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4 HOVEY’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE 
attending the same. For the complete garden of the wealthy, this may and should he done; hut the 
mass of cultivators need not fear of obtaining good results without it. Deep and thorough trench¬ 
ing in the autumn, if possible, and the application of very old decaj'ed manure or leaf-mould, will 
give the amateur a well-prepared and suitable soil. If the situation of the garden is low or damp, 
first of all it should he well-drained; for, in addition to the injury from excessive moisture, such 
soils are cold, and the young plants are injured by early frosts, when they would escape damage In 
one of the opposite character: neither should the situation be too dry, as, in this case, the plants 
would suffer in summer, and present a meagre in place of a vigorous bloom. Where the soil is too 
light, a thin layer of clay, if to be had, spread over the surface in the autumn, and dug in, after being 
pulverized by the winter frosts, in the spring, is the best remedy. This, with the use of old manure, 
— that which has lain a year or more, and been frequently turned over till it becomes thoroughly 
decayed, — will keep the garden in good condition. No unvarying rules can be given : much must be 
left to the judgment of the amateur. lie must understand that the soil of a good garden should be 
deep, well pulverized, friable, and rich; and if the opposite, to make it as near that as possible. 
When the flower-garden is to be a specialty, — a piece of ground set apart for that object, and 
laid out in geometrical order, and all the beds edged with box or thrift, — then more pains ought to 
he taken; and those who are about to do this, if they have not the requisite information, will consult 
something more than a catalogue. Our hints are intended for the mass of the people who love flow¬ 
ers, who nave but little leisure, and do not wish to incur great expense in the gratification of their 
taste. 
Period for Sowing. — This must depend much upon the season, ns well as the locality. Our 
Northern springs are so variable, that no definite period can he named. As a general rule, the 
proper time to commence sowing is about the middle of April, though a few sorts may be planted as 
soon as the ground can be got ready; and, for a succession, the sowing should be continued until 
June. In the Southern States, of course, January, February, or March will be the time to sow, as they 
correspond with April, May, and June, of the North. The Californian annuals, now so numerous and 
so ornamental, are very hardy, and should be sown early, as they get well established before the 
heat of summer. To uvoid all danger of injury, the sowing may be deferred till the last of AprM; 
but, when a little labor is of no consideration, the sowing may be made earlier; and in case of failure 
to grow, or subsequent injury from frost or wet, another sowing may be made when the weather is 
more favorable, because we recommend April, it is not to he understood the sowing must he made 
at that time. The only object is to obtain a vigorous growth and early bloom. If sown in any part 
of May, they will flower later, but abundantly throughout the latter part of summer. 
Mode of Sowing. This must be varied according to the style of the garden and the variety to 
be sown. Many of the most showy and beautiful annuals are very impatient of removal; and these 
must be sown where they are to remain and flower. Such are the Lupins, 8weet-Pea, Eschscbolt- 
zia, Poppies, &o. Indeed, most of the tap-rooted annuals will not bear transplanting. Other annuals, 
which may be transplanted, and some of which flower stronger for removal, may either be sown in 
the places where they are to bloom, or in prepared beds, whence they are to be transplanted to 
the Mower-garden. In small gardens, undoubtedly the best way is to sow where they are to remain, 
thinning out the superfluous plants; this gives the least trouble: but in larger gardens, or where 
there are beds of early spring bulbs.to be tilled, the safest and best plan is to sow in well-prepared 
beds, and, when the young plants are of proper 6izc, to transplant to the flower-garden. 
Never sow seeds when the ground is very wet, particularly early in the spring. Select a time 
when the soil is neither wet nor dry. The sowing must be left to the taste of the cultivator and the 
extent of surface. If there are vacant beds, the seeds may be sown in rows across the bed; but if 
in the border, where there are only limited spaces among the perennials or bulbs, they may be 
planted in masses or groups, in which mode we think annuals produce the greatest effect. Our plan 
has always been to mark out a circle a foot or more in diameter, and level the ground evenly and 
nicely with a rake; then, with the back of a trowel, press the surface firmly down; around the circle 
make a slight drill of the proper depth, in which the seeds are thinly sown, covering them lightly, 
and again pressing the earth upon the seeds with the back of the trowel. If the soil should happen 
to be too wet, or stiff and adhesive, fill the drill with some light, sandy loam, and make firm, as 
before ordered. 
And here we should remark that great care should be exercised in covering the seeds. It is the 
great error to cover too deep; and the cause of more than half of the complaints against seedmen of 
selling old and worthless seeds comes from inexperience or want of judgment in sowing. No rule 
can be given in this respect; but, as a general guide, all large seeds, such as Sweet-Peas, Lupins, 
&c.,may be sown half an inch deep, — smaller, less; and for the smallest, such as Clarkia, Pinks, &c., 
a covering of one-sixteenth of an inch suffices. If sown too deep, they are longer in germinating, 
and are liable to decay. Avoid the general error of sowing the seeds too thick, as it causes an elon¬ 
gated and feeble growth, which no subsequent thinning will entirely remedy. 
If the weather should be warm, or the soil very dry, it will be advisable to give a slight watering 
with a watering-pot with a fine rose. It is not often that seeds planted in April need watering; but 
later in the season they frequently require it. Use water of the same temperature of the soil; or, if 
warmer, it will do no harm. The waterings should be given early in the afternoon, and repeated 
every few days; as, when the seeds begin to swell, they are more susceptible of injury from drought, 
and the young plants often perish when it is neglected. A good plan with very small seeds is to 
cover them with an inverted flower-pot, being careful to remove it before the young seedlings appear 
above the surface; otherwise they will be drawn up weakly. and are likely to bo injured by the hot 
sun or a cool night. Seeds vary in their period of germination. Some will be above ground in a 
week, while,others require two or three weeks. 
As soon as the seedlings have made three or four leaves, and are an inch high, they should be 
thinned out. If they are kinds which will bear removal, they may be replanted in vacant spaces in 
the border. No rule can be given for thinning. Tall-growing plants with spreading branches will 
require more room than slender-growing dwarf kinds; and in this the cultivator must be guided by 
the Catalogue. Stir the soil around the plants from time to time; and, if they appear crowded, a 
second thinning will be of great benefit to those that remain. If the growth is not strong, from the 
nature of the soil, apply occasionally a very small amount of guano or bone-dust. 
Transplanting. Presuming that many cultivators will sow their seeds in prepared beds, 
