68 
House & Garden 
Villosa Lilac. 
New Lilacs on theirown roots 
Of late years there has been a multitude of new varieties of Lilacs 
grown, and some of them have very great beauty; but, unfortunately, 
almost all the stock offered, both in this country and Europe, has been 
budded on privet and is practically worthless, for Lilacs grown on this 
are certain to die in a few years. Nurserymen bud Lilacs on privet 
because they can produce a large stock quickly and inexpensively; but 
one Lilac on its own roots is worth a score of budded plants. 
Fifteen years ago we bought all the available stock of choice named 
Lilacs on their own roots in Europe and since then we have been both 
growing and buying until we have a very large and fine stock. On 
account of their starting into growth so early in the spring, Lilacs 
should be ordered early. They are best planted in the fall. 
Price, except where noted, $1.25 each, $12 per doz. 
Alphonse Lavalle. Double, beautiful, clear lilac. Extra large and fine. 
Charles Joly. Double; blackish-red; distinct and extra fine. 
Charles X. Large, shining leaves and great trusses of reddish purple 
flowers. 
Due de Massa. Double; purplish-violet, large carmine buds. 
Dr. Lindley. Large compact panicles of purplish-lilac flowers, dark 
red in bud. 
Frau Antoine Buchner. Double, very large heads of flowers, soft pink, 
late. 
Geant des Batailles. Bright reddish lilac, in large trusses. Very bril¬ 
liant and effective. 75 cents. 
Japonica. We have some extra-large specimen plants of this July- 
flowering Lilac. Immense spikes of pure white flowers. $1.00. 
Lemoinei. Double, white. 
La Tour d'Avergne. Double; purplish-violet flowers borne in large 
trusses. 
Madam Kreuter. Beautiful bright rose. 
Thunberg. Double, compact flowers, deep mauve. 
Vestali. Enormous panicles, large flowers, perfectly shaped, pure 
white. 
Frau Bertha Damman. One of the very best whites, immense panicles. 
Lamartine. Large panicles of mauve-rose flowers; very early. 
Lean Simon. Double, compact panicles, bluish-crimson. 
Lemoinei flore pleno. Double; carmine violet. $1.00. 
Marie Legraye. Large panicles of white flowers. The best white Lilac. 
Michel Buchner. Dwarf plant; very double; pale Lilac. 
President Poincare. Double; enormous compact head of flowers, 
claret-mauve with purple buds. Splendid. $2.50. 
President Carnot. Double: lilac tint, marked in center with white; 
extra-large, fine truss, $1.00; extra heavy, $2.00. 
President Grevy. Double; vinous violet. 
Souvenir de Louis Spaeth. Most distinct and beautiful variety; trusses 
immense; very large, compact florets; deep purplish red. 
Villosa. A late-flowering species, blooming a month later than other 
varieties, with deep pink flowers; extremely free-flowering and ef¬ 
fective. Makes a large, splendid specimen. $1.00. 
Viviand Morel. Extra-long spikes of large, double flowers of light 
bluish-lilac, with white centers. 
Wm. Robinson. Double: violaceous pink. The flower trusses are extra 
large and the bush is vigorous and hardy. $1.00. 
We have the largest, finest and most comprehensive stock of 
Hardy Plants in America, including three hundred varieties of 
the choicest Peonies, and an unsurpassed collection of named 
Phloxes. Our illustrated catalogue, describing these and hundreds 
of other Hardy Plants, Trees, Rhododendrons, Azaleas and Shrubs 
will be sent on request. 
ELLIOTT NURSERY COMPANY 
339 FOURTH AVENUE PITTSBURGH, PA. 
Rose Diseases and Their Control 
ftaHE rose gardener should under¬ 
stand that roses are subject to a 
number of fungous growths caus¬ 
ing serious diseases and that he must 
ward these off carefully if he would 
keep his plants in the healthful condition 
necessary for satisfactory growth and 
the production of blossoms. These fun¬ 
gous parasites rarely kill the plants out¬ 
right, but by their presence the vigor of 
plants is greatly reduced, the foliage may 
be rendered unsightly, branches more or 
less distorted or disfigured, and the qual¬ 
ity of. the blossoms lowered. In consid¬ 
ering the fungous diseases of these plants 
the fact must be recognized that in 
common with similar diseases of other 
plants treatments are preventive rather 
than curative. While thorough and re¬ 
peated sprayings with a suitable fungi¬ 
cide will in most cases so check the 
development of the parasite that the 
disease for the growing season will be 
in a great measure controlled, the full 
benefit of fungicidal applications can 
be secured only by their early use in 
the spring, guarding in this way against 
the recurrence of a disease of the previ¬ 
ous season. 
Fungicides to be recommended for 
rose diseases are Bordeaux mixture, lime- 
sulphur, potassium sulphid, and am- 
moniacal solution of copper carbonate. 
The lime-sulphur has proved very val¬ 
uable, especially in controlling mildew, 
as it does not injure the foliage of even 
delicate tea roses. 
Common Diseases 
Powdery mildew: Powdery mildew is 
extremely common, few gardens being 
entirely free from this most destructive 
of all rose diseases. Wild as well as 
cultivated roses suffer from it, crimson 
ramblers being especially susceptible. 
