68 
HO USE & GARDEN 
The Paris Openings 
NUMBER OF 
is now on sale throughout the United States 
A profusely illustrated number presenting the complete story of the Paris Openings, the 
successful creations of each couturier which taken collectively establish the Autumn and 
Winter mode. Vogue 
suggests 
I hat before you spend a penny on your new clothes, before you even plan your ward¬ 
robe, you consult its great Autumn and Winter Fashion Numbers. During the Very 
months when these numbers are appearing you will be spending hundreds of dollars 
for suits, gowns, hats, etc. 
★ Special Offer 
Send in the coupon below with 
$2.00 and we will send you with 
our compliments a copy of the 
Autumn Millinery Number show¬ 
ing the best one hundred model 
hats that Paris has produced for 
the Autumn of 1915 — making thir¬ 
teen numbers instead of twelve. 
Or, if more convenient, send 
coupon without money and 
your subscription will then 
start with the Paris Openings 
Number and continue 
throughout the next 
$2 Invested in Vogue 
will save you $200 
The gown you buy and never wear 
is the really expensive gown I 
Gloves, boots, hats, that miss being 
exactly what you want, are the 
ones that cost more than you can 
afford 1 
Why take chances again this year 
when by simply sending in the 
coupon, and at your convenience 
paying $2—a tiny fraction of the 
loss on a single ill-chosen hat or 
gown-you can insure the correct¬ 
ness of your whole wardrobe? 
Vogue is a beautifully illustrated 
magazine; the acknowledged au¬ 
thority on what is worn by well- 
dressed American women. Here 
are your twelve numbers (and one 
extra) : 
Autumn Millinery Number •¥- Sept. 15 
The best one hundred model hats Paris 
has produced for the Autumn of 1915 
The Paris Openings Oct. I 
The complete story of the Paris open¬ 
ings — the successful creations of each 
couturier which taken collectively es¬ 
tablish the mode 
Autumn Patterns Oct. 15 
Working plans for your entire winter 
wardrobe — the newest models adapted 
to pattern form 
Winter Fashions Nov. I 
Showing the mode in its Winter culmi¬ 
nation — charming models smart cou¬ 
turiers evolve for their private clientele 
Vanity Number Nov. 15 
Those graceful little touches that make 
the smart woman smart, where to get 
them and how to use them 
Christmas Gifts Dec. I 
Vogue’s solution of the Christmas gift 
problem. A new idea 
Christmas Number Dec. 15 
More gifts and practical ideas for holi¬ 
day entertaining 
Lingerie Number Jan. I 
Pine linen for personal use and for the 
household 
eleven numbers, 
twelve numbers in 
^ all. 
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Motor and Southern Jan. 15 
The new fashions in motor cars and 
the new wardrobe for the southern 
season 
Forecast of Spring Fashions Feb. I 
Earliest authentic news of Spring styles. 
Fully illustrated 
Spring Millinery Feb. 15 
Hats, bonnets and toques from the fa¬ 
mous milliners of Paris 
Spring Patterns Mar. I 
Working models for your Spring and 
Summer wardrobe 
Paris Spring Openings Mar. 15 
The Spring exhibitions of the leading 
couturiers of Paris 
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AA i^e tenth does; the tenth is a 
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The Collectors’ Department of Antiques and Curios 
(Continued from page 66) 
gestion, perhaps, from the ancient 
Opus anglicanum. These elevations, 
or “stumps,” as they were called, 
were of cloth, of hair, of wool and 
sometimes of wood, paper and parch¬ 
ment. In fact their materials were 
various. These stumps were glued, 
or basted on a ground of (generally) 
white satin, and the stitching was 
then executed to cover the stumping. 
Quaint in conceit, and crude 
enough in design are these 
stitched emblems in this stump- 
work sachet, so industriously worked 
by the fair hand of the young 
Lady Mary. The twice-repeated cat¬ 
erpillar in the design was an emblem 
of the Stuart dynasty, nor are the 
other emblems without intended sig¬ 
nificance. The eyes of the birds, ani¬ 
mals and insects are marked by seed 
pearls, a practice of even earlier date 
in England as one finds from the in¬ 
ventory of St. James House, 1549, 
wherein is mentioned a picture “of 
needlework, partly garnished with 
seed pearl.” Designs for emblems, 
such as those worked by Lady Mary, 
were derived from various books of 
embroidery patterns issued during the 
period, works rarely met with now-a- 
days, as few copies appear to have 
survived. Such an one was that pub¬ 
lished about 1632, entitled ‘Certaine 
Patternes of Cut-Workes Newly In¬ 
vented,” and John Taylor’s “The 
Needles Excellency. A New Booke 
Wherein Are Divers Admirable 
Workes Wrought With the Needle. 
