■4 
TO THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 
whence the plants are to be removed to the borders to bloom, it is necessary that the work should be 
carefully performed to insure success. Transplanting should, if possible, always be done in cloudy 
weather, and towards evening. If the soil is dry, the plants will require a light watering to settle 
the earth around the roots; and, if warm, sunny days succeed the operation, they will root all the 
better to have a little shade for a day or two, which may be done by spreading an old newspaper over 
them, or covering with a mat, removing either at night. All large-growing plants should be trans¬ 
planted siugly; but many of the smaller maybe removed in patches, without anv trouble, if the soil 
is previously’well watered. We have found very little ditliculty in removing Zinnias, Asters, and 
smaller plants, after they have begun to bloom. After the plants are established, they will need no 
other care than to tie up the taller-growing sorts to stakes, to prevent the wind and rains from beat¬ 
ing them down to the ground and injuring them. 
HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 
We have already remarked that half-hardy annuals are those that require the aid of artificial heat 
to assist germination; but it should be remarked, that this is not absolutely necessary if the sowing 
is deferred until the ground is warm, — say the last of May. This is exemplified in the Portulaca, 
which sows itself: but the plants never appear above ground till June; and those who do not wish 
the trouble of sowing seed early should plant in open ground in May. But to gain time, and insure 
an early and abundant bloom, it is best to plant early, and assist the growth by a gentle artificial 
heat, dome of the most magnificent annuals are embraced in this class, of which the Aster, Zinnia, 
and Balsam are examples. The cheapest, most convenient, and simplest mode of doing this is the 
ordinary hotbed of stable manure, which gives a gentle bottom-heat quite sufficient for any of this 
class, its construction is simple, and generally understood by most owners of a garden; but, as 
there may be some of our readers who do not know how to make a good hotbed, wc- add the details 
at the close of our remarks, observing, however, that it is so valuable an aid in the forwarding of 
flowers as well as vegetables, that no one having a garden can well dispense with it. 
Presuming that the bed is made and all ready for use, the seeds may be sown on the prepared 
soil, just the same as in the open ground, and afterwards transplanted to the borders: but, as this is 
often attended with many failures in inexperienced hands, it is the safest to sow the seeds in pots or 
pans; if in neither of these, in shallow boxes. The pots should be about four or five inches in di¬ 
ameter, and should be perfectly clean. The soil should consist of a uniform compost of light, sandy 
loam, enriched with some fine leaf-mould, avoiding any raw or crude manures, which arc certain to 
injure the young plants. Put in a few crocks at the bottom of each pot, for drainage, and fill to the 
brim with the compost, giving the pot one or two gentle knocks on the bottom to settle the earth, 
which should be within naif an inen of the rim. Level the surface by gently pressing it with the 
bottom of a pot, or a circular piece of wood made for the purpose, as tnio will not only be beneficial 
to the seeds, but assist in distributing them more evenly ana regularly over the soil. Observe the 
same rules in regard to covering that we have already named. 8ome kinds will need nothing more 
than a thin sprinkling of earth, just to fairly cover the seeds; and each pod should have the surface 
again gently pressed down: a slight watering with a very fine rose will complete the operation of 
sowing. 
\V hen all the pots are filled and planted, and marked, as they should be, with the name of each, 
and date of sowing, upon a neat label, remove them at once to the hotbed or frame, and place them 
perfectly level, so that each pot may receive its proper proportion of water evenly over the surface. 
If there are but a few pots, and a greenhouse is at hand, they may have a place on a sunny shelf 
near the glass, shading them during the middle of the day. Shading will also be necessary in the 
hotbed. The temperature should not exceed seventy-five or eighty degrees, or the seeds will ger¬ 
minate too quick, and be drawn up weakly. As the seedlings appear above ground, give air by tilt¬ 
ing the sashes at the back. Give water as the pots require it (which is usually once a day), and 
always of the same temperature of the bed, and be careful in the operation not to wash away or de¬ 
stroy the young and slender seedlings. During cold nights, a mat may be thrown over the frame, 
■which will prevent the loss of heat, and maintain a more even temperature. As some of the seeds 
will make tneir appearance before others, those that appear above ground should be placed together 
towards the back of the frame, where they can have a greater abundance of air, and be more freely 
watered than the others. As the plants acquire a proper size, they should be thinned out so as not 
to injure those that remain : and then, when farther advanced, should be transplanted into four-inch 
pots, — one, three, or five plants in each, according to the variety, — using a compost similar to that 
in which they were sown, replacing the pots in the bed, and shading slightly, till they are well estab¬ 
lished, and able to bear the full sun. Those that are later in vegetating should be treated in the same 
manner, until all are transplanted, unless it is such kinds as will not bear removal safely ; and must 
be allowed to remain in the pot in which they were sown, thinning them out, so that not more than 
three or five plants are left. The Cypress-vine, Thunbergia, &c., are of this character. 
By the middle of May, the seedlings will be ready for tponsferring to the beds or borders where 
they are to bloom ; but. before this is done, the plants should be “ hardened off,” as it is termed, in 
order to prepare them for the change. This is effected by gradually giving the plants more air, and, 
when the weather is favorable, both day and night; removing the sashes wholly during the day: or, 
if more convenient, removing them to a cold frame, where they can be fully exposed in the day¬ 
time, and protected at night, if cold, with a covering of mats. Much must be left to the judgment 
of the cultivator and the amount of available space; the object being to prevent the plants from being 
injured by a too sudden exposure to the open air. Proceed in transplanting as we have already 
recommended under that head for hardy annuals. 
TENDER ANNUALS. 
We have stated that the classification of hardy, half-hardy, and tender annuals, was a convenient 
one; but really there is scarcely an annual but will grow freely in our climate in the open ground in 
summer. The term tender has been applied by English gardeners because the plants do not attain 
full perfection unless grown in pots in the greenhouse. Such are the Globe Amaranth, Balsam, Egg- 
Plant, &c. These should be sown in the hotbed or greenhouse; but, after they are ready for plant¬ 
ing out, they may be treated in the same manner as the half-hardy annuals, and with equal success. 
