10 
T UK FRESNO NURSERY CO. 
In many cases where severe pruning is 
absolutely necessary for the trees and 
plants to live and give results, nursery¬ 
men take the matter into their own hands, 
pruning them before shipping from the 
nursery. In the case of deciduous fruit 
trees, which are largely graded and sold 
by the height of the tree, the purchaser 
usually wants to see what he is paying for, 
and to avoid controversy, nurserymen ship 
with the entire top left intact, except in 
cases of extremely large size, which are 
pruned for convenience of packing. When 
planting the pruning can be done either 
before the trees are placed in the ground 
or immediately afterwards. Some people 
prefer to wait until they have planted the 
tree, so that in case the tree is partially 
branched they may trim the tree to grow 
into the desired form, but it should be 
done immediately. Do not wait several 
days, as the top left is exhausting moisture 
and strength from the body and root of the 
tree. If fig trees are to be trained in 
orchard or tree form, cut off as shown by 
solid lines. If the bush form is desired, 
cut off at lower dotted line. (See Figure 2.) 
Transplanting—In transplanting care 
should be taken to cut off all broken or 
mutilated roots with a smooth upward cut. 
Dig holes large and deep enough to admit 
the roots without cramping. Place the 
tree in the hole the same depth that it 
originally grew in the nursery, spreading 
out the roots in their natural position with 
the hands. (See Figures 5 and 6.) The 
proper depth of the tree can be determined 
by change in the color of the bark at the 
ground line. Fine, moist, pulverized earth 
should be sifted in and worked around the 
finer roots and the hole largely filled with 
this class of soil. Always use surface soil 
in filling in around tree after planting. The 
soil removed when digging the holes should 
not be used for best results, after which 
pour in from one to three buckets of 
water, according to the size of the tree 
and amount of earth to be moistened. Use 
water, whether the ground is moist or not; 
it pulverizes the lumps and settles the soil 
around the roots. Finish filling the hole 
with earth, hilling it up two or three inches 
above the level of the ground, and pack 
earth around and near the tree firmly with 
the feet; do not be afraid to stamp it; the 
harder you pack the dirt around the trees 
the better. After this packing rake a little 
loose, dry earth around the trees to act 
as a dust mulch, and make a ring a dis¬ 
tance of fifteen or twenty inches from the 
tree so it will retain and run water that 
may fall toward the tree. This completes 
the job of planting the tree. If, however, 
it can conveniently be had, we advise 
mulching the tree with straw, leaf mold or 
other decaying matter to the depth of two 
or three inches. 
Special to Walnuts and All Trees Having 
a Long Tap Root—In transplanting this 
long tap root class of tree, dig holes deep 
enough to admit the entire tap root with¬ 
out cutting off, and sufficiently large to ad¬ 
mit the lateral roots without bending. (See 
