Rose Specialists 
SO^EARS Experience^ 
HOW TO GROW ROSES, continued 
Manures. While manure from the cow-stable is probably best, you can draw 
upon the horse-stable or pig-sty with equal expectation of good results, and “night 
soil” mixed with dry soil or sand and well composted is unsurpassed. Well-rotted 
leaves are fair, but too light except for heavy soils. Commercial fertilizers, such 
as bone or guano, may be used to advantage if handled with discretion. A rule 
to remember is never to let any “green” or “raw” manure come close to the roots 
of your Roses, but see that it is buried well beneath the root reach, or applied as a 
top-dressing. 
The best time to apply manures is just as the ground begins to freeze in the autumn; 
let it serve as a protection over winter and dig it in next spring. It is said that Roses 
draw most upon the soil when blooming, and we find you can almost see the results 
from application (when the flower-buds begin swelling) of liquid manure, concocted 
by catching the drain from the manure pile, or one third of a bushel of manure soaked 
in a barrel of water and applied as a weak tea, not too strong, but frequently—^say 
twice a week. When it is more convenient, a sprinkling of bone dust on the surface 
before a rain will answer the same purpose. Even with the best care, it may prove 
necessary at times, say after six or eight years, to renew the Roses or move the bed, 
adopting the farmer’s principle of rotation of crops. 
Time to Plant. The best time to plant Roses depends upon where you live. 
In the southern and Pacific Coast states, autumn or early winter is most favorable. 
Leaving the Gulf states and coming North to the next tier of states, the same is true, 
providing you get dormant plants. 
North of the line of the Ohio river, only our hardier varieties will withstand the 
winters, if set out in the fall. The Everblooming kinds—i. e., the less hardy Teas and 
Hybrid Teas—before they can stand a winter in the open, require a summer’s growth 
in which to become thoroughly established; and, therefore, through the largest area 
of our great country, as a general rule, spring planting is recommended. 
If your ground for Roses has been prepared in the autumn, all the better; if not, 
begin as soon in the spring as the soil is dry enough to crumble in your hand. After 
this, dormant Roses may be planted at any time, but Roses in leaf not until mid-April, 
or any time thereafter. 
Treatment on Arrival. When you receive the Roses, give them the greatest 
care; never expose the roots to the drying action of spring winds for a moment. A 
plant with bare roots exposed to the dry air is like a fish out of water. Should the plants, 
through delay in transit, come dried out, as occasionally happens, soak the balls of 
earth and roots in water; if the stems have dried out, after soaking the ball, bury the 
whole plant in damp earth for several days. This treatment may put them in good 
condition while, if they are planted when dried out, there is more danger of their 
dying. 
Planting. When ready to plant, unpack the plants in a shaded place, protected 
from the wind. Keep the roots covered with damp burlap, moss or other material, 
until the actual moment of planting; spring winds are so drying that fatal damage may 
occur through a few moments of exposure. Do not set the plants too deep or too shal¬ 
low. If planted too deep, the stems will rot off; if too shallow, the plants will grow 
spindling, will dry out too soon, and high winds will cause them to sway, breaking the 
roots. It is a good rule to plant them just a little deeper than they formerly grew, 
with upper roots i or 2 inches under ground. Make the hole in which the plant is to 
be set large enough so that the roots can be spread out naturally. Plants with cramped 
roots never do so well as those that have plenty of root-room when planted. Use 
plenty of water when planting, to work the soil among the roots. As the soil is being 
thrown in about the roots, pour in a pailful of water. When the hole is almost full, pour 
in another pailful, then set the next plant. In three or four hours, when the surplus 
water has drained away, finish filling the hole with soil and tramp the earth firmly 
about the plant. The after-cultivation consists of frequently stirring the surface soil 
to maintain a dust mulch—^about once a week and as soon as possible after each rain 
will be sufficient. 
Unless they be tall or tree Roses, they are likely not to need staking. If the sun 
be warm, a shading for a few days may be beneficial, also a mulch about the roots. 
Mulching. The main object being to retain the moisture rather than to enrich 
the soil, cultivate the garden once a week up to the middle of July, to maintain a dust 
mulch; after that, a liberal covering of “long” cow- or horse-stable manure that will 
not heat will accomplish this purpose best. 
Winter Protection. Where the temperature gets below freezing, the less hardy 
Roses will require protection, and all of them will be the better for it, at least about 
the roots. Soon after the first frost (see calendar), having hilled up the soil around the 
stems, cover the Rose beds all over with a 3- or 4-inch layer of good heavy stable ma¬ 
nure, and over this a 6- or 12-inch layer of leaves, held in place by the most sightly ma¬ 
terial available. A 12-inch fence of poultry wire will keep the leaves in bounds nicely. 
If leaves are not available, straw, corn-fodder and even boxes put over the Roses to 
shed the rains, will protect from the cold biting winds and the alternate freezing and 
thawing of early spring sunshine and cold nights; but do not smother the Roses, for 
if too tightly covered they will die. Remove the covering gradually in the spring when 
danger from frost is past. 
THE ROSE-LOVER’S CALENDAR OF 
OPERATIONS, continued 
JUNE 
10 th. Begin to enrich the Teas and Hy¬ 
brid Teas with liquid manure. (You’ll 
soon see the result.) 
20tli to 30th. Now the Teas, Hybrid 
Teas and Climbers begin blooming in 
abundance. Cut your blossoms freely. 
Look out for mildew and apply the 
remedy. 
JULY 
1st. Keep the soil well stirred. 
4th. Gather all the flowers you can, it is 
not best for the plants to have them 
die on the bushes. You should now be 
reaping a full harvest from the Teas, 
Hybrid Teas, etc. 
10th. From now till autumn keep a sharp 
lookout for signs of fungoid troubles-)ij 
such as (i) Mildew, (2) Black Spot, or 
(3) Yellow Leaf, and apply Bordeaux 
mixture. If any aphis, use Rose nico¬ 
tine. 
20th. Now or earlier mulch your Roses 
with grass cuttings, old manure, or 
leaves. This will keep them blooming 
better. 
AUGUST 
30th. Teas and Hybrid Teas bring forth 
their “Fall Flower Show.” As soon as 
the buds form, remember that Bon 
Arbor or .manure water applied to 
the roots will help them to produce 
the blossoms you’ll be proud of. 
SEPTEMBER 
10 th. Some Hybrid Perpetuals bloom a 
second time. 
OCTOBER 
15th. Make ready your new beds for 
next year. 
NOVEMBER 
15th. After the first frost, begin covering 
the roots of your Roses with manure, 
and soon after this complete the pro¬ 
tecting of the more tender kinds. 
THANKSGIVING DAY 
All should be safely nestled in their 
winter beds. 
DECEMBER 
Read Dean Hole’s Book of the Rose. 
It is both interesting and instructive. 
Too deep Too shallow Just right Rlg^t and 
and bankea 
set -wrong for winter 
7 
