74 
House & Garden 
Curtains stay clean longer; furniture requires fewer 
dustings; housewife has more leisure and rest, when 
the windows are weatherstripped. Weatherstrips keep 
out the dust and dirt that would otherwise enter. See 
how much easier it is to keep the house clean when 
the windows are weatherstripped. 
Chamberlin for 26 Years 
the Standard 
It means a great deal to you to know 
that the Chamberlin Strips on your 
house are manufactured by a Com¬ 
pany which has made weatherstrips 
for 26 years. 
You rightly feel that Chamberlin’s 
26 years’ leadership has proved the 
worth of its weatherstrips and relia¬ 
bility of the Company conclusively. 
In these 26 years of 
business, Chamber¬ 
lin has indeed ac- 
cumulated un¬ 
matched experi¬ 
ence in weather¬ 
stripping. 
In making houses 
cold - proof, dust - 
proof, draught- 
proof, noise-proof, 
and in carefree, 
dependable service 
generally, Cham¬ 
berlin Strips are 
simply unequalled. 
They are so dur¬ 
able that we guar¬ 
antee them unlim¬ 
itedly, meanwhile 
assuring you that in 
all probability they 
will outlast the 
building. 
You want weather¬ 
strips on your house 
— and you want 
Chamberlin Weather¬ 
strips, the standard 
for 26 years. 
We have an inter¬ 
esting new booklet 
on the subject of 
weatherstrip- 
ping your home— 
write for copy. 
CHAMBERLIN METAL WEATHERSTRIP CO. 
Methods of Heating the House 
( Continued, from page 72) 
; Another method of concealing radi¬ 
ators, especially if they are located so 
as to come under the windows, is to en¬ 
close them with cases of wood designed 
to conform with the style of the room, 
providing a seat or plant shelf under 
the window, at the same time that the 
radiator itself is enclosed and at least 
partially concealed or hidden. Care 
must be taken to provide ample area of 
openings in the grilles to allow the air 
in the room to circulate freely through 
the case and around the radiator, espe¬ 
cially a space at the bottom for the air 
to draw in over the floor and carry up 
and out at the top, front or sides of 
the enclosing case. With this arrange¬ 
ment, a certain excess of radiating value 
always must be provided to counteract 
enclosing the radiator; this excess should 
vary from ten to twenty per cent, de¬ 
pending upon the design and arrange¬ 
ment of the grille and case. 
There is supposed to be a certain 
amount of advantage from the moisture 
added to the air by the hot water sys¬ 
tem, in distinction to the “dryness” sup¬ 
posed to be imparted to the air by the 
steam system. As both the water and 
steam are enclosed within iron pipes, 
however, there can be actually little 
difference between the two in this par¬ 
ticular. Both systems can be helped by 
keeping pans of water—especially the 
flat bowls carrying a few sprays of 
flowers—in the room, either on a table 
or on the radiator case, to provide an 
opportunity for humidifying the air 
naturally by the process of local evapo¬ 
ration. 
Both these systems cost considerably 
more to install than the hot air furnace. 
If a house could be equally well heated 
—so far as its arrangement and physical 
conditions were concerned—by all three, 
the steam heating system would cost 
from eighty to ninety per cent more 
than the hot air, and the hot water 
system from a hundred to a hundred 
and twenty-five per cent more. These 
ratios are at the present moment rather 
more than less than has been stated, 
because of the increases caused by world 
conditions in the cost of iron and other 
metals. The economy of running the 
two systems is supposed to be slightly 
greater in the case of hot water, largely 
because of those spring and fall periods 
when only a mild form of heat is de¬ 
sired. But both systems are materially 
cheaper to run than hot air in a house 
of any size or extent, and especially if it 
is in an exposed position. Under the 
latter circumstances, steam is probably 
the system most to be preferred. 
Vapor Vacuum Heating 
There is also an improvement of 
the steam system generally called 
a “vapor” or “vacuum” system. 
This, briefly, consists in creating a 
vacuum at the end or ends of the sys¬ 
tem farthest from the boiler, which 
tends to draw the heat—even the first 
vapor arising from the water, before 
steam actually begins to be formed— 
through the system more rapidly and 
certainly, making possible certain econo¬ 
mies in the sizes of pipes and radiators. 
Especial appliances are manufactured 
for these systems, most of which are 
specialties covered by patents which 
tend to more than offset the savings 
possible from these economies, so that 
these systems often actually cost rather 
more than either steam or hot water. 
It is also possible to install a “single 
pipe” system, by which one larger pipe 
serves for both supply and return. This 
method, however, while a favorite in 
office buildings, is somewhat less highly 
regarded by the house owner, because 
of its inherent tendency to “hammer” 
or pound vigorously at the time—gen¬ 
erally between four and six in the morn¬ 
ing!—when the fire begins to start up 
and the new heat, pushing out through 
the pipes, meets the colder currents 
flowing back toward the boiler. 
With both steam and hot water, there 
are also “indirect” systems, which means 
merely that, instead of exposing the 
steam or hot water radiator in the room, 
it is placed beneath the floor, encased 
in a metal box, which has a separate 
cold air connection from outside the 
house. This outside air is then heated 
and circulated in much the same way as 
from the hot air furnace. This system 
is considerably more expensive, however, 
than either of the “direct” heating sys¬ 
tems, because of the additional labor, 
tinwork, and enlarged radiator sizes re¬ 
quired to make it successful. It is there¬ 
fore undertaken only under conditions 
where expenses of installation and of 
later fuel supply are not considered as 
worthy of particular consideration. 
Both hot water and steam systems 
are more likely to occasion possible 
trouble from freezing where exposed in 
rooms near windows, or sometimes when 
concealed in walls. In the latter case, 
it may be difficult to repair; in either 
case the damage to ceilings or finish 
may be considerable. These dangers 
are entirely avoided in the hot air 
system. 
• Selecting the Heater 
In very large houses, it becomes neces¬ 
sary to get a size of heater so large that 
the circular firepot is no longer avail¬ 
able. In that case a heater built up of 
different sections is employed, which can 
be extended to any length and capacity 
required. The round firepot is, how¬ 
ever, more economical of fuel and easier 
to run, and therefore is employed wher¬ 
ever practicable. Heaters are rated by 
their manufacturers according to a sys¬ 
tem so arbitrary and theoretical that it 
is advisable always to install a heater 
of a size from seventy-five to one hun¬ 
dred per cent more than the manu¬ 
facturers’ stated capacity. The enlarged 
size helps in running the system more 
economically at all times, and is espe¬ 
cially advantageous in pushing the heat¬ 
er in very cold winter weather. 
There are, finally, a number of dif¬ 
ferent methods of automatically con¬ 
trolling heating systems, generally based 
on a regulator installed in some central 
portion of the house. This means, how¬ 
ever, that the temperature of all the 
rest of the dwelling is adjusted to the 
same uniform degree of heat, whereas, 
as a matter of fact, in most dwellings 
the living rooms are desired to be kept 
warmer during the day than the bed¬ 
rooms. This can be effected only by 
shutting off the bedroom radiators 
which, with a hot water system as gen¬ 
erally arranged, is impossible to do en¬ 
tirely without drawing off the water, 
as otherwise there is always some danger 
of freezing the hot water radiator. 