Newly Invented and Cut In Copper 
for the Pleasure and Profit of the 
Industrious. Printed for James Bo- 
ler and Are To Be Sold at The Signe 
of The Marigold in Paules Church¬ 
yard.” Eleven editions of this were 
issued before 1640, though the twelfth 
only is to be found in the collection 
of the British Museum, so rare has 
the work become. 
The second sachet embroidered by 
Lady Mary is that stitched in rain- 
bow-hued silks, shown in the center 
of the top row of the group of ob¬ 
jects illustrated. To the left of it is 
an exquisite little pin-cushion worked 
in knotted stitches of green, yellow 
and red silks on a canvas ground. 
Silver threads are also effectively in¬ 
troduced and an edging of silver lace 
surrounds the cushion. To the right 
of the sachet is illustrated Lady 
Mary’s needle-case, made of pieces of 
her court dresses, wonderful bits of 
silk, gold and silver brocades. While 
this is not an example of embroidery, 
it is yet an interesting reminder of 
the fact that many embroidery pat¬ 
terns were copied from the designs of 
the richly brocaded silks of the 
period. 
The two specimens of bead work 
illustrated in the group exhibit char¬ 
acteristics common to examples of 
the period. Such bead work was con¬ 
temporary with stump-work. Of this 
bead embroidery Huish makes the 
following observation : “The actual 
stitchery in the old embroideries that 
are worked entirely, or almost en¬ 
tirely, in beads, is of an extremely 
simple description. In the majority 
of pieces the work is applied as in 
the case of the stump embroideries, 
the beads being threaded and sewn 
down on the framed linen, either 
flatly or over padding. In the less 
elaborate class of embroideries, how¬ 
ever, the beads are sewn directly on 
the satin ground; but when this plan 
has been adopted, the design is rarely 
padded at all, although small por¬ 
tions of it, such as cravats, girdle- 
tassels, and garter-knots, are found 
to be detached from the rest of the 
work. This is for the most part exe¬ 
cuted with long strings of threaded 
beads crushed down in close-set 
rows.” 
What Every Kitchen Needs 
(Continued from page 36) 
electrical outlets may be provided in 
the structure of the building. In 
planning the location and in deter¬ 
mining upon the size of the refrig¬ 
erator to be used, it is wise to select 
a stock size, as this will save 60 to 80 
per cent, over the cost of having a 
special size or shape. The actual re¬ 
frigerator to be installed must be 
selected before the structure of the 
house goes ahead, as it will be im¬ 
possible properly to locate the drain, 
water outlet, electric outlet, or, in 
fact, the alcove itself for the refrig¬ 
erator, until the exact size of the 
refrigerator and the location of the 
outlets in it are known. 
If the refrigerator with the glass 
doors is selected, it must be remem¬ 
bered that such doors decrease the 
efficiency of the refrigeration, as 
glass is not a good insulating mate¬ 
rial. On the whole it seems that glass 
doors are undesirable, as their pur¬ 
pose is often frustrated by the con¬ 
densation of moisture on the glass; 
the loss in refrigeration and extra 
work necessitated in keeping them 
clean more than discount the possi¬ 
ble convenience resulting from their 
installation. 
Since we are planning to have 
ample storage in the kitchen itself for 
the daily necessities, and provision 
has been made for the use of the re¬ 
frigerator through the entire year, 
and any quantities of supplies in the 
nature of canned goods, fruits and 
vegetables will be stored in the cold 
room of the basement, a cold pantry 
will not be necessary. The elimina¬ 
tion of this pantry not only saves in 
the work of maintenance, but in the 
original cost, and is therefore one 
of the important factors in our 
scheme of simplification. A small 
closet, which will not require day¬ 
light, may well be provided for the 
storage of those heavier utensils not 
frequently used, such as the ice¬ 
cream freezer, deep fat kettle, pre¬ 
serving kettles and other bulky 
things. 
Among the various cupboards one 
must be provided for the care of 
brooms, scrub buckets and other 
cleaning materials. If it is necessary 
to keep the ironing board, clothes 
rack, etc., in the kitchen, a cupboard 
should be provided for them. An 
extra table, or folding shelf which 
may be turned down on the wall 
when not in use, is a great conven¬ 
ience at times of special work, as in 
the fruit canning season, or when 
serving a large dinner. Patent 
brackets are now made for this pur¬ 
pose. 
In homes where there is not 
always someone in attendance at the 
rear of the house, a very desirable 
convenience is a cupboard opening 
into both the kitchen and the rear 
entry, for the delivery of groceries 
and supplies. The inner doors may 
be locked, and although the outer 
doors are not locked, they will prove 
a great protection to the goods de¬ 
livered into the cupboard, from the 
molestation of tramps, cats or dogs, 
as well as protection from dirt and 
freezing. 