The fungus frequently appears very 
early in the season on young buds, 
leaves and young shoots, causing the 
appearance of a delicate white mildew 
that becomes mealy after the develop¬ 
ment of the summer spores. If the at¬ 
tack is severe, the normal development 
of the succulent young shoots is ar¬ 
rested, the leaves become curled and 
deformed, falling prematurely, and com¬ 
plete defoliation sometimes results. Later 
in the season the winter spores develop. 
These spores are capable of persisting 
through the winter and setting up a new 
infection in the spring. 
Rose rusts: Rose rust appears as 
conspicuous, orange-colored swellings on 
the green parts of rose bushes in the 
spring or early summer. Later these 
take a deeper shade and become pow¬ 
dery. Small, circular spots may occur 
on the leaves. 
Anthracnose: Anthracnose attacks 
principally the leaves, but also, to some 
extent, the branches, causing the ap¬ 
pearance of blotches, which later dis¬ 
charge a pinkish mass of spores. The 
affected leaves are dwarfed and fall. 
Leaf-spot: There are several leaf- 
spot diseases of roses. In most cases 
the spots have a more or less brownish 
center with a purplish border. 
Leaf-blotch: Leaf-blotch, which is 
also known as black-spot, ranks next to 
powdery mildew in frequency of oc¬ 
currence. Bush roses are more suscepti¬ 
ble to this trouble than climbing roses 
and the attacks are most severe in wet 
seasons. The first symptoms of the 
presence of the parasite are irregularly 
shaped, blackish spots without definite 
borders on the upper surface of mature 
or nearly full grown leaves. These spots 
may grow together. 
Practically all these diseases require 
the same treatment, which consists, in 
general, of careful spraying for control 
during the growing season and the cut¬ 
ting out of diseased portions of the 
plant in the fall, followed by more 
spraying of the shortened plant. The 
I diseased wood removed, together with 
the old leaves and debris under bushes, 
should be burned. In case of attacks 
by rusts and leaf spots, the diseased 
wood or leaves should be removed and 
burned even during the growing season. 
For powdery mildew, the control 
sprayings should be with lime-sulphur 
or potassium sulphid. After cutting 
back in the fall, a similar spray should 
be made use of. The control spraying 
for rusts should be ammoniacal copper 
carbonate. The fall spraying should be 
with a strong Bordeaux mixture. For 
leaf-spot and leaf-blight, the control 
sprays may be either Bordeaux mixture 
or ammoniacal copper carbonate. For 
the fall spraying use the former. 
Another disease to which roses are 
subject is canker. A wholly satisfactory 
method of control has not been worked 
out for this disease. The early symp¬ 
toms are the appearance of small red¬ 
dish patches on the green parts, general¬ 
ly of one-year-old growth. The disease 
is caused by a fungus classed as a wound 
parasite, that is, the spores gain en¬ 
trance to the bush through certain me¬ 
chanical injuries. These may be slight 
ones made upon the young branches by 
the thorns of the bush itself when one 
branch has been blown against another, 
or by insect punctures. Such infected 
areas may increase until the entire stem 
is surrounded and may extend for sev¬ 
eral inches along the branch. The only 
advice to be given is to cut away rigor¬ 
ously all diseased branches, and it may 
be necessary to cut back entire bushes 
if badly infected. Cover the exposed 
surfaces made by this cutting with paint 
or tar. This diseased material must be 
burned and the dormant bushes sprayed 
with strong Bordeaux mixture in both 
the autumn and early spring. At the 
first appearance of the disease, cut away 
and destroy all the branches showing 
infection. Then spray about every ten 
days, first with Bordeaux mixture and 
later with ammoniacal copper carbonate, 
as spraying has a disfiguring effect upon 
the foliage, an appearance to be avoided 
when blossoming time is near. It is 
possible that by such careful attention 
the bushes may outgrow the disease. 
Insect Enemies and How to Combat 
Them 
In the path to easy success with roses 
lie numerous insect pests which, unless 
prevented, will devour leaves or suck 
juices, thus seriously impairing the vi¬ 
tality of the plants. The only way in 
which the rose gardener may prevent 
these attacks is by careful and insistent 
spraying with insecticides. 
Insects which most commonly affect 
roses are of two general types: those 
which eat the foliage, as rose slugs and 
the rose chafer, and those which suck 
the sap, as aphids, scale insects, and 
thrips. The presence of leaf-eating in¬ 
sects is usually first detected through 
the discovery of partially eaten leaves 
or of skeletonized leaves; that is, leaves 
from which a portion of the lower or 
upper surface has been eaten, leaving 
the other surface as a transparent mem¬ 
brane, or leaves the fleshy part of which 
has been eaten clear through, often 
leaving merely the midrib and veins. 
The discovery of the enemy frequently 
follows. Protection from this sort of 
attack is afforded by hand picking or by 
covering both surfaces of the foliage 
thoroughly with some poisonous sub¬ 
stance, as arsenate of lead. Wherever a 
garden hose is available, a strong stream 
of water directed against rose slugs on 
the foliage will knock them off and, in 
many cases, save the bush from further 
injury by them. The rose chafer is a 
rather difficult insect to control, and 
arsenical poisons applied at double the 
usual strength often fail to kill them 
before the damage is done. Frequent 
hand picking of the beetles and drop- 
(Continued on page 70) 
