November, 1915 
17 
well be included at once in the material to be removed, since 
their value is already impaired, and besides, these, with the 
old stumps, are the very harborers and breeding places of 
dangerous insects. 
The Question of Re-Forestation 
And now make it a rule: For every tree cut replant at least 
one in its place. 
This brings us to the next operation: Planting. This may 
either be a-forestation, the planting and sowing of valuable 
trees on unproductive and denuded areas, devoid of any tree- 
growth, or re-forestation, the covering of bare spots here and 
there in the woods. 
The question of “What” and “Where” to plant or sow in 
either case will depend primarily upon local conditions; that 
is, in the particular quality of the soil. This may be of a 
stony, sandy, clayish, limey or humus character. Sometimes 
we may meet even with loamy earth (80% sand and 20% 
of clay) or marly soil. These last two, however, are very rare 
and need not be considered here. 
Of all these soils a mild loam is the very best of all. A close 
observance of your woodland and its trees will help you 
materially in the selection of the trees suitable for your plan- 
(Continued on page 60.) 
For temporary growth trees may be “heeled in - 
until they may be removed to the woodlot 
You will be surprised to find that the cutting 
up of the dead trees, etc., into cordwood and its 
sale will, in many cases, not only pay for the 
labor and expenses involved, but will in addition 
leave a net profit on the right side of the ledger. 
As the price of cordwood varies according to 
locality and quality of the material offered for 
sale, it is impossible to say beforehand how 
much may be realized by this operation. As a 
rule, though, $3 to $5 a cord may well be ob¬ 
tained almost anywhere. 
Flow and What to Mark for Cutting 
After fire lines are established, or your wood- 
lot has been otherwise properly protected against 
fire, go through the woods, marking those trees 
which are to be cut. Do this while the leaves 
are still on the trees, in order to overcome any 
doubts later on when the leaves are off. 
The marking itself is best done by making a 
ring around the trunk of the tree, breast-high, 
using either a thick solution of whitewash or 
white paint. The latter is to be preferred in 
case not all trees can be cut in one season; in 
that case white paint will stay longer and it 
will not be necessary to re-mark the trees the 
following season. 
When marking keep your eyes open for the 
many strong shoots or even trees appearing 
here and there as offshoots from old stumps. 
Since the greater part of our woodland is sec¬ 
ond-growth timber; that is, many trees growing 
from old stumps and the latter having decayed 
or being in a state of decay, you will find that 
this decay has already or is communicating 
itself to these second-growth trees by way of 
the heart of the wood. Trees giving this indi¬ 
cation of their interior condition might just as 
This is the result of no fire lines, no clearings, and no preparedness against con¬ 
flagration-a tract out of commission for another thirty years. After a fire, the 
only solution is clearing away the burnt timber and replanting 
