WE 
HANDLE ALL KINDS 
OF FOREST TREE SEEDS 
LET US BID ON YOUR REQUIREMENTS 
We only list in this booklet those kinds of trees and shrubs 
we raise in large quantities. If you do not find what you are 
especially interested in, please send us a list of your require¬ 
ments and we will make you quotations to cover your needs. 
SUGGESTIONS FOR TREE PLANTING 
ORDER EARLY, PLANT PROMPTLY AND SUCCEED 
THE PROPER TIME TO PLANT 
In fall—the latter part of August and all September for most evergreens. 
October and November are desirable months for transplanting deciduous trees. 
In spring—as soon as the snow has gone and the frost is out of the ground; 
hardwoods and larches as early as possible, before the buds begin to start; 
evergreens immediately after these. 
USUAL DISTANCES BETWEEN PLANTS FOR 
FOREST PURPOSES 
White Pine—4 x 4 ft., 5x5 ft., 6 x 6 ft. 
Douglas Spruce—4 x 4 ft., 5 x 5 ft. 
Balsam Fir—4 x 4 ft., 5 x 5 ft. 
European Larch—5 x 5 ft., 4 x 6 ft. 
Red Oak—4 x 4 ft., 4 x 6 ft. 
White Ash—5 x 5 ft., 6 x 8 ft. 
Sugar Maple—5 x 5 ft., 4x6 ft., 7 x 7 ft. 
Birch—4 x 4 ft., 5 x 5 ft. 
Black Locust—4 x 4 ft., 3x6 ft., 5 x 5 ft. 
NUMBER OF PLANTS ON AN ACRE AT VARIOUS DISTANCES 
Feet 
Plants 
Feet 
Plants 
3x3. 
.4,840 
7 x 7. 
. 889 
4x4. 
.2,723 
8 x 8. 
. 681 
5x5. 
. 1,743 
9 x 9. 
. 538 
5x6. 
. 1,452 
10 x 10. 
. 436 
5x8. 
. 1,089 
12 x 12. 
. 302 
6x6. 
. 1,210 
16 x 16. 
. 171 
6x7. 
. 1,038 
20 x 20 . 
. 109 
WHAT PLANTS TO USE 
While fine seedlings are perfectly suitable for commercial forest planting 
under favorable conditions, it should be borne in mind that transplanted stock 
always has more endurance. (Seedlings are plants raised from seed and re¬ 
maining in the beds where they are sown. Transplants are plants which have 
been taken from the seed bed and replanted in the nursery one or more times.) 
Transplanting produces general stockiness and an abundance of fibrous roots. 
It is false economy to set seedl 5 ngs in places or for purposes where trans¬ 
planted stock should be used. Transplants are able to withstand far 
more adverse conditions of soil and weather, and to make a faster 
growth than seedlings. We would urgently recommend transplanted stock 
for all rough, stony, brushy, or especially dry and exposed land, and in gen¬ 
eral for the quickest and most noticeable results. Amateur planters, espe¬ 
cially, are advised to use transplanted trees. 
CARE OF PLANTS ON ARRIVAL 
Upon receipt of the plants, take them from the boxes, open the bun¬ 
dles and immerse the roots in water. Then spread the plants in thin layers, 
and heel them into the ground at an angle of 30 to 40 degrees, leaning the 
tops of the plants toward the south, and cover the roots with about 6 inches 
of moist soil. The best place for such heeling-in is in a cool, shady spot, 
such as the north side of buildings. The plants must be protected from the 
drying winds, and the roots never exposed to direct sun or wind. If plants 
arrive frozen, or in freezing weather, put the boxes in a cool but frost-proof 
cellar or shed, and leave them until thoroughly thawed. If the plants should 
arrive somewhat heated, it is best to plant them immediately, or, if that be 
impossible, to heel them in, not too closely, in a cool cellar, taking pains to give 
them extra air. It is important not to wet the roots too much when heeled-in 
in a damp cellar, as they will decay if too wet. 
HOW TO PLANT LITTLE FOREST TREES 
Before planting, the roots should be thoroughly soused in a “ puddle ” 
made of rich, fine earth or black muck and water, mixed to the consistency of 
ordinary paint. The plants should be carried to the field either in a bucket 
containing puddle or water, or in a basket with burlap or some such covering 
to protect the roots previously puddled. Any very long, superfluous roots 
should be cut off with a sharp knife or cleaver. In the case of small hard¬ 
wood seedlings, with a strong tap-root, cut the tap-root back to a length of 8 
or 10 inches, making a downward slanting cut. There must be no exposure 
of the roots to the sun or drying winds before setting, as plants are almost 
surely killed in this way; this is especially true of evergreens. Remember, 
plants are alive, and they will die if proper conditions are not given them. 
In setting the trees, two men work together, one carrying the plants and 
setting them, the other making the holes. The best all-around digging tool 
is the double-edged cutting hoe, or mattock. While one man makes the hole, 
the second man (or boy) places the plant in the hole with the roots straight 
down and spreading in a natural position. The best well-broken or “fined” 
soil must then be packed so solidly about the roots as to be air-tight. The 
plant should generally be set about Vi to 1 inch deeper than it was originally 
in the nursery, to allow for the settling of the ground; after settling, it should 
be just as deep as it was in the nursery. Great care must be taken not to 
set small plants too deep, especially in heavy soils. The roots can hardly 
be packed too firmly. Setting plants early in the spring, when the ground 
is still moist and the air cool, insures against such a costly and impracticable 
proceeding as watering after planting. 
CARE AFTER PLANTING 
A well-set plantation requires very little after-care. Cattle must be kept 
out at least for some years, if not entirely, and of course the plantation must 
be protected from fire. If the planting be sufficiently close, no pruning will 
be required. But in case some plants dying leave space enough for adjoining 
trees to grow “limby,” the latter should be pruned after about ten years, dead 
and superfluous limbs being cut close to the trunk. This is best done in the 
fall, when the sap, running sluggishly, will cover wounds without much 
bleeding. 
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