirit of humbleness and apology. 
Shrubs for Foundation Planting: 
(Low Growing) Deutzia {D. gracilis); 
Globe Flower {Kerria japonica); Thun- 
berg’s Spirea (5. Thunbergii); Anthony 
Waterer Spirea; Coral Berry {Symphori- 
carpos vulgaris); Thunberg’s barberry 
{Berberis Thunbergii); Beauty Berry 
{Callicarpa purpurea). 
(Medium Height) Drooping Golden 
Bell {Forsythia suspensa); Van Houtte’s 
Spirea {S. Van Houttei); White Kerria 
{Rhodotypos kerrioides); Bridal Wreath 
{Spirea prunifolia); Japanese Snowball 
{Viburnum plicatum); Regel’s privet 
{Ligustrum Ibota Regelianum). 
(Tall Growing) Rose Weigela {DierviVa 
rosea); Hybrid Golden Bell {Forsythia 
intermedia); Fortune’s Forsythia {F. 
fortumi). Besides these, rhododendrons 
and laurel are often excellent where con¬ 
ditions of shade and soil are suitable. 
Shrubs for Hedges, Borders and 
General Use: Thunberg’s barberry; 
Wrinkled Japanese Rose {Rosa rugosa); 
Common Buckthorn {Rhamnus cathar- 
tica); Cockspur Thorn {Crataegus crus- 
galli); May Thorn (C. oxyacantha); 
Japanese Fetterbush {Andromeda japon¬ 
ica); Mezereon Daphne {Daphne mezer- 
eum); Hybrid Golden Bell; Dark Green 
Golden BeU {Forsythia viridissima); Van 
Houtte’s Spirea; Tartarian Honeysuckle 
{Lonicera tatarica); Privet in variety; 
Rose of Sharon {Hibiscus syriacus); 
Lilacs in variety. 
In all fall planting of shrubs, trees, bush 
and cane fruits and herbaceous perennials 
the same general rules obtain: dig holes 
that are large enough to accommodate 
the roots without crowding; set as deep 
as the plants were formerly growing; 
water well and pack the earth down firmly 
enough to bring it everywhere into con¬ 
tact with the roots and exclude air spaces. 
Trees, if more than a few feet high, 
should be supported with stakes or guy 
wires stretched in three directions until 
the roots take firm hold, which may not 
be for a year or so. 
THE COTTAGE GARDEN IDEA 
{Continued from page 76) 
covered fence. By this time he has made 
an almost perfect little garden without 
having aimed to make a garden at all. 
The cottage gardener is usually a prac¬ 
tical soul, so he uses plants which will 
require the slightest amount of attention. 
He devotes as little space as possible to 
turf because turf has to be mowed regu¬ 
larly and often. These are two points to 
keep in mind when planning any garden 
that is to be taken care of by the owner; 
for as soon as a garden becomes a burden 
or an unexpected expense it is apt to get 
out of hand and degenerate. For while 
cottage gardens rarely have a polished 
appearance they are neat. It is one of 
their greatest charms that they should 
be lived in so much of the time that they 
be kept in a condition as well ordered as 
that of a living room. 
Generally a cottage garden is expected 
to do its share in providing its household 
with food as well as with beauty. A south¬ 
ern wall in such a garden would not be 
covered with a merely decorative vine, 
but dwarf fruit trees would be trained 
against its surface, and the effect would 
be quite as fine as one could wish. Beds 
of small vegetables would be planted if 
there was room, and they would be edged 
with flowers. Grapes would cover the 
arbors, and currants and gooseberries 
would take the place very often of orna¬ 
mental shrubs. Dwarf fruits would be 
planted at the intersections of paths 
where they could be easily handled. No 
loveliness would be lost in the process, 
for these plants, when they are properly 
arranged, need to make no excuses to 
their purely esthetic companions. 
Any cottage garden, or any garden 
which is to have the quality of a cottage 
garden, should be small. One of the rea¬ 
sons for this lies in the very desirable 
intimacy that only a small garden can 
{Continued on page 100) 
