HOUSE AND GARDEN 
July, 1915 
19 
A self-contained flower, the delphinium, if cut back when it 
goes to seed, it will send up new healthy shoots. In the same 
month coreopsis flowers. A hint as to winter care: do not cover 
them with manure, as it will kill them, 
a straw or leaf mulch is all they re¬ 
quire. On and off all summer the 
Pearl Achillea blooms. It is especially 
valuable for cutting. As it spreads 
like a weed, boards should be placed 
in the ground all around it. 
So that they might be tied securely, 
the dahlias were planted by the fence. 
Their culture is simple enough, al¬ 
though many gardeners play tricks 
with them—often to their regret. 
Thus some cut out the middle stalk 
with the idea of getting more flowers 
and less foliage. I have not found 
this practical. If more than two stalks 
come from the bulb I cut them off 
at the ground. 
The poppies, sown in every empty 
space, bloom in July and August with 
the phlox. Of the many varieties of 
phlox the best I know is the early 
white Miss Lingard, which has huge 
flower heads, blooms early in June, 
lasts three or four weeks and flowers 
again in August. Of the salmon pinks 
the prettiest is the Elizabeth Camp¬ 
bell. 
In September the pink-and-white 
physostegia — which, by the way, is an 
excellent cutting flower, lasting for 
days in water — keeps gay the border 
of my garden. The dahlias, marigolds 
and chrysanthemums last until frost. 
As chrysanthemums seem to dislike wind, I have found it better 
to plant them in a sheltered spot. 
The four middle beds of my garden are largely for annuals. 
At first an annual bed is not pleasing, the seedlings seem scrawny 
until July. They should have been mixed with perennials, but 
keeping them separate proved convenient for cutting, so I bore 
with their appearances. 
The north and west beds are partly sheltered by old lilac bushes, 
so I planted my late white cosmos 
in them, and they are often saved 
from a first frost — an excellent 
idea to remember if your garden hap¬ 
pens to have bushes and you wish to 
make your cosmos last as long as 
possible. 
Tbe color scheme of the north bed 
is red and white with the white sup¬ 
plied in part bv candidum lilies. As 
these are in a hot sunny spot they 
seem to thrive; I cannot grow them 
satisfactorily in half shade. Red is 
given by scarlet salvia; and in the 
autumn, when the garden is turning 
brown, I am grateful for their brilliant 
color. 
Blue and white is the scheme of the 
east bed. My Dropmore Anchusa has 
grown larger than any I’ve ever seen; 
besides, it lasts from May to July. 
The Emperor William cornflowers are 
excellent for cutting, but they turn 
brown by July. Were it not for the 
fact that they seed themselves, I would 
not bother with them. In May the 
hardy lupines are beautiful. They 
make big plants four or five feet high. 
However, they also die down, so I 
plant the hardy blue salvia, Asurea 
grandidora, in front to hide them. 
The south bed is principally for 
China asters, pink and white (Ameri¬ 
can Branching), and by August is a 
glorious sight. When the first buds come watch for black beetles. 
No amount of spraying will affect these. You must pick off by 
hand morning and night, and to make sure that they do not return 
drop them into oil or boiling water. The work is arduous, but if 
(Continued on page 55) 
The old-fashioned gas plant, Dictamus fraxinella alba , should 
be better known. It has a beautiful white flower in May 
and a good foliage all summer 
When the Sweet William died down, a row of 
white petunias covered their place along the edge 
Madame Plantier roses, which filled the middle oval 
plot, were a mass of small white roses in June 
Together with pink tulips in the south bed was rock 
cress, Arabis albida, the double long-blooming variety 
