TO THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 7 
Acacias of all kinds should have scalding water poured over the seeds, and be allowed to soak 
for twelve or twenty-four hours; they should then be planted in pots, in light, rich, sandy soil, cov¬ 
ering one-fourth of an inch deep, and placed in the hotbed or greenhouse. 
Globe Amaranth, Linum, and Cypress-Vine seeds should be soaked in tepid water for 
twelve hours to insure a quick germination. Iiub the seeds with a little dry sand when ready for 
sowing. 
Liliums of all kinds should have their seed planted immediately they are gathered, if possible, 
as they vegetate sooner. They remain good, however, for three or four years; but, when sown in 
spring, do not often vegetate until the second year. 
Cyclamens should be sown in the groenhonse or hotbed, in pans of light, rich soil, well drained. 
Transplant singly into pots, and keep them constantly growing the first year. 
Stocks of the winter-flowering varieties should be sown in July, and pricked off singly into 
small pots, shifting them as they require it, and keeping them in cold frames as long as it can be 
safely done. 
Canna-seeds have a hard, horny covering, and require to have the seed soaked in warm water 
for ten or twelve hours, planting them in hotbed while the heat is brisk and strong. Transfer to the 
open ground June 1st, and take up the roots before hard frosts. 
Gloxinias and Achimenes require to be grown in pots in the greenhouse, or a warm frame. 
The soil should be light and rich, — leaf-mould, loam, and sand. 
Ferns are easily raised from the spores (or seeds) with a little care. Sow in pots, which should 
be half filled with a good drainage of crocks, and the remainder, to within an inch of the rim, with 
coarse sandy peat or leaf-mould; make the surface smooth, and cover with a thin layer of sand; ou 
this sprinkle the spores. Set the pot in a pan of water ia a warm, shady part of the greenhouse, 
and cover with a pane of glass. In a month or two, the plants will be ready to pot oif singly in 
small pots. 
THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOTBEDS. 
We have already alluded to the importance of a hotbed for the successful growth of many of the 
half-hardy annuals and more delicate greenhouse plants. Though most or all kinds of seeds may 
be raised in a frame without bottom heat, yet this can only be done so late in the season, when the 
weather has become warm, that many Of the annuals are late in blooming, and the greenhouse 
plants do not ripen and mature their wood, and are therefore ill adapted to winter well. It is to 
obviate this that the hotbed is recommended to all amateurs. It is so easily made, and at such slight 
expense, that it will well repay all who would secure an abundance of flowers early in the season. 
Situation of the 15ed. — This should be in a warm position, fully exposed to the sun, facing 
the east or south, and sheltered by a fence or hedge on the west or nortn. The soil should, if possi¬ 
ble, be light and dry, as in this case the bed can be sunk a foot or more in the ground; but, if damp 
or cold, It should be built upon the surface. 
Making: the lied. — Manure fresh from the stable is best. This should be thrown over and 
thoroughly shaxen up with the fork, making it into a conical heap. In this state it should be allowed 
to remain four or five days; at the end of which time it should be turned over, shaking it up as 
before. At the end of another three or four days, it will be ready to make up the bed. Lay out the 
ground six inches larger than the frame, and put down a stake at each corner. The frame may be 
of any size: but the most convenient is nine by six feet, which will take three lights three by six 
feet, the ordinary size, which can always be had ready made. Proceed to build up the bed to the 
height of two and a half or three feet, making it rather firm, and watering if the manure is dry. 
When the bed is finished, put on the lights, and let it stand to settle and exhaust the violent heat. 
In a day or two add three or four inches of light sandy loam, spreading it evenly over the bed. If 
the seeds are to be sown in the soil of the bed, two or three more inches should be added; but if in 
pots, no addition will be necessary. 
The pots being ready, and sown with the various seeds, should be put into the frame, shading 
them during the day, and regulating the temperature by tilting the lights at the back, both night 
and day, and covering at night with mats. Plunge the pots in the soil, and, with proper care, the 
seeds will soon be above the’ soil. A thermometer placed in the bed will be the safest guide to 
the inexperienced. It should not rise above eighty-five degrees in the day, nor sink below sixty de¬ 
grees at night. As the heat declines, linings of fresh manure should be applied around the outside 
of the bed; but, ordinarily, for seeds, this is not necessary. 
The length or number of the frames is immaterial; but they should be nine to twelve inches 
deep at the front, and fifteen to eighteen inches at the back. This will give a good slope to carry 
off the rain. Cold frames are simply the hotbed-frame set upon a warm spot of ground, covering 
it at night to keep in the warmth accumulated during the day. 
THE COLISEUM IVY (LINARIA CYMBALARAIA). 
