6 
GREEN'S NURSERY COMPANY, ROCHESTER, N. Y. 
How to Plant and Care for Trees 
WHEN TO PLANT. — Planting can be done any time the 
trees are dormant and the ground not frozen. Our trees 
become dormant about November first and remain so until 
about June first. We pack our trees in paper-lined boxes 
to keep the frost out and the moisture in, and are in a position 
to make shipments all winter long, from November first 
until June first. In most states however, the planting season 
extends in the fall, from November first until December 
fifteenth; in the spring from March first until June first. 
AT WHAT AGE TREES SHOULD BE PLANTED.— 
After nearly half a century’s experience in planting trees, we 
have learned that peach trees are best planted when one 
year old, and all other fruit trees, such as apples, pears, 
plums, etc., at two years old. This also applies to all bush 
fruits such as gooseberries, currants, etc., with the exception 
of raspberries, blackberries and strawberries, which arc best 
planted when one year old. It does not make any difference 
at what ag ornamental trees, shrubs, etc., are planted, pro¬ 
vided that care is taken not to plant overgrown trees. In 
this catalog we endeavor to offer to our customers only the 
best age and size trees to transplant, so that if our customers 
confine their selection to the offers in this catalog they may 
expect to obtain the very best results possible. In" orna¬ 
mental trees there is a great tendency to plant overgrown 
trees, and the largest size we offer represents the largest size 
trees we consider safe to transplant. Nothing is gained by 
planting a big overgrown tree. They take longer to get a 
hold on the soil and are often outstripped by the smaller 
trees. 
SOIL.—A rich loam is the best for fruit, but all soils 
may be made available by judicious treatment. Any land 
that will grow a good crop of wheat, com or potatoes is well 
adapted to fruit growing. We do not favor planting an 
orchard on freshly turned stiff meadow sod. Successful 
orchards have been thus started, but it is not good economy 
to plant a commercial orchard until the ground has been well 
prepared and the soil well rotted. If the soil is in sod ground 
it is best to plow it in July, August or September, and allow 
the sod to decay. Land so plowed will be in fine condition 
for planting the succeeding spring. Prepare by plowing at 
least seven inches deep, making the soil fine with a harrow, 
cultivator and roller, the same as for planting com or potatoes. 
Drainage on wet soil is necessary. Trees will not thrive on 
wet land. 
PREPARATIONS FOR PLANTING.—When the field 
is plowed and thoroughly fitted, and the soil made fine, 
square your field. No matter what the shape of the field is, 
always begin staking out on a true square. After the field 
has been squared up and stakes placed at each comer of the 
field, stretch a rope or strong wire from stake to stake around 
the outside, staking the distance the trees are to be planted 
along the rope or wire. After you have your rows staked 
out around the edge of your field, plow furrows across the 
field to each stake, and then cross plow from the other stakes. 
The cross points of these furrows will indicate where each 
tree should be planted, and the trees will then line up from 
each point of view. The cross plowing will save considerable 
work in excavating for each tree. When planting upon the 
lawn or grass plots, remove the sod for a diameter of four to 
five feet and keep this space well worked and free from weeds. 
Dig the holes deeper and larger than is necessary to admit all 
the roots spread out in their natural positions, say two feet 
square and twenty inches deep. Keep the surface and sub¬ 
soil separate. Do not throw away the sod, as this makes a 
very desirable mulch. 
WHAT TO DO WITH THE TREES WHEN THEY 
ARRIVE.—If possible remove the trees from the box or bale 
at once on arrival, and heel them in the ground as quickly 
as possible without any more exposure of roots to the air 
than absolutely necessary. The proper method of heeling 
in, is to dig a trench 15 to IS inches deep and loosen the lower 
band of a bundle of trees, wet the trees thoroughly, spread 
them out as much as the upper band will permit, place them 
in the trench and cover very carefully with earth. Press the 
earth down with the foot. Be sure and see that they are well 
covered and that there are no airholes around the roots. 
If properly heeled in, they can be kept for any length of time 
and planted at leisure. If they cannot be removed from the 
box at once, and the packing material gives evidence of being 
at all dried, apply water to both ends of the box where the 
roots are located, keeping the box meanwhile in as cool a 
place as possible. A cool cellar is a good place to keep the 
box of trees while waiting for the day of planting. If they 
are kept cool and moist they can be kept for several days in 
good condition without heeling in. If, by any chance, there are 
any indications of frost on the box or bale of trees when they 
arrive, bury the box or bale, with the trees in it, a foot or 
more deep. That is, covered with a foot of earth. If this 
is .not possible, put the box or bale in the cellar where the 
trees will thaw out slowly. You can leave them there for 
weeks untouched. After they are thawed out, the roots in 
each end of the box should be dampened from time to time. 
Frost does not injure trees, provided they are allowed to 
thaw out slowly. 
PRUNING.—Pruning should done either immediately 
before or after planting. This is the most essential work 
next to planting, and the lack of severe pruning is why many 
do not succeed. Do not be afraid that you are going to prune 
your trees too severe. These directions on pruning should be 
followed out absolutely to the letter. Peach trees require 
more severe pruning 
than anything else. 
Cut off all the 
branches close to the 
body of the tree, 
and cut back the 
main stem or leader 
to within two or three 
feet of the roots, 
leaving simply a 
stubby trunk two or 
three feet high with 
every branch re¬ 
moved. With all 
other fruit trees, such 
as apples, plums, 
pears, etc., remove 
all except three or 
four sturdy branches, 
endeavoring to have 
these branches come 
on four different sides 
of the tree to form a 
well shaped head. 
Then cut these bran¬ 
ches back to within 
five or sLx inches of 
the trunk, and cut 
the main stem or 
leader back so that 
it is just a little bit 
higher than the ends 
of the highest branch. 
Cut off all broken or 
bruised roots. 
At the left an apple tree properly pruned 
for planting. Leave three or four 
short stubs of branches to form a 
head. At the right a peach tree 
properly pruned, all the branches re¬ 
moved and the trunk cut back to 
within two or three feet of the roots. 
